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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '14, 10:36 
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I think any bit of shade should help, colours. I really hope you get some results


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '14, 11:13 
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Thanks Charlie I'm sure everyone is sick of reading about it. I just hope I find a solution so I am able to help similar-minded folk not make the same mistakes i have.


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '14, 11:38 
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lol yea well then Stuart is very right that would be way to fast to clean the water well at full speed, you may have to throttle it a bit.
perhaps you could place some removable filers in to a container through which the water passes before the grow beds (some to over flow back to the pool and some to flow through the beds)
with 3 or 4 removable filters in line so that they could be pulled out and cleaned in a few seconds.
if you have light you will get algae

if you have algae you may not get nitrate readings even if there is plenty because the algae could be taking up all there is, if you plant plants you want, they could remove some nitrates and trace elements also slowing the growth of algae


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '14, 19:52 
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Pool in approx 99% shade still green. Only thing left to do is put in a growbed which involves bobcat, some concreting, aggregate and pool fence relocation.

Honest opinions please, do I cut my losses and toss in the chlorine at this stage or will a 10m growbed solve all?


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '14, 22:02 
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Honestly?
It's a lot of water, you need a lot of filtration.

If you're going to throw in the towel do it at the start of summer, not the end...

Build the gb but build it with a backup plan utilising a different ft.


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '14, 22:26 
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I appreciate yr honesty skeggly. So I need massive amounts of filtration even tho my stocking density is proportionately smaller than with an AP system?

I know what you mean about the end of summer. I'm stumped though. Of all the koi farms I've been to with much higher stocking densities than mine, their water is crystal clear. Yes they have biofilters, but they only remove ammonia and nitrite, but leave behind nitrate. IMO that dies nothing to remove phosphate and nitrite that the bacteria love.

There's a missing piece to the puzzle, what the hell is it?

Funny thing is my aquatic plants are doing really poorly, even duckweed won't grow in it.

Bah humbug.


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '14, 22:38 
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http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gOcsKvjpVbo

Just found this interesting clip about pool filter sand changing and why. If the sand is all clogged up, the water runs down the sides of the filter and straight back into your pool. Back washing only removes the top layer of crud. This could be my prob cause when I back flush the water isn't all that dirty, not like it used to be. So this gives me hope.

If I were to change the sand in my filter should I replace it with sand or something coarser. I have read on the forum to use some shell grit but there were some differences of opinion over pH changes. My concern is that the grit will eventually dissolve, leaving me with nothing. Or not be fine enough to filter. Could I use the left over scoria I have or should I just turn off my sand filter and rely on the growbed.

I'm going to bed, make all my best decisions in my sleep.


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '14, 23:22 
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I would go with scoria. The biofilm that will develop on it will catch the junk in the water, and it does not clog. At least not as easily as sand. From what I have been reading, natural pools want a lot of gravel. Apparently more gravel than swimming space.
What are your water parameters?
In your quest to destroy this algae, did you make some kind of super algae?
Is this a sign of the apacolyspe?

You probably only need to answer one of those questions...


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PostPosted: Mar 23rd, '14, 15:30 
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Ronmaggi I will choose the easiest question to answer. Rather than the apocalypse, maybe I've found a method of carbon sequestration that will save us all?

As for parameters, I don't like to test them because looking at the pool is a constant reminder to me of the proverbial storm that I have created. But for the benefit of the poor souls following the thread I Will test tomorrow and report back. I also have a bath tub lying around which would make a perfect experimental growbed, albeit a small one, 200 L of scoria would be a decent indicator for me if it will improve the situation or not.

Stay tuned for the next chapter in the never ending saga... Even I'm getting bored with it...


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PostPosted: Mar 23rd, '14, 18:19 
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Colours - have you considered running a UV clarifier to kill off the algae?

I know Pondmax produce a 40 watt model which is rated for a pond of up to 40 000 litres

Bar complete shading, UV clarifiers are the fastest and safest method I've found to kill off algae, and despite some the myths, won't destroy your nitrifiying bacteria colony

Doesn't have to run all the time - just till the algae is under control


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PostPosted: Mar 23rd, '14, 18:41 
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jono81 wrote:
Colours - have you considered running a UV clarifier to kill off the algae?


Yep, that was 4 pages back


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PostPosted: Mar 23rd, '14, 19:28 
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Yeah Jono its an epic, I don't expect anyone to follow it closely. But yes I have I think it was combined 140w of UV running 24/7. It did clear it initially but it's now murky. I wonder if putting scoria in my pump will work. Posting now..,


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PostPosted: Mar 23rd, '14, 20:19 
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Come on Colours, can't stop now.

more grow beds, more shade and more time?

I understand the magnitude of your project, it's huge.

Bear in mind that some people struggle with a 20 litre FT,


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PostPosted: Mar 24th, '14, 12:47 
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Check out this link Colour
http://www.floatingislandinternational.com/
We have the same algal issues on our main farm water supply which is a freshwater soak. Considering installing a floating island and floating dock for the kids to fish from.


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PostPosted: Mar 24th, '14, 13:17 
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What about throwing in a stack of fish that eat the algae? Like pleco's or something. Enough of them should keep it under control?


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