Backyard Aquaponics
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hello, I have a 620 water pump that keeps burning out when all of the water in my sump tank has evaporated, with my scheduled its hard sometimes to make sure the sump tank is full with water every few days,
SN: I would like to add, that on the pipe thats leaving the pump going into the FT, I have a valve on that I have slightly open to slow down the water flow into my GB, if the water flow is to fast then my syphon wouldn't work properly.

Any suggestions on how to fix this problem and to save me from having to keep buying pumps? Ive tried dropping down to a 220ghp pump but its just a little slow .

Put an electric float valve in so the pump doesn't come on when there is no water. If this is a regular occurence, then you probably need a larger sump, or shorter pumping times.

If I go with a larger pump then restrict it with a valve would that also burn up the pump?
What kind of electic float valve do i need? im using a 620gph Pacific Hydrostar water pump.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... h&_sacat=0


float switch, not valve.


yes restricting flow is bad for the pump.

what could i do, so i wouldnt have to restrict the flow at all?

replace valve with T piece, have pipe go back to sump, put valve on that pipe.

run 1/4, 1/2, whatever water back to sump.

Should i stay at 620gph or upgrade to something larger?

sinse the 220gph was just a bit to small what if i down size to a 400gph, would that work?

As Yavimaya said it's also best to have a "tee" and a ball valve on the pump that you can divert water back into the sump through the "tee" and then you are not throttling and restricting the pump, just controlling the flow up to the fish tank with the ball valve and the excess water is diverted back into the sump.

A larger pump isn't a problem because it's not being restricted in anyway the water is flowing in 2 different directions and water flowing from the "tee" will help aerate the sump.

With the "tee" and a float switch you shouldn't have any problems.

Ok, so let me make sure I'm understanding this right,

Remove the ball valve, replace with a tee, connect pipe and run pipe back into the sump and put a ball valve on the end of that and then use the valve to control the waterflow?

Restricting a pond pump doesn't hurt it at all, in fact it will draw less power. But I agree, add a tee and direct additional flow back to the sump, have the ball valve on that pipe and control from there.

Gunna makes a more valid point though that needs to be addressed - you shouldn't run your sump dry in a few days so more to the point you need a larger sump.

with the weather here evaporation is a killer, on a very hot week the sump would dry out within 3 days if i don't catch it.

adding the T, ball valve on the opposite end along with a float should be fine if i stay withe 620gph?

I think Guna summed it up, bigger sump. Or get rid of the siphons and run constant flood.



Not sure about it using less power Charlie.

Confused me when I first found out about it too mate. Im assuming he's got an impeller pond pump (like most of us), if so the power consumption is directly related to impeller speed. i.e. restrict the flow, slow the impeller speed and power consumption drops.

Its been debated and proven before.

Charlie is correct- and it will use even less power if you restrict an impellor pump (non-positive displacement) entirely- the water just goes around and around in the cavity, the pump just has to overcome a small amount of friction.

Add an automatic top up valve, a float valve:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-Mini ... 3f2972bfd2

Similar to that, but probably a better one. So when the water drops below a certain level, the tap automatically tops it up. It should solve your problems.

Also, constant flood will make the water last longer than flood and drain for the short term.