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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '15, 12:20 
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Tonzz wrote:
An idea I saw (and sorry this will have metric ) feed into grow beds with 90mm storm water pipe, where you want it to feed into grow bed instead of ball valves, drill a decent size hole.
Now get some off cuts of same diameter pipe and cut rings about 2-3" inches wide then cut pipe so it can be spread. These slip over the main pipe and slid along over drilled holes to adjust amount of water coming through.
Gawd I hope that makes sense,

My head is banging away with the flu and I dont think I'am thinking straight.

But the general idea is to use the slices of pipe and slide them over drilled holes in main gravity pipe to adjust water flow. I think Ive just repeated repeated repeated myself



Tonzz, I think I understand. The short piece is split down one side so it can open just enough to slide over the main fill pipe and adjust the drilled opening at each grow bed as needed. That would indeed be less expensive and I may use that for most of the grow beds and use check ball valves sparingly.


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PostPosted: Jun 26th, '15, 10:10 
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We checked out the 1100 gallon round tank today at the supply store and decided it is not thick enough to withstand the continuous pressure if left above ground. The sturdier poly tanks are only up to 300 gallons and $220 compared to the $20 IBC 275 gallon tank. Sticking with the IBC's for fish for now. A little more plumbing won't add up to the $200 difference in cost.

I did some dirt work with the tractors yesterday 1) disked the clay hump by the barn to break it up, 2) bladed the broken up clay and packed dirt and composted horse manure down the slope to help establish grass in a small bare area. This will allow rainwater to flow away from the barn rather than into it!


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PostPosted: Jun 28th, '15, 11:05 
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Progress today! The goats and sheep are sold and now I can finish cleaning in and around the barn (what a mess we inherited!) without being tripped or run over by friendlies. After a lengthy discussion with one of my sons, I have rethought my original layout and will post another for input. We located a local source for pond liner, submersible pumps, and a few other needed items. What we do not have is a local source for Hydroton, so will likely go with river rock as I think pea gravel may be too small for the things I want to grow.


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PostPosted: Jun 29th, '15, 01:24 
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Sounds good, always takes longer than you think it will but you're getting there :thumbright:


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PostPosted: Jun 29th, '15, 11:46 
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scotty435 wrote:
Sounds good, always takes longer than you think it will but you're getting there :thumbright:


Thanks, Scotty435!

I attached the most recent draft. We will likely start with the double row of media grow beds next to the sump and fish tank line on the south wall. There is a shed attached to the South wall, so plenty of shade and chickens under the shed will provide some heat during the winter through the greenhouse plastic wall.

We are planning to purchase the 3000gph pump. With all our reading, it appears this is the most likely to work effectively and efficiently with a flood and drain system. To used timed or not timed, that is now the question. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Jun 29th, '15, 12:48 
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You may have this pump sized right but then again this might be important. We recommend turning over the fish tank volume once per hour. If you are running timed flood and drain but only for 15 minutes during the hour, your pump needs to deliver 4 times the volume that a pump running all hour would. Hope that makes sense to you.

I don't know if anyone has mentioned head height to you either. Head height is from the top of the water the pump is in to the highest height you pump to. Most companies have charts or tables that tell how much their pump will deliver at any given head height (I think they fudge a bit so might be good to go a little larger). If you're thinking to expand or want to use it for extra aeration - think about this as well.

Here's an example - http://www.azponds.com/laguna_maxflo_chart.htm

Cheers


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PostPosted: Jun 29th, '15, 13:00 
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Just to make sure, you don't want to send the water from one fish tank to the second, the water will get dirtier between each tank, and the last tank will suffer. But I could be reading it wrong.

How many fish are you planning on growing?


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PostPosted: Jun 29th, '15, 13:04 
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Colum Black-Byron wrote:
you don't want to send the water from one fish tank to the second


+1


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PostPosted: Jun 30th, '15, 10:46 
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scotty435 wrote:
You may have this pump sized right but then again this might be important. We recommend turning over the fish tank volume once per hour. If you are running timed flood and drain but only for 15 minutes during the hour, your pump needs to deliver 4 times the volume that a pump running all hour would. Hope that makes sense to you.

I don't know if anyone has mentioned head height to you either. Head height is from the top of the water the pump is in to the highest height you pump to. Most companies have charts or tables that tell how much their pump will deliver at any given head height (I think they fudge a bit so might be good to go a little larger). If you're thinking to expand or want to use it for extra aeration - think about this as well.

Here's an example - http://www.azponds.com/laguna_maxflo_chart.htm

Cheers



Bought a Red Lion pump today with these specs (3200 is 0', 2880 is 5' head height):
RL-SP33T 14942740 0 10121 14163 6 1/3 4.4/115 Tethered 8' 3200 2880 2520 1680 1260 25' On: 14.5"
Off: 5.5" 14" or more

http://www.redlionproducts.com/sump/the ... ump-pumps/

Considering timed versus continuous flood and drain, I am leaning toward continuous for several reasons. It does make sense! And what doesn't make sense, I refer to the hubby who is an extra-nerdy guy. :-)


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PostPosted: Jun 30th, '15, 10:55 
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Colum Black-Byron wrote:
Just to make sure, you don't want to send the water from one fish tank to the second, the water will get dirtier between each tank, and the last tank will suffer. But I could be reading it wrong.

How many fish are you planning on growing?




Colum and scotty,

Well, I waaaas going to do that, but I missed what should have been a no-brainer. Each IBC is 275 max gallons. I was going to start with 5 and 4 MGBs each for 1:1 ratio. Was thinking no more than 250 gallons per fish tank, and 25 fish per tank for a 1 fish per 10 gallon to start and let my plants establish. The barn area we have to work with is 30' by 49'6", but I have to allow for the barn door openings so we can bring heavy things in with the small tractor or trailer from either end.

While trying to keep plumbing as simple as possible, I also want to give the system the best chance to succeed, so I invite any and all critiques and suggestions! I promise you won't hurt my feelings!!! :support:


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PostPosted: Jun 30th, '15, 11:07 
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Colum Black-Byron wrote:
Just to make sure, you don't want to send the water from one fish tank to the second, the water will get dirtier between each tank, and the last tank will suffer. But I could be reading it wrong.

How many fish are you planning on growing?




Would this work?

*Pump from sump to a pipe that feeds all fish tanks simultaneously
*Pump from each FT to its dedicated 4 beds
*Gravity drain from each MGB ties together and back into the sump

In this case, would it be best for the sump to be in the middle (2 FT left, 3 FT right)?


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PostPosted: Jun 30th, '15, 12:12 
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rhoover wrote:
Colum Black-Byron wrote:
Just to make sure, you don't want to send the water from one fish tank to the second, the water will get dirtier between each tank, and the last tank will suffer. But I could be reading it wrong.

How many fish are you planning on growing?




Would this work?

*Pump from sump to a pipe that feeds all fish tanks simultaneously
*Pump from each FT to its dedicated 4 beds
*Gravity drain from each MGB ties together and back into the sump

In this case, would it be best for the sump to be in the middle (2 FT left, 3 FT right)?


I attached a picture of how I'd do it. The tanks would be elevated slightly, with a bottom drain in each tank, going to a larger pipe (100mm+). This pipe goes along the ground (or slightly buried so it's not a trip hazard). Then it rises up (to the point that you want the fish tank height to be, with a t-pipe at the top to stop a siphon), and gravity feeds into the beds.

Then at the bottom, have a screw in pipe bit, so you can drain one of the tanks for harvest or something if you want to. Just block off the water exit on the other beds, and let the water out, and you can isolate a tank easier.

But also, avoid ball valves, because they'll get horribly expensive for the 17 you'd need for this. Get some PVC elbows, and you can twist them so the opening is at different heights, and it'll dump the water easier.

Also, a single IBC as the sump won't cut it, no where big enough for all the beds. You'd need 2000L, making it 3000L wouldn't hurt either.

Or have I just confused you horribly?


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PostPosted: Jun 30th, '15, 13:47 
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:D I recalled seeing some pics from other threads that I believe have some of what you are describing. This one, jwnova99's system at viewtopic.php?f=18&t=1619&start=45 has the elbow that could be twisted to turn upward to cut the flow. The IBC's have a built-in drain at the bottom that could be used when harvesting fish. I was hoping to avoid raising the FTs because of their weight when full, but will look into this. If I left them on the forklift base, would that not work for minimum clearance?

For pipe size, based on everything I have read in BYAP threads, bigger is better. I was thinking 2" pipe and fittings for the MGBs main line. Should I keep to 2" for the inlet pipe or reduce to 1" or 1.5". And what size for the FTs?

Getting the picture....you make clear points and it helps clear some of the newbie fog. :D


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PostPosted: Jun 30th, '15, 14:01 
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The forklift base should be high enough, I wasn't thinking about that.

With the inlet, it's easy to figure out if you look at Jay's system:
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=16376&start=90

I'd go with 3" or bigger for the gravity fed, 4" if you can get it. The 2" will be fine for the pressure coming from the pump though.

Just one thing to note, if you go the bottom drain route, if a pipe comes out, kid knocks it out, or a horse knocks it out, you'll drain all the tanks. Make sure it's designed good and safe so it's not an issue.


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PostPosted: Jul 1st, '15, 10:15 
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Great info and love Jay's system! Will take your suggestion and do 4" for the gravity fed and 2" from sump to FTs. For the bottom drains, all animals are being banished to other parts of the property and there will be simple walls and fences around the barn to keep them in their assigned places. We will have kids and neighbors around the system, so will either bury pipes that can be buried and build some type of cover over those that can't.

Back on task tomorrow....I hope. Temp got to 102F outdoors today and had lots of errands during the cooler morning hours. Really looking forward to moving this along!


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