Backyard Aquaponics
A place to discuss aquaponics

That was my exact sentiment at about the 3.5 month part, when I had to dig up and remove a good portion of my drains to swap out pressure fittings for drain fitting. You reach a point of no return, and you just keep working till your done. It's very satisfying to get the water flowing and get the fish in after so many months of hard work. Your getting very close Rodgers!

Thanks Chris

Seriously, Aquaponics has already taken over my life! I've done my morning newsletter since 1999, yep every morning, that is until you lot came around.



If y'all are interested in the Wild West check out the pictures from my lunch in the Masonic cemetery yesterday. I think it is fascinating history of one of the roughest toughest towns in the West.
FYI those are Woodsmen of the World grave markers as well as Masonic grave markers

Brian's Infrequent Blog

Brian’s-infrequent-blog-pond-interior-stucco-finished

Good Morning

Nell and I both had dentist appointments yesterday. Her’s in Las Vegas, mine in Mora. Both went well and we returned here early in the day. Nell has been planting in seed trays for the last week, in between unfathomable amounts of paperwork. I decided I’d put off the finishing touch on the pond interior long enough.

Pond-top-flagstone-finished-excess-media-bed-water-return-to-pond

Pond-interior-stucco-finished-under-the-boardwalk-side

Pond-interior-stucco-finished-Lily-planter-side
I realize these look like featureless gray, but that is sort of the point. The next step is sealant. The sealant is expensive and we’re trying to minimize the amount needed by smoothing the surface as much as possible beforehand. The same goes for the next layer which is an even more expensive product called Hetch Rubber Koi Pond Coat. This is also a paint on product. Before either of those products can be applied the cement needs to fully cure. Curing will take around two weeks from the application of this last coat of stucco.

Here are some pictures from this morning. Included in this section are the two more plumbing systems. Heavily researched, probably over-thunk, but set in stone nonetheless.


Pond-interior-stucco-finished-under-boardwalk-outflow-from-three-media-beds-to-pond-plus-more-flagstone 3inch drain

Pond-interior-stucco-finished-under-boardwalk-outflow-from-two-media-beds-to-pond. This one unfortunately is only 2 inch.

Pond-interior-stucco-finished-under-boardwalk-outflow-from-three-media-beds-to-pond (this one is 3 inch.

Pond-interior-stucco-finished-outflow-to-sump

Pond-interior-stucco-finished-both-pond-water-outflows-the-SLO-and-the-larger-overflow
I made this outflow many months ago. Later I learned that a 2″ SLO is ideal, I made it 1.5″, oh well, it is as they say,”set in stone” now.

SLO-design
In our pond we went with the natural contour of the bedrock in which we carved the pond. This created a slope on all sides towards the deepest point in the pond, a trough, approximately three feet long. My plan is to place a perforated pipe lying horizontally in the trough. I’m speculating the solids will eventually sink to the trough, where a hopefully gravity will draw them up and out through that 1.5″ pipe and into a set of filters. I’m of course uncertain the lower SLO outlet will force enough off the bottom. I’m prepared to have a small auxiliary pump pull the solids through the filters before they reach said pump. This is why I want filter barrels that have lids which can be sealed, to create a vacuum.

I’ll use this time, while waiting for the cement to cure to build the first media grow beds.

Brian (Something’s Fishy) Rodgers

Brian, would it be cheaper to use marcite then the sealer? Looking good.

Brian, this is really an epic building project.
Well done to you both.
I find the construction phase is the most exciting, as once finished, watching plants grow can be a little underwhelming in comparison, but I am really looking forward to seeing your system finished & running!!!

Brian the solids will gather in the lowest point in your pond because of the slope and it would be better to use a normal SLO rather than the horizontal perforated pipe, even use dual SLO's together or separate. I have used horizontal SLO's and found that fish solids gather underneath the pipe, the current will run faster to a smaller outlet than an outlet spread across a wider distance.

I've tried both slots and holes in horizontal pipes, the holes don't pick up all the solids and I've lost small fish being dragged into the slots.

Try both and I think you will find the normal SLO will perform a lot better.

Brian, I have just finished reading your thread, and my chooks and trout are hungry and my Labrador is lonely and I haven't done any of the things I should have... What you and Nell have achieved is truly awesome and I add my congratulations and best wishes to all those who are following your AP journey with interest. As Team41 said, the construction phase is intense and exciting, but I also get great pleasure in watching my fishies and admiring how the plants are growing, and picking and eating the produce. What great vision and 'get in there and get it done' skills you have. Hope that stucco and sealer hurries up and cures so you can get the water in.

Just a thought on the stucco - I always use my rubber-gloved hands to apply and smooth render as it gives me a much better feel and I can get a really good surface that follows the form (ie. round garden beds, pizza oven, garage walls etc).

Regarding growbeds, if cost is an issue, beware of multiple small beds (ie barrels) as you will need inflow and drain fittings for each one, and that is where the cost can sky rocket. Colum's lined timber GBs on steel frames seem to be the way to go as you can make them as big as you want, unless you can get some cheap IBCs and clad them.

You are nearly there

Looking great Brian!

your comments makes me so very happy
Yes, the big rubber gloves work wonderfully and quickly. CoachChris or maybe it was Floridafish mentioned trying a big spoon, which I did with fairly decent decent results, however this last section had dozens of concave surfaces. Lesson learned. Advice to novice stuccoers cool Disneyland looking ponds are fun looking, but a lot harder to do. Anywho, that part is done, and neat byproduct of the floating (sponging wet stucco to smooth) my arms are bulging like never before.

I kind of figured I'd need to buy a mask and snorkel sooner than later until I get some details right. For my lighting too. I know I should be concerned with the plumbing right now, but OMG, all I want to think about is how I'll place my hue controlled RGB LED submersibles, hehe. I'm a sucker for LEDs
I read in the PDF you sent that we need to leave the SLO pipe joints unglued so we can remove it for inspection, that's my plan. Thank for all your notes. I appreciate your efforts.

Thank you for the praise. I began this project as a way to hedge my paychecks as I move toward retirement. My goal it fresh produce year round here at 7300 feet above sea level, not to mention being able to work inside during the Winter. I hope I am fortunate and am able to stay active well into my seventies. So far the sixties feel pretty sweet

Chris not certain what that is, anyways, we already have the sealer here as well as the Hecth Rubber Koi Pond coating http://www.hechtrubber.com/Pages/FishPondCoatings.htm?gclid=CI6eh9jJ_cQCFQwIaQodOQMAxg As I mentioned to Team41 I've been hedging my paychecks for months buying one gallon at a time from Amazon Prime, love that two day shipping!

Thank you Colum, I just hope my beds come out looking have as good as yours. We've just received our new abrasive chop saw. this weekend I'll put my seat of the pants engineering skills to work building the frame for the first four beds. I will build each one as large as possible to conserve fittings. Thank you all
Brian (Somethings Fishy) Rodgers

Browsing pumps this morning
According to http://www.backyardaquaponics.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1409&hilit=pumps+good+ones&view=viewpoll The Jebao and Laguna are tops.

http://www.jebaopumps.com/jebao-wp3500-1188gph/

Hysteresis (often confused for Mag Drive) super wet rotor 1188 gph submersible pump features a ceramic pump rod for super smooth operation. Contains no seals or messy oils. Pump employs the latest technology in hysterisis style pumps. For submersible operation only. Very powerful unit .
Two adapters included, use 1" or 3\4" or 1\2" ID tubing.
Built-in flow control.

12ft cord

DIMENSIONS
CORD 12 FT
L x W x H 5"(L) x 3.75"(W) x 5"(H),
ELECTRICAL
AMPS 1.5
VOLTS IN 115V AC
WATTS 99
PERFORMANCE
A) 1185 GPH @ 0 FT
B) 1025 GPH @ 4 FT
C) 850 GPH @ 6 FT
D) 760 GPH @ 8 FT
E) 560 GPH @ 10 FT
Shutoff : 13.5 ft

I've got less than 7 feet from the bottom of the sump to the top of the grow beds. Well correction, my proposed design has the outflow of the pump going to three beds before going up and over our French doors to the last two media beds. Hmmm, that is going to mess with pressures and flows. One of those things I suppose we learn as we go, is there is a benefit to keeping every media grow bed at the same height

this baby is nice too. I could better equalize flows and pressures with more lift ability. I can't find the neat lift comparison on this pump like the previous one has.
Item: JPP10000

110V/60Hz AC UL approved Jebao marine salt water pump
marine pump works both in fresh or salt water
Output 2600 gph, 135W, head max high 14.5'
cord length 25 ft.
Pump size: 11"(L)x6.25"(W)x 7"(H)
outlet tube connector 1"(diameter)
intake 1 1/4".
Of course it costs more and uses more power, so I wonder if it wouldn't be prudent to build a manifold style disbursement system to deal with the greater lift over two of the growbeds.

from my Facebook page "so many issues to deal with, not limited to but including: Lift height, most pumps are rated at zero to 2 feet lift, any more lift needed starts adversely affecting the gallons per hour flow rate. We measured our lift, (which brought up another issue I'll talk about later) from the bottom of the sump to the top of the French doors where the pipe needs to travel to the 4th and 5th media grow beds, is, wait for it... 8 feet. It's already time to revise the plan, and I haven't made a plan yet" http://www.facebook.com/brians.outfit

Brian,

Measure from the waterline in the ST to the highest point you are pumping to. That is the head height you need.

Oh good that will cut off two feet

yeah, the head height doesn't have to go to pump, just water level. I think oversizing your pump in almost every application is best. You can always use extra water for aeration, but if you're short on volume/pressure, you're screwed. I have an Aquascape in my AP, it's been a good pump. Over 2 years, no issues. Energy efficient, pumps alot of water.http://www.thepondoutlet.com/home/tpo/p ... -8000.html