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PostPosted: Jul 24th, '16, 04:04 
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scotty435 wrote:
What are you using to test the pH, that pH seems awfully low?


I was soaking the media in vinegar as a means to see if bubbles were being generated to indicate that something is breaking down that could be buffering a change in PH when I use a normal reducer.

(I do not know the correct chemistry vernacular if the above is not clear)

As for what I'm testing with, Xpert Omatic


Now for another problem, wish the states would get on board with the metric system, but here is my problem.........

I thought my IBC tank (Schutz) would be a 2" connection and I could just get a female adapter and hook it on to the ball valve and start plumbing with schedule 40. Turns out, the sizing is actually a 2 1/8 and uses the BSP thread instead of the States pipe thread of NPT.

Has anyone conquered this problem and found a vendor in the states that supplies such a thing?

THis is what I saw in the back of a pick up for hauling water in the Colorado the other day,
Image

Trying to achieve something like this so I can feed my rff filter/system via gravity (If possible). Doing away with the SLO in the IBC and have the water exit right from the ball valve into the RFF. I saw this in one of the many videos I watched last night and seems sound to my way of thinking.

If not, please advise.

Thanks,
Adam


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PostPosted: Jul 25th, '16, 03:40 
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So, after educating myself on the different types of pipe threads, I decided to try something off my water wagon. The end of the ball valve is similar to that what is used for my quick connect/disconnect for my hydrant hose. Slapped it on this morning, and happy to report that I do not see any leaks.

Image
Image

The overall length from the valve body to the end of the spout was 49.03mm and that is exactly what I had for the inside measurement of the quick disconnect coupler.

So it is off to Tractor supply on Wednesday to grab the necessary quick disconnect fittings and adapters to make up another 20' section of fill hose and grab the additional adapters to make up the connections to the IBC so I can plumb the rest of the system with PVC and finally start building again.

But in the meantime, I'll prime the soffit while getting dived bombed because of my interrupting the feeding schedule and repair a section of wood fence that the Elk decided to knock down this past winter.

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Adam


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PostPosted: Jul 27th, '16, 02:25 
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finally tracked down a source for 55 Gallon that is reasonably priced to use for filters and such. Santa Fe, NM had FG barrells for 75 Each (Then buy the misc kits to convert to a rain barrell, or drop 175.00 and they will do it for you....... :think: could be a way for me to generate income to fund the aquaponic build)

Was about to drive back home to Kansas and pickup a full trailer load from my friend for the cost of fuel, but maybe another time....


Larger greenhouses, what have you done to cheaply heat during the winter months? I am going to close in the sides and add an additional layer of film to create airgap, but thinking about either putting a pot belly pig stove, or coming up with a way to vent a 55 gallon drum and burn some of the wood on the property as a fuel source?

Thanks,
Adam


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PostPosted: Jul 27th, '16, 07:12 

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I just bought 3 food grade IBC tanks in Zuni for $400. if your in West NM you might want to contact my source if you want more than 1 or 2.


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PostPosted: Jul 27th, '16, 09:00 
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Going to Abq tomorrow. Material/grocery run and pick up barrels. I actually found someone who was selling 275G IBC in Santa Fe for 100/EA and cleaned out the remaining inventory back in June. I just wanted something more solid than a Brute 32 gallon trash can for my filter and whatever future use I come up with.

After tomorrow, phase two starts for the expansion.

Many thanks for the suggestion and welcome to the madness, errrr uh, i mean forum.

Adam


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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '16, 07:34 
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Picked up pond liner for DWC bed and all of the remaining quick disconnect to attach to the IBC as well as 8 55 gallon barrels. Start building phase two in the immediate future. .

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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '16, 19:53 
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BroHay wrote:
scotty435 wrote:
What are you using to test the pH, that pH seems awfully low?


I was soaking the media in vinegar as a means to see if bubbles were being generated to indicate that something is breaking down that could be buffering a change in PH when I use a normal reducer.

(I do not know the correct chemistry vernacular if the above is not clear)

As for what I'm testing with, Xpert Omatic


Now for another problem, wish the states would get on board with the metric system, but here is my problem.........

I thought my IBC tank (Schutz) would be a 2" connection and I could just get a female adapter and hook it on to the ball valve and start plumbing with schedule 40. Turns out, the sizing is actually a 2 1/8 and uses the BSP thread instead of the States pipe thread of NPT.

Has anyone conquered this problem and found a vendor in the states that supplies such a thing?

THis is what I saw in the back of a pick up for hauling water in the Colorado the other day,
Image

Trying to achieve something like this so I can feed my rff filter/system via gravity (If possible). Doing away with the SLO in the IBC and have the water exit right from the ball valve into the RFF. I saw this in one of the many videos I watched last night and seems sound to my way of thinking.

If not, please advise.

Thanks,
Adam

I see you already have your adapter sorted. One fix I was shown was to simply put a short piece of automotive coolant hose in between what is there and what you want.


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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '16, 19:59 
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What type of pump for aeration is typically used for DWC beds by forum members? (which I am sure will lead to others about ways to plumb)

I have always been of the mindset of "bigger is better" (if funds allow for you always have a need for more) but trying to think about down the road when the system might be operated on solar.

I am going to just jump into the build pretty sure the mechanics are sound, still have a waaaaaays to go on all the finer details - so ill still operate under the "bigger is better" mentality and maybe get smarter in my older age.

Thanks,
Adam


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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '16, 20:09 
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Quote:
I am going to just jump into the build pretty sure the mechanics are sound, still have a waaaaaays to go on all the finer details - so ill still operate under the "bigger is better" mentality and maybe get smarter in my older age.

Ha, wishful thinking gives us hope.


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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '16, 20:10 
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Boss,

I was in Ace the other day and looking right at those rubber boot connectors for ABS pipe and did not even occur to me as a solution. I am not a plumber, BUT becoming better everyday.

I was trying to get a new hose made up to draw water from the irrigation ditch for another project and completely overlooked a simpler solution.

Now you are making me gun shy to jump on phase two to think about what I am actually doing. (nah, still goimg to go ahead later today, so much for being smarter in my approach.....)

Thanks,
Adam


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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '16, 20:35 
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Haha, yep, I fall back on a head strong approach all the time. I often ask a question, to which I don't have patience to wait for the answer to, shush. :roll: I still get educated, just in a retroactive style. :)


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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '16, 20:36 
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boss wrote:
Has anyone conquered this problem and found a vendor in the states that supplies such a thing?


37 USA British Threaded Pipe Fittings Suppliers

http://www.thomasnet.com/products/british-threaded-pipe-fittings-95929725-1.html


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PostPosted: Jul 29th, '16, 01:23 
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So to try and make a more methodical approach to the build, the following is the general intent for the existing/new system addition.

let's call this AP Build 1.0

Image

New System

IBC will not be cut down (water height 4-5" from top)
RFF is 55 gallon poly drum (gravity fed from 2" valve on tank)
DWC bed is 4x8x1 (starting with a gravity fed return to the fish tank) **probably problem area**

I'll have to do a bit more thinking about if I want to try and keep the systems separate and add a MBBF (which will probably be done in the future anyway) or tie the systems together using the 1 1/2 (40mm) and take advantage of the established bacteria in the existing GB to get things going while I still educate myself (which is probably the way I'm going to go for now)

Existing System FT is 100 Gallon (probabably 85 at operating height) stock tank with sump being same make and around 15-25 gallons @ all times. Grow Beds are 27 gallon storage bins from HD/Lowes filled with 3/8 pea gravel and potentially hold 6 gallons of water before siphon kicks in.

There was a great post about pipe sizing/restrictions that I need to find again, but not quite sure if I understand all the numbers that are produced. Simpler way (for me) will be to get things running and then time a 5 gallon bucket fill to determine flow rates. However, looking to get minimum of x1 turnover/hour.

In my existing system (restricted with valves) as it is running gives me just over 200 gallons/hour. Pump is rated 750 gallons @ 0' head and wide open (as chart determines with roughly 36" head pressure can do around 623GPH)

I'll re-do the existing swirl filter to an RFF and use the information from dasboot on construction.

Let the critique begin.......

Thanks,
Adam


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PostPosted: Jul 30th, '16, 05:11 
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measure twice, cut once -- or mark the wrong measurement, cut, and then stitch back together to try again. (was not looking for a reason to break out more tools) :oops:
Image

seedlings ready to go, but my system is not up and running
Image

Hurry up and build it.
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Just a cool shot I took @ Just Sprinklers when I was picking up the liner for the DWC bed.
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PostPosted: Jul 30th, '16, 11:29 
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In case anybody was wondering, on Schutz IBC tanks, gator lock coupling (got mine @ Tractor Supply) clamps on to the valve and can take a bushing to then continue on in PVC and did not leak on initial test.

The valve body on the inside (with a little manipulation of the tank bottom) allows 40mm pipe to be inserted into the back end (about 20mm) so one can plumb without having to go up/over/through side to feed whatever down the line.

I am still going to try out the bottom directly and see what happens when I simulate a power outage as far as if water keeps feeding the system woth no air gap to break and possible flood over the sump capacity.

Too many things going on today, but version AP Build 2.0 is sketched and most parts are already here so I do not have to go on a parts run.

Hopefully i can get something done tomorrow.

Adam


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