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PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '16, 23:17 
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mwdesign wrote:
The wicking bed idea is a no go. I have no more space!


I know what that's like.

I'm going to reply on Brian's question about this here, my apologies for the brief hijack Felix.

-------

Brian, I'm not sure about using the soak hose, you need a way to stop the flow otherwise it will just keep going and the sump will keep topping up. I like the idea if you can figure out how to automate it. Make sure that the sump tank can't be sucked dry (probably just place the outlet from the sump well off the bottom).

I'm pretty far along with setting up two large wicking beds and I plan on connecting them to the fish tank of my AP setup (either directly or via a reservoir). I'll be using mini float valves (kerrick valves) that I already have but vertical float valves might be better since they would take less space. Basically when the float valve is activated the wicking bed reservoir will refill. I just need to be sure the float valve shuts off before the wicking bed reservoir starts overflowing.


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PostPosted: Apr 26th, '16, 00:23 
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Andrew, would it be ok if we flush the RFF weekly, rather than daily?


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PostPosted: May 4th, '16, 18:22 
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mwdesign wrote:
Andrew, would it be ok if we flush the RFF weekly, rather than daily?


Please excuse the long delay in replying,just been so busy and on a computer in 40c temps ain't going to happen.
Adjustable outlet is nothing more that a 9 inch funnel very carefully cut to be a tight slid fit over the 3inch outlet pipe,I have used this on all my swirls and RFFs,being a bigger diameter it helps to reduce wier loading,you can adjust the flow out to a certain extent and for me at cleaning I just slid it up and stop the flow,no need to turn off the pump,ah to anyone else reading this I have surface drains which take up the flow,this funnel has been on the pipe for months,no sign of breakage or wear,if I had the room I would use a bigger funnel again,in my thread is pics of this set up,don't where though.
RFF cleaning,this is just my opinion,but I think it's wrong to clean once per week,we use the RFF to quickly and efficiently remove solids from the system water,why then would you leave it do whatever in the bottom of the RFF. Secondly you need to run an efficient MT,not quite so efficient with only weekly intakes of solids.
For me once a day is about right for a flat bottom tank,if I had a cone bottom I would dump twice per day,less water more shxxt,this goes into the MT where clean water is decant back into the system daily.
For me this really works,adding my MT was like putting a V8 into a town car,I really don't know why it took me two years to figure this out,like wood vinegar without the MT I would pack up,sorry for the ramblings,long day couple of beers.


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PostPosted: Jul 27th, '16, 01:53 
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Hi everyone. I had put my project on hold, hoping I could visit Chatterson's farm on my upcoming trip to Florida, and get more ideas. Unfortunately he won't allow it, so I guess I'm back to the drawing board. I've been giving a lot of thought to the construction of the DWC troughs, and instead of building some 24' x 4' troughs out of blocks and pond liner, I'm thinking about making multiple 4'x8'x2'deep DWC's, using 3/4" PVC, glued with 5200 and screwed, and then MAYBE putting about a few inches of fiberglass cloth at the seams. I plan to bury these, leaving just 3 or 4 inches out of the ground- deep enough to prevent any possible blowouts like Andrew suffered the other day, but above ground enough so it doesn't flood in the event we get some serious rain... which are rarely seen in my house. More plumbing, more work, but I could shut down any one DWC for maintenance, without affecting the others (planing on 9 total) Any thoughts?


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PostPosted: Jul 27th, '16, 16:20 
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Fiberglass cloth along the seams of what :? . It's not clear what you'll be using as a liner? When I think 3/4 inch PVC I think pipes but maybe this isn't what you mean?


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PostPosted: Jul 27th, '16, 18:52 
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Hi Scoty. Sorry, I meant 3/4" pvc sheet like Sintra or similar.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '16, 13:43 
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Seems like it could work :? I think you might be better off trying a test run of this rather than asking because I don't think anyone's done this - I think it will work, I'm not sure about fiberglass and epoxy and how they react to PVC but they do work for waterproofing and strengthening boats. You might also be able to do the same sort of thing using extruded polystyrene sheets along with epoxy and fiberglass. The epoxy might wind up being pretty pricey although I'm not certain about this but check it before you go this route. If you try either of these let us know how it works out.


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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '16, 18:38 
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I hear you about the boats. I got the idea from a boat builder friend. I wasnt planning on using epoxy though. West systems is over $100 a gallon here. I plan to use polyester resin. Thanks! I'll post pics!


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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '16, 23:17 
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Yikes, I'm not sure how much different it is here but that's definitely an expensive item. Try a small test panel and joint with the polyester before you fully commit :thumbright: .


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PostPosted: Jan 31st, '17, 04:43 
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Hi everyone! Here's what happening in My back yard.

We decided to go with a Muzza style system... well, sort of. My buddy José from Performance Marine is welding some 2"x2" and 1"x2" pipes to build a couple DWCs 49.5"x20'x18" (interior dimensions). The interior will be lined with either 3/4" plywood or PVC sheets. Most likely pvc, as although it's double the price, I don't have to paint it and it'll probably last much longer. I'm going to test using banner material as a liner, as I can get it cheap. I will most likely paint this tube frame a bright blue, as on the DWCs from Aquaponics No Ka Oi in Hawaii. For filtration, as of right now the plan is to do a string of Andrew's bottle cap filters, preceded by an RFF with a cone bottom my friends from Island Marine are building from my 6' diameter fiberglass tank. No pics on the latter, as it's currently just laying in their shop.

On a sad note, Mac the lizard passed away.


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Jose from Performance Marine. If you're in Puerto Rico and need inboard transmission work, he's your guy.

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Welding the base of the DWCs

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Laying out the DWCs to mark their placement.


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PostPosted: Jan 31st, '17, 06:49 
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Sorry about Mac :support: .

Looks like Jose did a great job on the frames and got a lot done :thumbright: . He might be the go to guy for welding up grow bed frames as well.


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PostPosted: Jan 31st, '17, 06:52 
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Yeap. Theyre coming back on Wednesday to finish the job! I should hear from my wife about my destroying her yard by midday!


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PostPosted: Jan 31st, '17, 15:42 
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mwdesign wrote:
I should hear from my wife about my destroying her yard by midday!


Ya really think it's going to take her that long Felix :wink:


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PostPosted: Jan 31st, '17, 18:06 
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I used Bote-Cote epoxy resin and woven fibre glass cloth to repair a 20 year old PVC sewer pipe - no problem just sanded the surface filled the cracks and applied the GRP. You might enquire about vinyl ester resin if the poly ester eats into the pvc.

Pete.


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PostPosted: Jan 31st, '17, 18:27 
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That's going to be a huge DWC bed, nicely done!


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