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PostPosted: Jul 27th, '15, 09:50 
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Is there any benefit, and it is safe to add, a product called Stability to my new IBC System. So far I have expanded shale media, no plants, 175 gallons of water and 12 (actually 13) small hybrid catfish added yesterday.

Stability says it's a New Tank Stabilization System for Marine and Freshwater, rapidly & safely establishes bio-filter, prevents "New Tank Syndrome". I claims to contain a blend of aerobic, anaerobic and faculative bacteria to facilitate the breakdown of waste organics, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. The bacteria employed by Stability are non-sulfur fixing and will not produce toxic hydrogen sulfide. Stability is harmless to aquatic organisms as well as aquatic plants.

Thoughts on use of this product?


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PostPosted: Jul 27th, '15, 09:56 
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I've heard mixed reviews of those sorts of products. And I think to do it properly, the bacteria cultures still need to be live, and they don't have a great shelf life.

You can also easily do without it. All the bacteria it needs to get started is already in the environment, or if you get an established aquarium, and shake the crud in their filter into your tank, it'll do the same thing.


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PostPosted: Jul 27th, '15, 10:16 
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..
Stability - I suspect that if obtained from a BIG store, then it may be viable.. ie NEWer

I HAVE used that type of stuff for many years in aquarium systems.. Just to-be-sure-to-be-sure.. "Cycle" I think I used..

and get one of the kids to pee in the tank to get the ammonia up and kick the bacteria into life..

If you know someone with a working old aquarium, get them to wash the filter and give you the dregs..
..
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PostPosted: Jul 27th, '15, 11:42 
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[quote="BuiDoi"]..

and get one of the kids to pee in the tank to get the ammonia up and kick the bacteria into life..

[\quote]

Don't pee in the tank if you've got fish already in there. I just thought I should add that, the added ammonia might kill off the fish.

Look up fish cycling, just don't feed them, or feed very little if you're keeping an eye on the ammonia. When the nitrates start to rise, and nitrites are low, then start feeding.

The fish can survive for a month without food.


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PostPosted: Jul 27th, '15, 13:12 
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Quote:
Un-ionized Ammonia - Once the concentration of total ammonia-nitrogen is
known, the amount of toxic, un-ionized ammonia can be calculated and reported in mg/l.
Simply refer to a table (provided with your water quality kit) that gives the percentage of
un-ionized ammonia for different pH and temperatures. Find the percentage value for
your pH and temperature, and multiply this by the total ammonia-nitrogen value (see the
instructions in your water quality test kit for examples). Un-ionized ammonia levels of
0.2 to 2.0 mg/l will stress your fish causing depressed feeding activity. Levels higher
than 2.0 mg/l can result in death.
You should note that a small change in pH can have a profound effect on the
amount of un-ionized ammonia. At 25°C and a pH of 7.0, only 0.40% of the total
ammonia will be un-ionized. While at 25°C and a pH of 8.0, 3.83% of the total ammonia
will be in the form of toxic, un-ionized ammonia.
Nitrites - Nitrites (NO2-) - occur as an intermediate stage in the biological
decomposition of ammonia to nitrates (NO3-). Bacteria in the gravel beds readily oxidize
nitrites to nitrates if oxygen is present. Occasionally there may be an interruption in the
biological processes that convert nitrites to nitrates, and nitrites will begin to accumulate
in the water.
Nitrites should be checked every 3-4 days and should generally be very low (0-2
mg/l). You may notice an increase in nitrites 5-7 days after a “spike” in the ammonia
levels. Nitrite concentrations of 2-10 mg/l stress fish. High nitrites (10-20 mg/l) cause
“brown blood disease” in fish and can result in death (the fish will appear to be gasping
for air at the surface and their blood will appear chocolate in color
). Calcium chloride
can be added to the system to reduce the nitrite level.


Found these words in another thread link.. some interesting confirmations in there.. and a special plus for me, for my unanswered question about Calcium Chloride.. :dontknow:

Love to hear from a chemistry boffin as to what it does.. Calcium Chloride is that flaky-white stuff used to remove moisture in closets etc. you can buy big bottles for cents.. :headbang:

Important thing is to understand that the lower the pH, the less the impact of the nasties on fish etc...
..
.


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PostPosted: Jul 27th, '15, 22:33 
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Thank you for the very valuable information!! I'll be doing more testing tonight. Trying to pay close attention to details and do this right. I'm contacting an aquarium service company today to try to get some used filters from some healthy aquariums to squeeze.

My fish looked really good this morning. Still all alive and very active. I did a slight pH adjustment last night. I'm having problems keeping it below 8. Had to start with municipal water that is a bit hard. I'm topping of with small quantities of RO that is actually a bit acidic and adding a bit of ph down to try to control it until things are established and more neutralized.


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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '15, 06:20 
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snake oil.

Most aquarium products are not good for fish intended for consumption and therefore frowned upon in the AP/AQ worlds.

Simply cycle the system as per normal, theres nothing you can do to speed up the process except providing the right 02, temp and pH.


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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '15, 11:37 
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I forgot that I was supposed to cycle the system before adding fish, so now here I am trying to keep the chemistry from killing them.

They are still active tonight and look healthy. I did salt them due to high nitrites. I really can't tell what the level is from the color chart that came with my API Master Test Kit. It looks bright rose to me not purple like the chart. I'm somewhere between 0.50 and 2.0 ppm, I think. Kinda frustrated with the kit and trying to match colors at the moment!!


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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '15, 11:55 
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Refer to this chart with your ammonia/ph/temp.

It'll tell you when the ammonia is going to become a problem:
Image

And salting to 1ppt will help the fish deal with any nitrite spikes.

Just don't feed them until the ammonia is in a safe range.


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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '15, 13:21 
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You don't have to fish less cycle a system. Actually most cycle with fish. Just monitor your levels and feed accordingly, you may also need to do small water changes. Columns post is spot on and refer to that as the system progresses.


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PostPosted: Jul 28th, '15, 23:45 
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Thank you so very much for your comments and suggestions!!!! Your sharing your experience is much appreciated!! I wasn't expecting to have nitrites at this level so quickly. Thankfully the fish I bought came from a high quality hatchery and they are in excellent condition.

I did salt last night and now I wish I'd added a little acid due to my high pH, 8.2. At work now and just hoping that all will be well when I get home. A friend of a friend is getting a container of bacteria from a lab that produces bacteria for high end aquariums that will not have any nasties in it that I may pickup from a pond for other questionable source. Hopefully that will jump start the cycling process. Should have that tomorrow evening, if all goes well until then.

The aeration in my system should be good. The siphon is firing about every 10 minutes or even less. I meant to time it but forgot last night.

A little off topic here but I have about 2.5 to 3 inches of dry area in my growbed. My siphon is a little lower than I had planned. Do you think I need to order another siphon or try to adjust this one? or will this work?


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PostPosted: Jul 29th, '15, 01:45 
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Got any pics of that siphon? Does it sit on a standpipe that can be changed out for a longer one, this would raise the water level?


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PostPosted: Jul 29th, '15, 03:38 
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I have a bell siphon kit for IBC's from Desert Aquaponics bought on e-Bay. It's very nice and works great. It does have a stand pipe inside that could be lengthened. I may have to raise the cover as well. Not sure how easy this would be since it's currently installed and has media all around it, but I probably need to see if I can do this. The stand pipe has a flare at the top so I would need to cut and splice it. It wasn't expensive. The best thing may be for me to contact the seller and see what they would charge for a new taller stand pipe and cover.


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PostPosted: Jul 29th, '15, 10:43 
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This evening the pH was 8.2, ammonia .25, nitrite was off the chart & nitrate 40. I called the gentleman who taught the class that got me started on this road in the first place and he recommended doing a 50% water change to get the nitrites down quickly since I am starting up with fish. I did this and retested.
ph is 8.0, ammonia .25, nitrite is better but still high I'm guessing 2.0, and nitrate was 20. I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the colors and exactly how to read the results.

My mentor thinks I'm on the right track and that my system is close to being cycled. Certainly hope so!!

My fish are still very active and seem to be enjoying life.

Thursday I'm getting live bacteria to hopefully help get this going!! So ready for the pH and nitrites to drop!!!!!


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PostPosted: Jul 29th, '15, 10:55 
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I wish we could like posts on here like on FaceBook. All of your comments and suggestions are so very helpful and appreciated. Wish I could "like" them!!!

Colum, BuiDoi, Charlie & Scotty, Thank You!!!


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