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PostPosted: Sep 7th, '15, 12:09 
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I can't edit the first post anymore. The latest firmware is here
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=22607&start=90#p482854

The terminal blocks are 2.54mm (.100) pitch, same as the pcb through hole spacing.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/20pcs3-Poles-3-P ... 2c9fb690bd

You can share positives and grounds but be sure the wires are secure. Putting more than a half dozen wires into one terminal block gets pretty dodgy.

Send me a message if you run into any issues and let me know when you've got it all working. I'd love to get some feedback on the system.


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PostPosted: Sep 7th, '15, 18:03 
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Cheers. I worked out the pitch last night and ordered 4x10pin strips and 2x5 which should fit the full remaining length I believe. This will give me some extra points if I want to add something later.

I'll definitely give feedback and pics, I hope once I have the fundamentals are working smoothly I can add some customise areas.

My cabinet is a serious overkill / 4 man lift, so a little embarrassing but will do the job well.


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PostPosted: Sep 11th, '15, 09:37 
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@Chiumanfu

Are you able to provide a higher quality image of the routing diagram on page 1 please, maybe a new zip file with everything in it.

Mainly at this point I'm finding it hard follow the wiring of the shield by only using the 3 shield*.jpg images alone, I could probably work out the general connection paths but not which connections require certain resistor values etc. So anything you can do to clarify that would be great.

Thank you


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PostPosted: Sep 11th, '15, 12:00 
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I'll see what I can do. Work is really busy right now so I can't promise it will happen quick.


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PostPosted: Sep 11th, '15, 12:48 
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I understand, much appreciated :)


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PostPosted: Sep 11th, '15, 20:11 
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Well, I for one am impressed.

Chimanfu... if you just marry a woman who loves to stay home and watch fish this system becomes obsolete. (Though I would hesitate to say simpler or cheaper)

Seriously, this is an awesome thread. hopefully it is something I can tackle once I am up and running again. Shortly to begin rebuilding my greenhouse that was taken down by the blizzard of 2013.

Thank you for your sharing this info.


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PostPosted: Sep 12th, '15, 10:50 
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Image

@Bedlore - I'm not sure if this will help you. The unlabelled headers are the Arduino. JP8 is the keypad. JP4 is the relay. JP7 is the LCD. JP11 is pH. JP12 is DO. The rest are all labelled.


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PostPosted: Sep 12th, '15, 11:04 
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You attached your BNC grounds to ground? Interesting.


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PostPosted: Sep 12th, '15, 11:10 
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Thanks Chiumanfu its very helpful. I made an color inverted copy to be printer friendly too.


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PostPosted: Sep 12th, '15, 12:22 
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adamlwvdc36 wrote:
You attached your BNC grounds to ground? Interesting.

Be careful with that. My older version of the ph and DO boards tie the grounds all together. I know that the new EZO versions separate the probe ground from the data ground. If you tie them together, you'll have problems. Check the data sheet for your board version.


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PostPosted: Sep 12th, '15, 12:40 
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This is precisely why I was saying something. If someone else were to build this and did tie grounds they would read wrong. Just a heads up for the people using the newer circuits.


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PostPosted: Sep 17th, '15, 11:27 
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If you're duplicating my design. Don't use the same cheap power plugs that I did. After it's been running for about 8 months in the greenhouse, the contacts are getting dodgy and intermittent. I'm in process of changing them all over to standard wall outlets in external weather proof boxes.
Image

Also, I found a great deal on pcb's... somewhere in China, a batch of these beauties are getting made.

Image

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PostPosted: Sep 17th, '15, 11:36 
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got a link for the PCB manufacturer?


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PostPosted: Sep 17th, '15, 12:47 
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http://dirtypcbs.com


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PostPosted: Sep 17th, '15, 15:34 
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I purchased a bunch of these IEC sockets, http://www.ebay.com/itm/261539563623 do you think they would fair better?

Those pcb's are gorgeous, how do I secure a few?


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