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PostPosted: Jun 6th, '14, 03:46 
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you might want to consider adding a buffering agent.. if your ph falls too far below 6.0, the bacteria colony could crash


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PostPosted: Jun 6th, '14, 06:48 
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keith wrote:
you might want to consider adding a buffering agent.. if your ph falls too far below 6.0, the bacteria colony could crash

I think that is the high range test so pH sitting about 7.4. May need to double check with the low ph test though


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PostPosted: Jun 6th, '14, 18:03 
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Thanks guys will test tomoz and take action if need to
PS why does the system crash


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PostPosted: Jun 6th, '14, 22:58 
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I think there is a line of thought that if the ph falls below 6 then the bacteria population can crash. I don't know how true this is as some people on this forum have never used a test kit and have raised many feeds of fish without knowing what the ph is and without any issue.

My trout system is currently sitting on 6 or below and I have been slowly bringing it back up with hydrated lime and potassium bicarbonate. This is necessary as the ph drops in most AP systems over time as a result of the nitrification process


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PostPosted: Jun 6th, '14, 23:08 
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gday ben
I've heard a lot about you but not yet met you. rod has nothing but nice comments on how great you have been helping him. good to have so many nice friendly people around for help an support…
so how do you buffer your system do you buy that stuff locally and how do u apply it . i don't need to now but curious on how you do it for future


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PostPosted: Jun 6th, '14, 23:15 
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G'day hezzy. I bought a 20kg bag of hydrated lime which will probably last for the rest of my life. I just add 1 tablespoon if my ph drops below 6.4. Wait a day then test. If required I add another tablespoon until my ph is back above 6.4. I try and alternate between potassium carbonate and hydrated lime as the potassium is good for assisting flowering and fruiting. I also add shell grit to the system which helps maintain/buffer the ph


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PostPosted: Jun 6th, '14, 23:21 
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wow that sounds great and surprisingly easy ben ,,
when u add shell grit do u put it straight into the tank or hang it in stockings


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PostPosted: Jun 6th, '14, 23:21 
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any advice on what i should do as far as my system with salt goes


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PostPosted: Jun 6th, '14, 23:22 
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have alook if u get the chance
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=21726&start=30


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PostPosted: Jun 7th, '14, 08:00 
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Yes Ben your on the money my pH is at 6.4 I will get pottasium carbanate and some calcium carb today were do you get yours from Ben?


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PostPosted: Jun 7th, '14, 08:13 
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The potassium bicarbonate is called Eco fungicide (aka Eco rose) and the hydrated lime is just brickies lime and comes in 20kg bags. I got mine from the B store.

Ph of 6.4 is okay but try and maintain it between 6.4 and 7. Also when adjusting only by small increments at a time. Wait for a day then test again


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PostPosted: Jun 7th, '14, 08:59 
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Thanks Ben the book I have says the ideal pH range is6.0 to7.0 is that true ?
And it also mentions calcium carbonate would it pay to get that as well


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PostPosted: Jun 7th, '14, 18:53 
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The garden line you have is calcium carbonate. Otherwise try shell grit or a lump of limestone. Putting this in your system will help maintain your ph by buffering with carbonates. I have shell grit in my silver perch tank and that system has been stable for over a year now at ph 6.4. My trout tank dropped to 6 or less recently as a result of heavy feeding. I need to buffer my system with calcium carbonate.


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PostPosted: Jun 7th, '14, 21:39 
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Cheers Ben I now have brickies lime the Eco fungicide and the garden line calcium lime when I need it do I put the powders in the stand pipe to mix with the system?


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PostPosted: Jun 7th, '14, 22:26 
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I usually mix up a tablespoon of hydrated lime in a bucket of water then slowly pour it into the tank while the pump is running constant flow. Keep the pump running to ensure it mixes through the system well


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