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PostPosted: Nov 3rd, '15, 11:14 
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The Jebao CM 6500L/H Wet/Dry Eco Pump appears to only pump to 4m head, so it must be a different model if it pumps to 5m. At 50W, the output would fall off very quickly with increased head.


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PostPosted: Nov 3rd, '15, 11:34 
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Gunagulla wrote:
The Jebao CM 6500L/H Wet/Dry Eco Pump appears to only pump to 4m head, so it must be a different model if it pumps to 5m. At 50W, the output would fall off very quickly with increased head.


Nup. That's my pump. :( The title on eBay said 5m head but in the actual description it says only 4m head...

I'll see if I can dig out the manual.


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PostPosted: Nov 3rd, '15, 11:56 
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@2.5m head, it pumps 3500lph

8m of 32mm pipe + bends is worth about another meter of friction head loss, so actual flow may be around 2500 to 3000lph.


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PostPosted: Nov 3rd, '15, 12:21 
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Found the manual.

It says the maximum head for the 6500 Litre pump is 4m.

I'm guessing I need to upgrade?


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PostPosted: Nov 3rd, '15, 12:28 
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Found the chart as well:

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PostPosted: Nov 6th, '15, 11:06 
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Finally some progress today after a frustrating week of rain and being so floored by a head cold I couldn't have done anything if I wanted to...

This was our sump hole this morning! :shifty: I actually ended up running the pond pump to empty it! I'm hoping if the sun stays out it might dry enough to lengthen it a little and get it ready for installing the two sump tank IBCs

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FINALLY cut the IBCs to make the grow beds. After a lot of thought I decided to cut them vertically after all. Means the bottoms are well supported without having to use the metal pallets. Which lowers the Growbeds by 10cm - I'll still have to build a step where the ground is at its lowest but every little bit I can shave off the system height while still preserving the volume in the system is a good thing.

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I plan to use some Galvanised fence posts I picked up for free to support the long sides where there is now no cAge.

Are those upright poles I left on the cages unnecessary?

Should I cut them off?

I plan on using wire brush attachments for the drill to smooth the cut edges as I already have a gash on my leg from carelessly brushing past one of the cut cages.

Angle grinder cuts through these cages like butter - but it's a scary tool when you use it for the first time!

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PostPosted: Nov 6th, '15, 11:24 
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Angle grinder cuts through these cages like butter - but it's a scary tool when you use it for the first time!

battery operated ones like Ozito (bunnings) or bosch/makita (for the more serious) are bit less fearsome and I pretty much use mine for everything along with battery reciprocating saw (handheld jigsaw). Cut all my PVC pipe etc with it and have a little stand in the shed for my power one.

If go that way look for 18v Lithium and make sure you have two batteries. Les power cord issues around water as well. Often come in a multi pack with the drill.


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PostPosted: Nov 6th, '15, 13:32 
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SydneyChick wrote:
Ok plumbing question:

I have heaps of greywater hose I was hoping to recycle in the AP system.

It's 25mm - is that wide enough to provide sufficient flow?

I was hoping to use it for the Pump to fish tank connection as well...

Thoughts?


Belatedly - this may not be all that good..

Most GreyWater hose that I have seen, is corrugated, and this adds significant resistance and hence loss..
..
.


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PostPosted: Nov 6th, '15, 13:52 
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Indeed, very poor flow rates can be expected with that sort of pipe, plus it will accumulate particles.


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PostPosted: Nov 6th, '15, 17:38 
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Are those upright poles I left on the cages unnecessary?

Should I cut them off?

I'd leave them on and use them to fix some timber or similar to it. Some garden hose or the like over them should help protect your skin in the mean time.


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PostPosted: Nov 7th, '15, 13:52 
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A little bit of progress today.

Installed the fittings on the sump tanks. Made a HUGE mistake when placing one of the holes for the fittings and it ended up partially on an area where the plastic curves. I tightened the fitting as much as possible and slathered the gap with silicon too for good measure.

Won't know if it's a problem until we actually connect the tanks and fill them a little to see if it leaks...

:upset: :upset: :upset: :upset:


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PostPosted: Nov 7th, '15, 14:34 
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hmm, keep in mind that the tanks are polyethylene, and silicone rubber doesn't really stick to it very well. It might be ok tomorrow with a tiny bit of water preesure, but what happens when it starts to seep water in a month or 2? As I mentioned a while back, a good mechanical seal is what you need with PE.


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PostPosted: Nov 7th, '15, 16:16 
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if you have GB's still to go as per your original plan, then might be better to use another IBC to make the sump half and get it 100%. Try and use the dud one for the GB or get one of those $20 ones Budoi posted about for new GB.
Much easier to deal with a dodgy GB than a dodgy sump tank - even better to have no issues at all ;-).

Dodgy one might make a good duckweed bed or have some other purpose later on.


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PostPosted: Nov 7th, '15, 17:24 
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I crawled inside the tank to silicone the inside of the fitting and the inside of the fitting was pretty much flush to the plastic. Looked like a good seal on the inside anyway.

What do you think?

Still too risky?


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PostPosted: Nov 7th, '15, 17:42 
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Gunagulla wrote:
hmm, keep in mind that the tanks are polyethylene, and silicone rubber doesn't really stick to it very well. It might be ok tomorrow with a tiny bit of water preesure, but what happens when it starts to seep water in a month or 2? As I mentioned a while back, a good mechanical seal is what you need with PE.


GG said it as clearly as is possible..

You have two choices.. Go ahead as you are and see what happens, or you pull it all apart and go with what was originally suggested..

But clearly, as you have gone to so much trouble, you WILL be giving it a go..
so the only remaining thought is that you should connect it all in a way that allows easy removal wth minimum practical disruption to other plumbing ... ie taps and connectors ..
..
.


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