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PostPosted: Mar 7th, '16, 07:31 
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Hello everyone, new member here.

I have started our research and infrastructuring for an aquaponic system. We live in North Florida, and have access to a lot of materials. I will clarify that in a bit.

Initially I had started out slating everything for hydroponics, but am converting to aquaponics.

My greenhouse is near a pond and backs up to several thousand acres of wetlands, it is a 12 x 12 greenhouse.

Image

I am using concrete blocks, and for a reason of allowing me to adjust positions, heights, and other aspects.

Image

Now for some odd clarity...

I am not authorized to run a flood type system, or DWC. There is just some issues I do not want to deal with as far as requirements, and protocol for an HOA.

This will be a drip irrigation system, no way around it.

I want to run a radial flow filter and drip irrigation system. The tank we want to use to house the fish is a Rubbermaid 300 Gallon open top tank.

Now, with that said... I need to pick up some tanks for the radial flow filter. I have to pick out some tanks from US Plastics, the tanks will not cost me anything (this was a prior deal worked out), so I am trying to get the optimum tanks tanks (within financial reason, and responsibility).

Simply put, what do you all recommend for tanks from US Plastics for the filtration system...

I am looking at conical bottom tanks so they can be easily drained and allow sediment to settle easier.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.a ... &catid=513

I am trying to stay below $250 per tank (and again, this still does not cost me anything for the tanks)

Thoughts and recommendations, and yes I value all feedback.

Thanks for allowing me to join.


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PostPosted: Mar 7th, '16, 10:02 
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Welcome to the forum Rishel :wave:

Sounds like a fun project :thumbright: .


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PostPosted: Mar 7th, '16, 17:20 
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scotty435 wrote:
Welcome to the forum Rishel :wave:

Sounds like a fun project :thumbright: .


Thank you for the welcome.


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PostPosted: Mar 7th, '16, 20:52 
The square tubes in the cement block is a neat trick.
D


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PostPosted: Mar 7th, '16, 22:11 
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Deuem wrote:
The square tubes in the cement block is a neat trick.
D


Thank you. Just trying to order the right conical tanks now, just not sure which ones.


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PostPosted: Mar 7th, '16, 23:28 
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Quote:
Now for some odd clarity...

I am not authorized to run a flood type system, or DWC. There is just some issues I do not want to deal with as far as requirements, and protocol for an HOA.

This will be a drip irrigation system, no way around it.

Can you please elaborate on this statement? Why only drip???

Drip is OK with aquaponics, but why do you feel the need for a sediment filter? The drip system growing media will happily accommodate any sediment in the water flow. The plants will appreciate any additional food sources from the sediment too.


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PostPosted: Mar 7th, '16, 23:42 
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rishel wrote:
Just trying to order the right conical tanks now, just not sure which ones.

There has been some talk recently about conical tanks not really being as good for settling out suspended solids as many believe because of the tendency for those settling solids to stick to the sides of the cone rather than just tumble on down to the drain point. Just something to keep in mind that the gain of conical over flat-bottom might not be as great as expected. Are you working on an RFF design that specifies cone tank? If so, I'd expect selection to come down mostly to size. Once the size is determined, then of course tank selection is easier...

The Pentair Aquaculture Cone Bottom Tanks seem to normally have a 20º slope rather than those you linked to from US Plastics. So perhaps those you're looking at with a steeper slope would be better for settlement tumbling on down to the drain...

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PostPosted: Mar 8th, '16, 00:33 
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nosliwmas wrote:
rishel wrote:
Just trying to order the right conical tanks now, just not sure which ones.

There has been some talk recently about conical tanks not really being as good for settling out suspended solids as many believe because of the tendency for those settling solids to stick to the sides of the cone rather than just tumble on down to the drain point. Just something to keep in mind that the gain of conical over flat-bottom might not be as great as expected. Are you working on an RFF design that specifies cone tank? If so, I'd expect selection to come down mostly to size. Once the size is determined, then of course tank selection is easier...

The Pentair Aquaculture Cone Bottom Tanks seem to normally have a 20º slope rather than those you linked to from US Plastics. So perhaps those you're looking at with a steeper slope would be better for settlement tumbling on down to the drain...

--
Sam


Honestly, I looked at the conical based tanks just based on a hope that physics and the shape would more properly funnel the sediment to a more efficient collection point for draining. But that seems like its now questionable based upon your statement.


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PostPosted: Mar 8th, '16, 00:37 
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Tony From West Oz wrote:
Quote:
Now for some odd clarity...

I am not authorized to run a flood type system, or DWC. There is just some issues I do not want to deal with as far as requirements, and protocol for an HOA.

This will be a drip irrigation system, no way around it.

Can you please elaborate on this statement? Why only drip???

Drip is OK with aquaponics, but why do you feel the need for a sediment filter? The drip system growing media will happily accommodate any sediment in the water flow. The plants will appreciate any additional food sources from the sediment too.


Tony, if you do not mind, can you clarify your statement? We are using drip because that is what was preciously setup, and agreed to, and also the HOA does not need to be involved in getting permission and permitting. Simply put, I am not going through the nightmare of inviting Nittys from the Homeowners Association to give me permission to do this, nor am I allowing them to come inspect it to "FIND" a reason to run their mouths about it. 2 other people have drip systems near me within the HOA and have gotten no grief, I do not want to rock the boat, and have them getting nosy after everything is done. Like I said, its unfortunately complicated.

So are you saying I do not need a filter?


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PostPosted: Mar 8th, '16, 01:33 
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Before trying to answer your tank question some things need to be clarified. What are your future plans for this system, ie how large will it eventually get? What are your production goals? It maybe wise to oversize for your current system if you plan on growing later. Adding $60 now can save you $200 later. Before I dropped 30k on a system. Especially already living in FL. I would get in touch with Ryan Chatterson. And go though his aquaponics seminar. As a few of us here have. The knowledge you will gain will not only save you money, but system headaches as well. I know for a fact that Ryan uses a cone bottom upwell filter, for the reason that you t works better that the radial flow you are thinking about building. You can see it setting on the raised bed of sand in the front of his post 3/4 of them he way down on page 36 of his amazing thread. Tha way he mounted it gave height flexability and saved money for the stand.

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=12589&hilit=Chatterson+farm&start=525


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PostPosted: Mar 8th, '16, 04:27 
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floridafishin wrote:
Before trying to answer your tank question some things need to be clarified. What are your future plans for this system, ie how large will it eventually get? What are your production goals? It maybe wise to oversize for your current system if you plan on growing later. Adding $60 now can save you $200 later. Before I dropped 30k on a system. Especially already living in FL. I would get in touch with Ryan Chatterson. And go though his aquaponics seminar. As a few of us here have. The knowledge you will gain will not only save you money, but system headaches as well. I know for a fact that Ryan uses a cone bottom upwell filter, for the reason that you t works better that the radial flow you are thinking about building. You can see it setting on the raised bed of sand in the front of his post 3/4 of them he way down on page 36 of his amazing thread. Tha way he mounted it gave height flexability and saved money for the stand.

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=12589&hilit=Chatterson+farm&start=525


Let me answer some of your inquiries as best I can...

My greenhouse is 12 x 12. I am looking at a 300 to 400 gallon tank for the talapia (maybe koi, maybe another species), nothing larger. Presently as it sits, using the drip style fence post housings we have 300 stations, or 300 locations for plants.

Every bit of this is an experiment. Do I need to expand in the future at our location, absolutely not.

If I thought that I could in fact find a way to get permission to run the barrels (plastic, cut in half), then I would. It just has to make sense as per all the red tape crap I need to do with the HOA. The HOA here is REALLY bad, and no I am not moving at this time.

I believe the single biggest issue in this industry is that there is so much information, and many times conflicting, that the end user attempting to get into aquaponics is simply overwhelmed.

If I need to step back and rethink my drip irrigation to the flood table or other type, then I will put this on hold until I can get permission on this.

I have access to literally any barrel, or tank, or container at no cost. Those are typically the big ticket items, so from that perspective those costs do not apply to me. There are limits though, I can get one 300 to 400 gallon tank for fish, and two filter tanks (55 to 75 gallon, conical or not), and perhaps 15 brand new plastic drum barrels. All that I can get for free.

So now the real question is... if you were me, what would you.


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PostPosted: Mar 8th, '16, 08:24 
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rishel wrote:
Honestly, I looked at the conical based tanks just based on a hope that physics and the shape would more properly funnel the sediment to a more efficient collection point for draining. But that seems like its now questionable based upon your statement.

Sorry, I think I was remembering parts of the conversation from the Mineralization "Widget" thread, where several commented on how much crap sticks to the walls of their conical tanks. I would expect they are better at settlement concentration for the same reasons of physics and shape you mention. Here are a few comments about this from the Mineralization widget design thread:

in various posts, folks wrote:
Where money is no object and a seriously conical tank can be bought or fabricated, then perhaps the problem will be minimal.. but it seems that muck WILL stick and if left long enough WILL ferment and blobs will float
[ ... ]
In terms of amount of water before it runs clear, that would be about 30L from my 200L cone bottomed tank, though as mentioned above alot of shit sticks to the sides so a full drain down is needed every now and then.
[ ... ]
Using a steeper cone bottom for the RFF would help with solids accumulating on the sides but you'd only have to sweep the sides of the cone occasionally even with the solids accumulation.
[ ... ]
It is interesting that I have spoken to a couple of experienced folk, who say the cone-shaped tanks are not all they are cracked up to be, as the lighter solids tend to coat the cone surface and form a scum that then collects the more solid solids. Ie.. whether you have a humble drum or a fancy cone, some mechanical prompting is needed.. to get the tff moving

Also, a while back someone asked the aforementioned Ryan about his cone:
Quote:
Q: I have a 600g fiberglass tank I want to turn into a filter. What is the minimum angle you would recommend for a cone on a filter?
A: 45

The story of Ryan's Chatterson Farms, from start to success, is an epic read:

Image

So I think bottom-line is that a conical tank is better than a flat-bottom tank, but they do have issues, and something with a steeper cone than those 20º Pentair tanks, like the ones you linked to from US Plastics, would be better.

--
Sam


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PostPosted: Mar 8th, '16, 16:58 
I am experimenting with dripping just using air water lifts. With 300 plants that would be a lot to do. But with a dripper how are you going to keep solids from filling the heads? they could get clogged all over the place.

D


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PostPosted: Mar 8th, '16, 19:52 
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I agree with you that alot of misinformation is floating around aquaponics. This is percicly why myself and others i know have decided to follow the proven leaders. Saves ALOT of headaches. Along with the before mentioned farm thread from Ryan, his back porch thread will be enormously helpful to you at your build size. By the way the pictures of his setup does not do it justice. It is much better in person. Since you need to go through usplastics, are not thinking of expansion in the near future. Have to run drip which will bring clogging problems if not done right. Along with knowing the budget you are comfortable with. If it were my build and my money. This is the tank I would choose. I would however build my own stand so that i could get the water heights perfect.

http://www.usplastic.com/mobile/item.aspx?sku=11784

The tank was chosen for the height more than the gallons it holds. Being translucent it will need to be either wrapped or painted to prevent algae from growing in it. I would also run at least 1 (50gal) drum after it filled with media, to act as a polisher (catch all the fine particles that will get past your cone bottom). Along with adding valuable surface area for your bacteria. I wish you great success with your build.


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PostPosted: Mar 8th, '16, 21:03 
Maybe you do this already; When they put in fire sprinkler heads here, right before the head they tap the top of the pipe and bring a U down to the heads. This stops any clogging. It might work for fish poo also if nothing else does. the solids in the pipes just go right by the heads no matter how much junk is in the pipes. Once a month they also do a full pressure blow out of all of the pipes to remove junk in them.
D


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