Multiple IBC wicking beds joined together

tom77

J.B. wrote:

tom77 wrote:

i just looked it up and it is 'POLYTHENE FILM'... not sure what that means though

probably bad?

Its our known and loved Polyethylene, just thinner. I used it in my wicking beds, doubled up though, as punctures happen.

If it is low density PE it is resistant to leaching, but not as resistant as High density PE like IBCs are. Ironically, it [LDPE] is not used in water bottles here in the states, and makes up the bulk of food packaging films [baggies, cling wrap, glad wrap, etc.] They both are stated to be safe though.

For what it is worth.

Yeah I double bagged it for my wicking bed too… It is also available in different thicknesses, so I tried to find a relatively thick one.

jono81

LDPE is generally safe for potable water

It's what they make the blue striped, black irrigation pipe out of, which conforms to AS/NZS 4020 "Products approved for Use in Contact With Drinking Water"

Just gotta make sure they don't add any toxic plastizers or softeners to it to make the builders plastic flexible? I need to look into this more.

Food&Fish

Charlie wrote:

The one common pipe along a row of beds was done here many moons ago, cant remember who it was... maybe Jamey? I think he used a length of pipe and then drilled holes in it in each bed or something. I can still picture the black tubs he used. Its a neat idea.

The fridges work well too, good use of what might eventually end up land fill. Recycle and reuse.

Try reading from here on
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=663&start=2160

jono81

Thanks for chiming in FF

I read through to page 155.. inspiring stuff

Did you find the milk crates on the bottom better than gravel?

Also did the soil in the middle of those beds get enough water - as the crate would have prevented that soil from making contact with the water reservoir I imagine?

I considered using a float valve to keep my wicking beds topped up, but am concerned about lack of oxygen. I'm currently letting mine dry out between waterings, which is about every 2 weeks at this stage (compared to every second day for my traditional dirt beds)

tom77

jono81 wrote:

Thanks for chiming in FF

I read through to page 155.. inspiring stuff

Did you find the milk crates on the bottom better than gravel?

Also did the soil in the middle of those beds get enough water - as the crate would have prevented that soil from making contact with the water reservoir I imagine?

I considered using a float valve to keep my wicking beds topped up, but am concerned about lack of oxygen. I'm currently letting mine dry out between waterings, which is about every 2 weeks at this stage (compared to every second day for my traditional dirt beds)

I made my bed with milk crates too ( I copied FF ) and the solid doesn't dry out in the middle for me

Charlie

Aah yes, thanks Milne.

Food&Fish

jono81 wrote:

Thanks for chiming in FF

I read through to page 155.. inspiring stuff

Did you find the milk crates on the bottom better than gravel?

Also did the soil in the middle of those beds get enough water - as the crate would have prevented that soil from making contact with the water reservoir I imagine?

I considered using a float valve to keep my wicking beds topped up, but am concerned about lack of oxygen. I'm currently letting mine dry out between waterings, which is about every 2 weeks at this stage (compared to every second day for my traditional dirt beds)

No it doesn't dry out jt delesky in us uses them to with great results
On the one with the big pumpkin in it it needs watering twice a day on those 40 plus days
that pumpkin has gone to 45 ft long now and it doesn't look like stopping
By all means use the float valve as long as theres an air void under the soil like the milk crates
With these wicking beds and big plants like the punkin they need quite a bit of feeding its easy for the plants to use all the available food
In the start of the growing season I probley used a box of thrive every 2 weeks
Now I just give them a lick of seasol every week

jono81

Thanks FF.. milk crates sound like the way to go then. Will give them a shot at some point, when I find a source to buy them, thanks

LJohnSaw

jono81 wrote:

DecalsbyJT wrote:

one easy way to level over long distances is to use a piece of clear tubing, put water in it....

pull it along your distance and stake up the open ends vertically and add water, the water will find its own level and you can measure from each end....

That's a great idea. Will try that, thanks

One more tip - Add some food coloring to the water in the hose/tube. Makes it MUCH easier to see the water level. Take two yard (meter) sticks and attach the ends of the tube to them with zip ties. You also might do well to zip tie a large spike on the end so you can stick it in the ground. I usually work alone so that comes in handy. VERY accurate way to level an area. Ok, more than one tip

Backyard Aquaponics A place to discuss aquaponics

Multiple IBC wicking beds joined together

Backyard Aquaponics
A place to discuss aquaponics