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PostPosted: Sep 20th, '07, 10:38 
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You might want to add a couple more cycles during the night, and maybe space the cycles closer in the hottest part of the day.


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PostPosted: Sep 21st, '07, 02:13 
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OK I adjusted the cycles so that they are a bit longer. I also change the standpipes so the water drains much slower than before. This morning the plants looked very happy.


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PostPosted: Sep 24th, '07, 08:04 
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Ok added a third GB. I am not up to the 2:1 ratio yet but I am working on it. For the third GB I mixed red cinder and on the top I put white coral. I did this for 2 reasons. The cinder was rough on the veggies seemed too might to properly anchor the veggies(either that or user error).

I also took down the shade cloth and will see if more sun will help.

My veggies still are not growing well. The lettuce seems weak and slow growing. The chinese parsley is doing ok and the japanese spinach is ok. All are slow growing though. See the pictures. Any ideas?

Thanks all. THis is pretty fun.


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PostPosted: Sep 24th, '07, 08:05 
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More picssss


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PostPosted: Sep 24th, '07, 10:08 
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From what we can see from the pics, the plants have a healthy color just not over ambitious. I really think that system maturity will help you a lot. It does take some time for the system to produce all the usable nutes necessary.


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PostPosted: Sep 24th, '07, 10:08 
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don't forget the "P" word!


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PostPosted: Sep 24th, '07, 15:54 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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In that last pic, it looks like the water level is covering the media, you should have the water level ~1" below the gravel:

this decreases algae growth in your GB and it stops the problem of the roots always being submerged each cycle - this could be causing the retarded growth in your vegies


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PostPosted: Sep 24th, '07, 20:35 
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Agreed. Water level looks too high.

What are your nitrate levels?

Do you like basil? That's one of the easier plants to grow in the early stages. Very forgiving. I also agree that things improve as the system matures.


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PostPosted: Sep 24th, '07, 21:45 
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If the plants are small and start to dry out when the level is lower then just water them by hand a couple of times per day until their roots get low enough.


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PostPosted: Sep 25th, '07, 03:15 
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I think Dave Donley's byline is probably going to be the answer; "When in doubt, add more fish!" Right now I would be concerned with the amount of sunlight and the amount of heat your plants will be getting, it would be great if you had some sort of retractable awning over your system. (It would also help during rain to prevent excess dilution of your nutrient levels. It wouldn't help much in a typhoon, but what would?)
Kevin


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PostPosted: Sep 25th, '07, 03:45 
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OK guys thanks for all the suggestions. This is a cool forum.
Couple of answers, thoughts and questions.
1. My nitrate levels are at 100 ppm.
2. I am not sure whether to leave on the shade cloth or take it off. The area only gets about 5-6 hours of direct sunlight.
3. Ell, the algae and water level thing, can you explain it to me? I am curious why it retards growth. I will cut my standpipes tomorrow and lover the water level. Lucky thing I didn't glue them in!!

Right now I have about 7 koi, 2 comets, and 8 tilapia, and 2 crayfish. The crayfish are loving it in there. Healthiest crays I have ever seen nd they keep the bottom clean.

Thanks again guys. I am totally consumed by this hobby..


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PostPosted: Sep 25th, '07, 03:54 
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1. Good.
2. Off. Low light can also retard growth. (But watch for sunburn. Maybe just fold it back for a few hours at first and work up.)
3. Dropping the water level means that the surface of the gravel is not wet, and therefore algae cannot grow on the gravel. For the plants, higher water level means that the crowns are wetter than they might like, and that the roots may not be getting as much air/oxygen as they would like.


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PostPosted: Sep 25th, '07, 04:32 
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I have a flood and drain system. I would say the root are no submerged 60% of the time. Does this give them enough air/oxygen time? Or do the roots need air time while they are being flooded?

Thanks!!!


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PostPosted: Sep 25th, '07, 08:57 
HN, most of a plants oxygenating roots are within the top 1"-2" of the grow media.... the fine lateral roots you'll see in a root ball.....

Generally the 1" below your grave/media level is the preferred maximum level to flood to, so set your standpipe/siphon accordingly.

If the oxygenating roots are submerged for too long the plant will "wilt" (you'll see the same thing in soil based plants after long periods of heavy rain/flood) and eventually suffer root rot....

Think of a plant in a natural environment.... it rains, almost all of the water drains downward and is utilised by the lower big tap roots...

The lateral roots near the surface, although buried, are close to the surface to enable absorption of air.... if it rains for too long a period or floods, these roots are submerged and the plant can't take up oxygen

Then, as suggested there's also the problem of algael growth on the surface if you flood too high.... again any growth covering the surface of your grow media will deprive the fine oxygenating roots.


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PostPosted: Sep 25th, '07, 09:19 
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Thanks rupert, excellent explanation. That explains why my plants are wilting so much. I thought it was the opposite, the plants we're getting enough water. Interesting... I will make the adjustment tomorrow!

HN


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