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PostPosted: Jun 2nd, '14, 10:39 
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Ideally you want it above 7. I kept mine for over a year and it was winter when they started dropping off. Could be a number of factors like after introducing trout and feed input was higher and pushed my PH down or the developing tail sores from the hard bottom tank was increasing stress and infection. Hard to say.


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PostPosted: Jun 2nd, '14, 11:51 
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tgmitchell wrote:
@Chainsaw -1) I have the SLO setup so there can't be less than 5000l in the FT. 3) I'm confused as to what you're talking aboug in regards to the float switch - mine is on a separate pump in the sump and is set up to stop the sump overflowing.


Shouldn't your SLO be at the top of the tank - therefore the tank should stay at 8000 litres
do you still have a pump in the fish tank?


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PostPosted: Jun 2nd, '14, 14:21 
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Stuart Chignell wrote:
chainsaw wrote:
I have aeration in each fish tank running 24/7 and I can tell you it has saved my fish.

Attachment:
SAM_1665.JPG



They don't look very saved :-P Unless for the cats dinner for later.


Hi Stu I did manage to save 2 out of that tank. In fact Bear gave me a hand to harvest them all (25) 12 months on.

What I meant was the situation did happen again and with the air running (not as a backup) but supplementing. I was able to save fish.


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PostPosted: Jun 2nd, '14, 14:29 
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tgmitchell wrote:
@Chainsaw -1) I do have 2 lithium battery battery backup aerators. 2) I have the SLO setup so there can't be less than 5000l in the FT. 3) I'm confused as to what you're talking aboug in regards to the float switch - mine is on a separate pump in the sump and is set up to stop the sump overflowing.


OK I see, So the sump pump is only there to stop overflows, Whereas I use the sump pump as main source.

Does not matter IMO every system needs separate constant air supply 24/7 to the FT in addition with a backup system. No matter what pump or system you use.


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PostPosted: Jun 4th, '14, 18:16 
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@ Jayendra - It's almost at the top of the tank so the water won't go below about 5000l or so - its a 7000l tank


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PostPosted: Jun 4th, '14, 18:49 
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tgmitchell wrote:
So I stopped the siphon and replaced it with a SLO that's running out the overflow - works great! - can't believe it was so easy...


Good :) and yes I misread the 8000L loss as your fishtank size.


tgmitchell wrote:
@ Chainsaw - my sump is 2000L - have 5000L GB. THe float switch is on and off - built into the pump. There are other ways to aerate - falling water aerates. The RFF is a definite goer.
So now the maximum I can lose if the shit hits the fan is about 3000L (down from 8000L) - And I will still have 5000L in the FT. If the power shuts of I'll lose about 2000L. I reckon that's not too bad in a 12,000L system.


Okay I still don't understand this part.

Do you growbeds drain to the sumps? and then sumps pump to fishtank?

How will you loose water if shit hits the fan or the power goes off.... because if the fish tank is CHIFT (constant height) then it would only be the very top level of the fish tank....

Or are you talking about whats in the growbeds draining into the sumps????

I get confused with your system as there are sumps under the growbeds also?


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PostPosted: Jun 4th, '14, 20:01 
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The growbeds flow into the marron tanks underneath them (which are setup like a normal IBC) - these are plumbed in lines of 5 - they then flow into the sump tanks.

Big pump operates from Sump to FT another big pump from Sump to GB and one more on a flow switch to stop Sump overflowing.

So yes 2000l would be the water that's 'in flow' at any one time.

If the pipes on the marron tanks clog up then 'the shit hits the fan...' - which did happen - so now they are all double plumbed


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PostPosted: Jun 4th, '14, 20:19 
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Ahhh you have CHOP2 system


Ideas for you:
1. Is the fish tank lower than the growbed level? - if not - replumb so the overflow of the fish tank goes to the growbeds and then the sump pumps pump to the fish tank. (probably not an option though this far into your build.)

2. Do you have SLO's in your marron tanks? if not do this and you won't have an overflow problem.

If your fish tank and Maroon tanks have SLO's that exit the top of the tanks, then your in ground sump tanks shouldn't fluctuate much at all. (thats running constant). Or if you run siphons, then the in ground sumps should go up and down, but never overflow.

EDITS
* unless the small percentage above the SLO outlets of all tanks is more than the sumps can handle.
* Do you standpipes have a small hole in the bottom (so if power goes off they completely drain) - if so then you might have an overflow problem

I think I got all that right - someone else might be able to comment on my comments.

* Looking at your facebook photo option 1. isn't an option unless you lower growbeds.
* You have growbeds also underneath growbeds?


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PostPosted: Jun 4th, '14, 20:46 
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TG, Perth is one of the concentrated areas of AP practitioners. If you're still worried I would go into the BYAP store with a diagram and have a discussion regarding your system design with someone there. They're quite a smart bunch. There are also a number of AP people around which may be willing to pop around to your place to take a look and dispense some advice. I think you're moving in the right direction but to have some expert advice never hurt anyone.

Regards, Martin.


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PostPosted: Jun 5th, '14, 03:38 
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Yes - one line of growbeds has growbeds underneath but the overhead ones are plumbed separate to the ones below.

The growbeds are on flood and drain - 30 on, 30 off - hence the 2000l fluctuation. The GBs do completely drain.

The problem with the marron tanks is when leavec (or marron) get jammed in the pipes - so yes i have been thinking of putting SLOs in them - all 14 of them.... it would solve that problem but i'd still lose some water if the power goes off

@Martin - thanks for the advice - I am familiar with BYAP in Jandakot.


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PostPosted: Jun 5th, '14, 05:05 
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No worries TG. Hope it all works out, looking forward to seeing any other mods to the system.

Regards, Martin.


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