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PostPosted: Feb 23rd, '19, 04:23 

Joined: Feb 23rd, '19, 04:18
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Hello! I am new to aquaponics and while research has led me so far I am a little confused on the subject of plumbing and such. I have found two DIY systems I like but I am not sure which to choose/build off of. I would like to have a 40 gallon stock tank with fancy goldfish.
http://blog.shanghaiaquaponics.com/2013 ... r-balcony/
http://aquaponics-system.com/336-55-gal ... cs-system/
Any feedback or advice is very welcome!
Thanks! -Max


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PostPosted: Feb 24th, '19, 07:36 
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Hi Max, welcome to the forum.
Have you looked through the forums members systems? You'll find pretty much every system set up conceivable.
viewforum.php?f=18


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PostPosted: Feb 24th, '19, 11:04 

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skeggley wrote:
Hi Max, welcome to the forum.
Have you looked through the forums members systems? You'll find pretty much every system set up conceivable.
viewforum.php?f=18

I can't believe I hadn't seen that thread before. I checked it out and it seems to be a literal gold mine of systems and lots of pictures which I love! But now I have so many more ideas on what I could do for my future system, how will I ever decide? :-P
Thanks! -Max


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PostPosted: Feb 25th, '19, 00:08 

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I don't really want to start another thread for this question. Could vinyl wading pools be used for aquaponics? I found a 89 gallon one I really like. I'm just not sure how big of a grow bed I would need to support that size tank. I have seen someone mention a 2:1 ratio?


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PostPosted: Feb 25th, '19, 02:45 
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Don't be concerned about the ratio, it's really about fish stocking level for the amount of filtration provided. The more filtration the more fish (of course the fish do need space as well). Many people use closer to a 1 to 1 ratio. The grow beds are providing the filtration so the more grow bed volume you have the more filtration you have and the more fish you can have.

Some people have used vinyl liners and/or vinyl pools and they will work. Some are sold as food grade and others aren't - you'll have to decide what's acceptable in your case.


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PostPosted: Feb 25th, '19, 10:21 

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Oh, that makes sense. Just stock fish lighter for smaller grow beds. I wouldn't even know how to begin plumbing something like that. I understand the basics of how water gets into the bed, but I'm not as sure about the draining part. I'm probably just over thinking the whole thing like I usually do.


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PostPosted: Feb 25th, '19, 22:31 
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Have you read the IBC of aquaponics?
http://ibcofaquaponics.com/
Great place to start.


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PostPosted: Feb 26th, '19, 03:49 

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I think I understand the basics of a constant flood system, and it seems so simple. I feel a bit dim now :-P The pump "pumps" water into the grow bed. The (I believe it is called a Bell Siphon?) is solid for the first bit so that water is at a constant level than there at holes to allow water to drain when it reaches past the desired level. Am I actually understanding or have I completely misunderstood? Because if it really is that simple I could have a system together in no time. :)


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PostPosted: Feb 26th, '19, 05:10 
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it is that simple! However...

the pipe in the grow bed through which the water over-flows is not a bell siphon, its a simple standpipe.

The bell siphon is what people use to create a flood and drain cycle with the pump running constantly: The water fills to the overflow point, then a siphon effect is created within the piping which drains all of the water out of the grow-bed, when the water is all gone and air enters the pipe, the siphon effect is broken and the water level starts to rise again... and so the cycle continues.

Flood and drain systems can also be configured with a pump on a timer.

Constant flood is indeed simpler to set up, but there can be advantages to a flood and drain system, the main one being that all the regular flow of all the water through the grow bed is guaranteed, whereas in constant flow you have the possibility of water taking the "fastest route", and reduced flow or even stagnant areas in the grow bed, the corners etc. However, plumbing the inflow and outflow of the bed intelligently can mitigate against this.


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PostPosted: Feb 26th, '19, 19:16 
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Hi Max,

all of the above plus take a look at the FAO "Small-scale aquaponic food production. "
it is a pdf so if you google "FAO small scale aquaponic" it will come up.
ideally select the PDF from the FAO site - http://www.fao.org/3/a-i4021e.pdf if it works, else a few there.

most new people make the mistake of over-planning an advanced system before they have ever had a simple one, we see it here time and time again. your first system will teach you a lot and you can add-to and re-use everything.

Goldfish are a very good choice - they are hardy and will do fine in most situations even when you make a mistake.

Just go with your original idea to start with and base it on a small setup like the IBCofAquaponics (link at the top right, watch the video). The FAO publication will show you how that type of system can evolve. Just about any container can be made to work and as you are not eating the fish things are not quite as bad for having to choose food grade (definitely pay a bit more and go with UV stable though).

But first off build something and get it running, else you will still be planning in 12 months !!

If you are worried about plumbing etc then the simplest system is a pond pump in the fish tank running up to a grow bed with the grow bed overflowing back in to the fish tank (ala the IBCofAquaponics) . You don't need a siphon and with goldfish can easily use a timer as the risk is not so great if the pump stops for a bit provided you do not have too many fish - running 1 hour on 1 hour off, or few hours on few hours off will be fine and save a bit of electricity.

The cost of a DIY aquaponics setup is cheaper than many pond filter systems on the market and much easier to manage - you don't have to empty or flush it out !!

Once you have a system then experiment and begin planning your bigger system, meanwhile you are learning and getting experience. Don't be ambitious with your veg, just go with hardy leaf veg to begin with. Cos lettuce and asian greens, silverbeet etc are all very easy to grow and don't need the nutrients of an established system. Avoid strawberries and tomatoes and fancy stuff in your first setup KISS - keep it simple...

>> Because if it really is that simple I could have a system together in no time

yep - you got it. It only becomes hard when you start trying to process too many ideas and want an advanced system before you know what you are doing. As above watch the IBCofAquaponics video for how easy it can be.

as you are in the US - search on the forum here for 'Rubbermaid'. These tubs can be easily brought and make good containers for starter systems. There are a few examples on this forum.


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '19, 04:45 

Joined: Feb 23rd, '19, 04:18
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Okay, so some more questions. I know that the system has to be run before adding fish but do I need to add anything to the water? Since the fish wouldnt be there to produce waste. Also would it be okay for me to draw up my idea and post it here for feedback? Also how can I combat "stagnat" areas with a constant flow system?


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '19, 10:49 
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You need a source of Ammonia and a Ammonia test kit (Part of a multi test kit like a "API" Kit from a Aquarium supplies pet store , or ebay ect ect )

I have used ammonia sulphate (common lawn fertilizer) only need a tiny bit , use the rest on your garden , lots of sources of ammonia available , some have additives avoid these.

Put in enough Ammonia to bring the test kit result up to (.5 - 1 ppm) too much ammonia will form a anti bacterial situation which will prevent the bacteria we need forming , so its a case of more is NOT better.

Then leave system alone (this is the hard bit) until all the ammonia has been converted to Nitrate (test kit) , can be weeks to months depending on temperature / Ph .

Start a Thread in the "Members Systems" in the forum to record your build an discussion and we love photos

To combat stagnant areas have a pipe around the edge of your growbeds with multiple outlets and put your drain in the middle or build long narrow growbeds (two plants wide) with entry one end and drain the other , Or do as suggested run on a timer with a small drain hole at the base of your growbed outlet , so growbed slowly drains while pump is switched off , (need storage in fish tank / sump to handle this water) many variables.

Have fun


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '19, 11:06 
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> Okay, so some more questions. I know that the system has to be run before adding fish but do I need to add anything to the water?

no, you dont need to add any aquarium starter bacteria etc.
The bacteria will develop naturally over 4-6 weeks. If you have a pond or aquarium *that you know is disease/parasite free* you can add a small amount of that water (pint or so), but it doesn't significantly shorten the full cycling period.
With goldfish you can run with fish after a week or so of running the system but only a couple. definitely not at full stocking levels.

>> Since the fish wouldnt be there to produce waste.
I would simply get some plants in and use a organic liquid fertiliser with added nitrogen as urea.
various options but most use the seaweed based ones and maybe a touch of fish based.
This way the plants get everything they need.
The Australian brands are a bit different so saying Seasol Powerfeed & Charlie Carp is not really helpful.
You have your US equivalents at Lowes and Walmart.

If you use the right plants (see earlier post) then plants will establish as the bacteria establishes, else you simply end up with nitrates and no way to use them.

personally I wouldn't use ammonia sulphate or straight ammonia or pee-ponics but some do.
You need the plants in place so I would work towards getting them going strong from beginning.
plus you actually get something from your system to eat much quicker (more rewarding IMO)

>> Also how can I combat "stagnant" areas with a constant flow system?
having more than one outlet pipe onto the grow bed, or a perimeter pipe or a pipe with holes.
Flushing the system, even if less frequent than a Flood&Drain.
having the standpipe (outlet pipe) in the centre or opposite corner (depends on layout).

>> Also would it be okay for me to draw up my idea and post it here for feedback?
you can keep using this thread or start a new thread in the members area as Terra suggests.
doesn't really matter. May be easy to keep using this thread for questions till you actually build a system.


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '19, 22:22 

Joined: Feb 23rd, '19, 04:18
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Great! I'll just keep posting here until I'm sure of my plan, so that I dont start a whole mess of threads.


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