Backyard Aquaponics
A place to discuss aquaponics

I have learned so much from the guys here. From my first IBC setup which was a direct clone of the system shown in the IBC of AquaPonics.

I am gathering the supplies needed for a vary large setup, large by my standards anyhow, and filtration is one of the things I am looking into.

Ammonia is still off the charts. Still have 2 small shiners alive in the ft but still no sign of the first one I added.

Had to add a couple gallons to top my sump up today, which makes about 8-10 gallons I've added due to evaporation since setting up. That's a lot less than I've used in my dirt garden in the same time period which is about 3 gallons per day on average. I'm really excited to get more gb's added so I can get away from using dirt so much.

I've been gardening in the same bed without any solarization for about 8yrs and have a couple problems which have gotten pretty unmanagable.

1. Phyloxera (winged root aphids)
2. TMV (tobacco mosaic virus)
3. Fusarium

I'm hoping to eradicate all three and be able to prevent them from spreading to the aquaponics system but idk how succesfull I'll be as all three are near impossible to eliminate. One of the biggest problems is that I have perenials in the beds which I'd like to save.

If anybody has any advice about how to deal with these it would be greatly appreciated as I'm at a loss for ideas.

I have a few plants which are showing signs of tmv which I'm going to destroy today but I have already done this a couple times and it keeps showing up the next time I plant seed, even in brand new sterile seed mix. I'm convinced that the phyloxera are spreading the tmv from infected soil to the new seedlings. Them or some other bug that is escaping my attention.

I downloaded a list of resistant tomato varieties but they are only one of the effected crops. I did find one study which involved dipping rooted cutting of grape which were infected with phyloxera in hot water for a period of time but that still leaves them in the soil and surrounding area.

Predatory bugs would be my favorite option but I don't know what would feed on the aphids in the soil.

I too am planning a large system to build later this year, if all goes well hoping for a 5000sq ft greenhouse to work in. I'm only really building this small system as proof of concept for my financier and as a practical learning tool before setting up a bigger system.

I have seen all the proof I need to convince me that aquaponics is the way we should be growing food around the world. Now I'm working on convincing everybody I know of the same. Having a system in my front yard has been a great way to start conversations about it

THose are some nasty problems to have. I agree, all of my AP setups use less water than one of my 4x8 raised beds.

It is insane how much more efficient AP is over dirt farming. Eventually, I believe AP will become the standard in food production. However, there are many hurdles to jump over, including big agriculture, companies like Monsanto, and complete ignorance.

Are you growing grapes in the area where you have Phyloxera problems? If so what rootstock are they on?

Don't transfer any of the plants from that area into the AP. The only way you might get away with something like this is if the area they are in doesn't recirculate back to the AP system (even that's a stretch with viral problems like TMV).

I would try mixing in a good portion of vermicompost to the location where you're having fusarium problems. Some of the species in vermicompost are antagonists to Fusarium oxysporum. I wouldn't take any soil from this area to use anywhere else though. I probably would also place a vermicompost tower/bucket into the soil there. The idea is to put the items you want composted in the bucket with the worms. The worms move in and out through underground holes in the bucket and fertilize the soil. In the process they should be innoculating the soil with more of the antagonistic organisms.

I'm not 100% that they are phylloxera anymore because they're attacking my tomatoes more than anything else. I only have one grape plant and I only got it last year and it was clean at the time I dug it up. The aphids I have, have mostly been an issue with the tomatoes. Possibly from growing them in the same 20g pots for 4yr without rotating crops or solarization. I've got them in my garage now, where I start all my seeds. Garage is really a mess other than the small area where my seed stuff is so I don't even know how effective a bug bomb would be if I were to go that route (I hate the thought).

The tmv is only affecting the tomato also and not real bad until flowering/fruiting time. I'll get my tea brewer set up today and get a batch started. I've been pre-occupied with the aquaponics stuff and not paying enough attention to my raised beds.

I have'nt checked my water yet today but I tested for nitrites yesterday and they are spiking now. Pulled a dead fish out of the ft (explains the ammonia source since I only put one dose in myself.

I sprinkled "Bio-Live" fertilizer around the bases of all the seedlings in the gb's hoping to increase the bio variety. I'm wondering if that didn't maybe jump start things a little bit. Lots of good beneficials in it.

As far as the worm tea goes, I'm affraid the aphids may have infected my worm bin. Do you think this could be a possibility? I've read they feed on fungus and roots/ every other plant part.

I can't tell you how much I appreciate all your help, Scotty.

Just tested.
Ammonia- 8+
Nitrite- 10+
Nitrate- 20
TH-75
Alk- apr 60
PH-7
Most of the plants look like they're happy, except the mystard and brussels sprouts. New growth on the mustard is cupping and yellowing between the veins. Brussels sprouts look similar but without the cupping.
Zinc defficiency maybe?

I saw a chart on here some where that showed different plants and what various deficiencies look like. Ill see if i can dig it up. It does seem like yellowing between the veins was one of the elements Zinc, manganese, magnesium. i really liked that chart, i should have saved it.

Sounds like an Iron deficiency. Iron isn't mobile within the plant so it shows up in the new leaves first. Not sure about the cupping with the brussel sprouts, I think it may be normal - the yellowing isn't though. If you can post a pic showing the cupping I can probably tell you if it's normal.

As far as the aphids are concerned, check for ants around the grow beds. Ants farm aphids so if you can keep the ants out of the grow beds that helps a lot.

Not all grapes have the same susceptibility to phyloxera so make sure you're plant is grafted onto resistant root stock on the one you do have (this will help with the root form at least). I haven't found anything indicating that phyloxera is a problem on tomatoes or that they are farmed by ants. If the insects on the tomatoes are aphids (and I think they probably are) then they'll be easier to control. Take a look around for the garlic chili spray and try that for aphids (FYI - it doesn't always work). I'm sure some others here have dealt with aphids and they'll probably give you a few suggestions as well.



You may have some in the compost bin but this has not been a problem for me. I usually bury fresh material added to the vermicompost pile and I'll throw aphid infested plants there so you'd think I'd have a bunch but I don't. Even if you do have some they probably aren't going to survive the process of making compost tea. This is a pretty good video for making compost tea using regular compost and some other ingredients https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEQIxt3vIgg. I probably would just aerate instead of using Hydrogen peroxide like he does but many organisms have the enzyme catalase which breaks down hydrogen peroxide and releases the oxygen from it.

Not surprised that you found a dead fish. The dead fish probably upped the ammonia and nitrite but there may have been a problem already . Sounds like you're down to one fish. With the ammonia and nitrite levels you currently have I'd expect the fish to die. You can reduce the effect of the nitrites by adding un-iodized salt that doesn't have any caking agents. 1ppt is what I normally recommend. The salt also helps the fish with stress and building a slime coat.

This probably doesn't answer everything but it should help.

This mornings test results
Ammonia- 4
Nitrate- 40
Nitrite- 10+
TH- aprox 60
Alk- 40
PH- 6.8

Got a couple pics of the cupping on the mustard. Found a winged aphid on one in the process. I'll have to learn how to share them this eve when I've got more time.

Egg shells work for raising alkalinity, don't they? Any idea how much I should use? I've been too busy the past couple days to google everything like I would normally do.

I made some strong pepper garlic spray with a lil Dr Bronners soap added a week or so ago. I'll still need to try to keep it out of the water, correct?

The more I look at my tomatoes that're outside, the more I think they're just rootbound and not being attacked by fusarium.

Planning to attempt a hot water drench on the ?phylloxera infected plants tonight. Hopefully that's all I'll need to do but if they really are phylloxera it may come down to nuking the whole house with pyrethrins and sterilizing all the infected soil, ugh..

Look forward to seeing the pictures . Here's a tutorial written by Tallman that might help you get it figured - http://www.backyardaquaponics.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=21754



Get a paint strainer bag and break up the eggshells a bit and put them into the bag (you want the shell intact enough that they won't go through the mesh (get a fine mesh bag)). I'd do this soon (I see your alkalinity is falling). Place this under a faucet or in the sump tank of your system. If the pH starts going too high (7.2 or above) just remove the bag and set it aside until you need it again. You probably won't need to pull this out all that often and might even need something stronger to pull the pH up every once in a while.

Yes, try to keep the spray out of the water (you want to give the plants a good wetting on top of and beneath the leaves and along the stem though). Hope you used a very small amount of soap - I'm not familiar with that particular one. I usually put a drop of dawn dishwashing liquid in as a spreader/sticker agent - you don't want to get carried away with the soap/detergent since it can affect the fish and bacteria and you really don't need much.

Are you in a wine growing region? I'm thinking the phyloxera may just come right back if the grape growers aren't doing their part and there really isn't a good treatment for this. Not trying to discourage you from trying the hot water drench just have realistic expectations on the outcome. I'd like to see some pictures of these critters if you can pull it off . I think because of the water in AP that you won't have much trouble with the root version in AP (assuming you have any phyloxera host plants in the AP at all).

Cheers

Test results today
Skipped ammonia today
Nitrate between 40-80
Nitrite 5
TH 75
Alk between 0-40
PH 6.2

I put about a half cup of crushed and pan toasted egg shells this morning before leaving for work. These test results are from this evening and show no improvement over the test this morning.

Should I do a partial water change maybe? I'd be replacing it with fresh rain water which is super soft so no buffering capacity but I do have access to well water with high calcium and iron. Could using this well water help the possible iron deficiency?

I need to get a photo editor for my phone which will resize my pics. My phone doesn't have the option to set the resolution low enough. Plants are growing and seeds are sprouting but I'm still noticing the yellow between the veins on the new growth. I noticed one couliflower is lagging behind the others and looks wilted.

I pulled a collard that had it's center chewed out by a slug and I replaced it with a jalepeno. I also added a green bell, orange bell, poblano chile and a ?pepper which lost its tag. I dunked the roots in water to rinse the dirt away as much as possible but ended with a very small amount of soil remaining on each transplant. I also scattered some swiss chard seed and shuffled the rocks a bit to settle them in.

My scoria has settled in a bit since I filled it and I've been adding a bit more each day when I notice wet areas on the surface.

Got a lot of little flies and/or gnats buzzing around the gb. They are attracted to the bio-live. I've been trying to cover it up as much as possible but I'm thinking mosquito dunks are going on my to do list tomorrow. Any recommendations?

Tough call on whether to do a water change or change the pH using a buffer. The problem is either way can raise the pH and cause the ammonia to become more toxic. I'm thinking the fish is a goner anyway but if he's still in there and you have another tank it might be best to remove him while you get things under control.

It takes a while for the calcium carbonate to dissolve and you may need something else to bring the buffering capacity up a bit before that. Potassium bicarbonate would probably be what I'd use (Potassium carbonate would also work). You can find these at wine shops, I can't tell you how much, everyone's system is a bit different. You can try it on a smaller volume and this will give you an idea of how much to use on your system. These add potassium (which is often deficient in AP systems) as well as carbonates for buffering capacity.

The well water might work but I doubt the iron will be in the right form for plants to use. Sometimes well water can be supersaturated with carbon dioxide and can actually kill the fish. I don't know if this is a problem around here - kind of doubt it but you can aerate the water and check the pH before you use it, if you decide to. You might be able to use the well to keep the system water temp down in the summer, which could be nice if you're growing trout.

The mosquito dunks should work if these are fungus gnats.

So it's been a few days now with about 2cups of crushed egg shells and a handfull of sea shells in the sump, with no increase in alkalinity. I'm pretty sure my ph is below the scale my test strips measure.

Along with my low pH, I also have white flies in my gb so I'm thinking of trying some diatomaceous earth to see how it works for both issues.
I'll dust it on and around the lettuce, where the flies are congregating, and let the rain wash it through over the next day or two and then test again before adding more.

I sprayed the plants very lightly with some pepper garlic spray with a little dr bronners in it a few days ago but probably not heavily enough.

Dr Bronners 18-in-1 Hemp Baby Unscented Pure-Castile Soap ingredients:
Water
Organic coconut oil
Potassium hydroxide
Organic palm kernel oil
Organic olive oil
Organic hemp oil
Organic jojoba oil
Citric acid
Tocopherol

Pretty sure this stuff wont harm anything if it gets into the system but I'm trying to be careful anyhow. It has been raining though so what was sprayed on 2 days ago is now rinsed into the gb. Hopefully no new issues arise as a result.

Scotty, I'm not sure what type of grape mine is yet because I dug it from below an arbor with multiple varieties growing on it (ground layered). I dug three but only one survived. I'm hoping to get healthy cuttings of all the varieties he has this year though. I'll find some resistant rootstocks and graft them myself if the phyloxera show up on them.

I found some black aphid looking bugs on a few different garlic and onion plants in my dirt garden yesterday. I've never had bug issues with either onions or garlic before and these were pretty thick on them. I blasted them all with pepper garlic spray after hand squishing the easy to reach ones.

Try to find the potassium bicarbonate and get the pH back up. Having the pH too low can cause the biofilter to collapse and stop working. If you're reading 6.0 with the API kit then it's probably lower than that.

Potassium hydroxide or Calcium hydroxide would also work but are more dangerous to use.