Floridafishin's new built in Orlando, Fl

floridafishin

Does anyone know the preferred water velocity, Tilapia like? In other words how fast should the water in the FT be spinning?

floridafishin

Ok so I see my first attempt at newbie humor was a fail. As no one fell for it. (the cycling question) But back to a more serious discussion. I still have some nagging questions.

1. Reading in some aquaculture studies I found that different fish require different amounts of water speed(velocity) in the FT. But I have been unable to find what that rate is for Tilapia. Does anybody know what it is? And how to measure it without costly equipment?

2. I have seen a vertical spreader bar in some of the high end molded fish tanks. What advantage do they have over the normal above the water horizontal bars? All I could see is guaranteed top to bottom aeration, and a constant top to bottom water velocity. Basically is it worth building one? If so I would use some flattened 2" pvc (to help it cut through the water, less resistance), with properly spaced holes. And a venturi tube like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZyrL5Ojqpo in line.

3. Does my latest system design better incorporate the ideal system design? Especially since the MB's will be the only system filtration. By the way only one of the 4 DWC's will be built at this time. The rest will be added on as money allows.

4. What is the long term real life difference between the Lava rock (Scoria) and gravel in a MB? As I have heard that the BSA of the lava rock (scoria) diminishes over time as it get "plugged" with particulates.

Aufin

floridafishin wrote:

:oops: Ok so I see my first attempt at newbie humor was a fail. As no one fell for it. (the cycling question) But back to a more serious discussion. I still have some nagging questions.

1. Reading in some aquaculture studies I found that different fish require different amounts of water speed(velocity) in the FT. But I have been unable to find what that rate is for Tilapia. Does anybody know what it is? And how to measure it without costly equipment?

2. I have seen a vertical spreader bar in some of the high end molded fish tanks. What advantage do they have over the normal above the water horizontal bars? All I could see is guaranteed top to bottom aeration, and a constant top to bottom water velocity. Basically is it worth building one? If so I would use some flattened 2" pvc (to help it cut through the water, less resistance), with properly spaced holes. And a venturi tube like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZyrL5Ojqpo in line.

3. Does my latest system design better incorporate the ideal system design? Especially since the MB's will be the only system filtration. By the way only one of the 4 DWC's will be built at this time. The rest will be added on as money allows.

4. What is the long term real life difference between the Lava rock (Scoria) and gravel in a MB? As I have heard that the BSA of the lava rock (scoria) diminishes over time as it get "plugged" with particulates.

My tilapia seem quite happy with just the surface mivement of the water. Enough for aeration of the water. My setup takes water from one end and returns along the edges and at the oposite end so my water is constantly moving, but quite slow. Oxygen transfer takes place at the surcace of the water. All you need to do is have your return lines above the water so the water "splashes" a little and they should be fine .... depending on your fish population.

As to #2....do what you're comfortable with. I wouldn't expect your fish population to be large enough to justify a lot of fast moving water. I use a small line from the supply side of my pump to bleed off a little of the ex ess water pressure. This serves to mix bottom with top water too as well as creating a very slight current in the tank.

#3.... Is there an "ideal" setup?

#4 .... Can't help you there.

floridafishin

Thanks Aufin,
So your Tilapia do well in slow moving water. How well does the slow moving water push the fish waste to the SLO? It would seem that the faster the current. The faster the tank would self clean. But there has to be an optimal. Fast enough for efficient self cleaning yet slow enough for the fish. The ideal I was referring to was the MB to FT ratio that I was politely told was too small, by Charlie and TCLynx. What media do you have in your MB?

coachchris

Lava rock also is tough to plant in. You can save money by using gravel or course rock for the first 8-9", and then hydroton for the last few inches. Hydroton is a dream to plant and work in. Just push the plant in, and easy to remove also. In Florida, you can buy it at Home Depot for about 30.00 a bag. I think a bag will do 1.5 IBC GB's at 2.5-3". My comparison beds are not to reliable, because the sum amount is effecting growth. I had initially hoped to see which stone produced best results. They are all doing well...providing they get at least 5 hours of sun per day.

floridafishin

Thanks Coach,
Now I know I do not need to buy any more lava rock. The BSA isn't as much of an issue as I had first thought then. So I can skip the expense and get gravel. Now I just have to find a good supplier of bulk gravel, that is devoid of limestone. I have read your thread and want to know how fast do you spin the water in your FT? Slow and steady? Decent current? Or starting a vortex in the middle? (Trying to get a consensus, on water speed for Tilapia)

coachchris

In my existing smaller system, total water volume under 450 gallons, MB of 45 sq ft of cu ft, since they are about 12" deep, and 24 sq ft DWC and a few 5' towers, my Ft water is returned via a 1/2" pipe excess from sump and 1 of the GB's. A design flaw doesn't allow me to drain any other beds into the FT. I still turn water over once an hour, but it's not in any particular pattern. The siphon from the MB drops straight down and the 1/2" pipe from sump is also pretty much vertical. I can't tell you how clean the FT stays, because I use an Fe and Seaweed/Humic acid products that tint the water. Water tests good, and haven't had a fish death in the main tank yet...other then a few jumpers early before covering FT. My fish are large enough now that they keep the tank pretty stirred up. A few have to be getting close to 2 lbs. Appx 40 in my 200 gallon FT is plenty. It's about time to eat some fish!

floridafishin

Coach,
How do you like the towers? I stayed away from them, because on Nate while talking about his Zip Grow towers. Said they are not ideal for our climate because of heat gain, in our warmer months. It is not in the cards for now, as I have enough on my plate at the moment. But I always like to take the opportunity to learn something new. Especially if it consists of first hand, real life, experience.

floridafishin

I was able to pick up my breeding tank last night. 50gal for $50.00. You just have to love craigslist. Now to just find the perfect spot in the house for it :think:

Then this morning I woke up to the one thing none of us wants to see just before going to work. I am loosing water from somewhere. Not quite sure where. Looked at the obvious places. The only place I did not look yet is the Uni Seals connecting my 2 IBC's in my dug in sump. Impossible to repair without loosing ALOT of water. :upset:

I am just hoping and praying that it is just something that I overlooked above ground.

coachchris

FF, honestly, I haven't been overjoyed with the towers. They do work great for strawberries. I get better growth out of MB and DWC. If you didn't seal around the lids in the IBC's, check that for leaks. How much water are you losing per day? With the recent warmer weather, losing several inches in the sump in a day is not pout of the question.

floridafishin

Just a funny thought. The last time I gardened, I was 8. At that time I considered it forced labor. Funny how the times can change your priorities. Now that I have a family and want to give them the best food possible. I doesn't even seem like work. Maybe it is the lack of weeding, tilling, and the back breaking planting and harvesting. Now I am stuck at work thinking about the fish and garden. Just wanting to get back, and keep working :lol:

floridafishin

Coach,
Thanks for the information. I can now cross off towers as a possible future expansion. As for the water loss I lost about 6in in the sumps in a day. If it was a single IBC I would not be worried a bit. But mine are dual so basically I lost an entire foot if I had a single unit.

FarmerMichael

I checked out the states aquaculture site and couldnt figure out if you could culture native fish like crappy and bluegill. Does anyone know the law on it or point me to it? From what I gather you cannot catch , then culture, but I may have read or interpreted what I saw wrong.. Someone set me straight.

floridafishin

Farmer,
One this exact topic you have me stumped. The idea person to get ahold of is Ryan. He is on your side of the state. Knows all the rules and regs. Also if memory serves me well I remembering him saying that he has a supply of "wild tilapia" whenever he needs them. Just PM him. This should move you in the right direction.
viewtopic.php?t=12589#p313057

floridafishin

Farmer,
Just thought did you look on the FWC website? http://myfwc.com/

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Floridafishin's new built in Orlando, Fl

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