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PostPosted: Apr 18th, '16, 00:59 
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LWormy wrote:
What do you mean setting up the trellises outside of the growbed? Can you give me an example of that? I get using a string and all but I don't really know how to do that otherwise because my system is on a countertop.

There are a LOT of great ideas out there. Here are 463,000 of 'em... :shock:

Google Images: hydroponic tomatoes

There is wisdom in observing how so many do it with strings or string-like contraptions:

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However this is pretty amazing!

Image

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PostPosted: Apr 18th, '16, 01:15 
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Before anyone gets too hyped up about that "tomato tree", know that this (most likely) is not your grandma's tomato and the above is a Tree Tomato - Cyphomandra betacea Sendt.

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The plant is a small, half-woody, attractive, fast-growing, brittle tree; shallow-rooted; reaching 10 to 18 ft (3-5.5 m) in height; rarely as much as 25 ft (7.5 m). The leaves are muskily odorous, evergreen, alternate, more or less heart-shaped at the base, ovate, pointed at the apex, 4 to 13 1/2 in (10-35 cm) long and 1 1/2 to 4 3/4 in (4-12 cm) broad, thin, softly hairy, with conspicuous coarse veins. Borne in small, loose clusters near the branch tips, the fragrant flowers, 1/2 to 3/4 in (1.25-2 cm) wide, have 5 pale-pink or lavender, pointed lobes, 5 prominent yellow stamens, and green-purple calyx. The long-stalked, pendent fruit, borne singly, or in clusters of 3 to 12, is smooth, egg-shaped but pointed at both ends and capped with the persistent conical calyx. In size it ranges from 2 to 4 in (5-10 cm) long and l 1/2 to 2 in (4-5 cm) in width. Skin color may be solid deep-purple, blood-red, orange or yellow, or red-and-yellow, and may have faint dark, longitudinal stripes. Flesh color varies accordingly from orange-red or orange to yellow or cream-yellow. While the skin is somewhat tough and unpleasant in flavor, the outer layer of flesh is slightly firm, succulent and bland, and the pulp surrounding the seeds in the two lengthwise compartments is soft, juicy, subacid to sweet; it is black in dark-purple and red fruits, yellow in yellow and orange fruits. The seeds are thin, nearly flat, circular, larger and harder than those of the true tomato and distinctly bitter. The fruit has a slightly resinous aroma and the flavor suggests a mild or underripe tomato with a faintly resinous aftertaste.

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PostPosted: Apr 18th, '16, 08:13 
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nosliwmas wrote:
LWormy wrote:
What do you mean setting up the trellises outside of the growbed? Can you give me an example of that? I get using a string and all but I don't really know how to do that otherwise because my system is on a countertop.

There are a LOT of great ideas out there. Here are 463,000 of 'em... :shock:

Google Images: hydroponic tomatoes

There is wisdom in observing how so many do it with strings or string-like contraptions:

Image

However this is pretty amazing!

Image

--
Sam


My GOD that is awesome! While the second pic looks pretty cool I think I am just going to stick with the string trellis in the first pic. I am going to try building an "n" shaped structure out of PVC and support the plants with strings hanging down from that as the tomato gets bigger. I also decided to leave the tomato closest to the overflow outlet because it gets the most amount of water (it is literally right next to the outlet so have water trickling next to it at all time). However, some guy told me recently that a high pH is bad for tomatoes. My pH is pretty high (8.2). Would it be a good idea to try to lower that? Would tomatoes be able to grow well despite the high pH? My fish likes higher pH (they are goldfish and like basic water) and my tap water have a lot of minerals dissolved in it. What do the folks with high pH do? I will keep you guys updated on how the tomato goes so stay tuned!


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PostPosted: Apr 22nd, '16, 06:56 
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Anyone?


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PostPosted: Apr 22nd, '16, 08:30 
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I haven't got tomatoes yet, but there are a lot of people growing them in a ton of different systems, and they usually do great. I think tomatoes are really good at taking whatever conditions they've got and just getting on with things. :lol:


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PostPosted: Apr 25th, '16, 01:31 
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The high pH will make it difficult to raise tomatoes due to lack of nutrient availability at that pH level. Is your top up water at 8.2 or higher? If so, and you really want to grow tomatoes, you either need a bigger system in order to have faster nitrification which can bring that number down, or you need to use a method to reduce the pH (using acid or a reverse osmosis system).


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PostPosted: Apr 26th, '16, 22:45 
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Yes, my top up water is at 8.2. I can't have a bigger system or buy a RO because of space and money. I could try to reduce the pH chemically but some people advised against that because rapid pH swings might be bad for my fish. My goldfish also appreciates the basic water. I am curious about the lack of nutrient availability at high pH level. What do you mean by that? Aren't all the nutrients still in the water? As far as I know nitrate won't change form like ammonia does if it is exposed to a slightly basic pH.


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PostPosted: Apr 26th, '16, 23:54 
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At higher pH levels, the nutrients can go into other chemical forms that are no longer plant available. So yes, the nutrients are still in the water but they won't be in forms that allow the plants to access them.

Here's a link to a common plant nutrient pH chart: http://www.growing-life.com/shop/pH_and ... chart.html

Most folks try and keep their pH in the 6.5 zone since that is optimal for plant uptake without adversely affecting the fish. But of course, it can take some time to reach that since you don't want to change the pH too quickly. One option for you is to use phosphoric acid or muratic acid to adjust the top up water before you add it to slowly bring the pH down. Just do it SLOWLY.

Nitrification will also slowly bring it down depending on how often you have to add top up water. But this can take quite a bit of time depending on # of fish, feed rates and amount of carbonates in your water.

Hope that helps!


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PostPosted: Apr 27th, '16, 16:10 
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Dont stress about the ph. My tomatoes grew fine despite high ph. Yield was low, but spacing was too close I think and it is a new system.


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PostPosted: May 24th, '16, 07:23 
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Brian wrote:
Dont stress about the ph. My tomatoes grew fine despite high ph. Yield was low, but spacing was too close I think and it is a new system.

Ok, thanks :D. My tomatoes are growing slowly but surely. I removed the massive clump of mint I had in my HOB (I'm getting a SunSun 304b canister in a few days) and that freed up a lot of the nitrates for the tomatoes. Right now it's still pretty small (4") and for some reason one of the sprouts stayed really short and started popping out a bunch of leaves instead of getting taller like the other one. I will post pics soon.


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PostPosted: May 24th, '16, 07:25 
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ebeuerle wrote:
At higher pH levels, the nutrients can go into other chemical forms that are no longer plant available. So yes, the nutrients are still in the water but they won't be in forms that allow the plants to access them.

Here's a link to a common plant nutrient pH chart: http://www.growing-life.com/shop/pH_and ... chart.html

Most folks try and keep their pH in the 6.5 zone since that is optimal for plant uptake without adversely affecting the fish. But of course, it can take some time to reach that since you don't want to change the pH too quickly. One option for you is to use phosphoric acid or muratic acid to adjust the top up water before you add it to slowly bring the pH down. Just do it SLOWLY.

Nitrification will also slowly bring it down depending on how often you have to add top up water. But this can take quite a bit of time depending on # of fish, feed rates and amount of carbonates in your water.

Hope that helps!


I see that I can bring the pH down chemically but I want a system as low-maintenance as possible. In case tomatoes don't work out, do you know any plants that do well in basic and alkaline water?


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