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PostPosted: Jan 28th, '14, 11:56 
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Before you resize anything, try the straight standpipe first, without the reducer on the top. While Affnan style standpipes are popular Scotty, I've been making and testing auto siphon kits for a few years now and I only put a reducer on the smallest version, the 15mm, and only when it's going into a small GB of about 50L or less, it just gives a slightly wider operating window in regards to GB in-flow rate. On standpipes of 20mm or greater I've found the reducers don't make much difference at all and are unnecessary... see pic below... not a reducer in sight.

If you are thinking about purchasing expanded clay... only get quality German clay... don't buy no-name brands, or Chinese/Thai clays.


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Resize of Perth Aquaponics - Auto Bell Siphon standpipe.jpg
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PostPosted: Jan 28th, '14, 12:20 
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I guess I think of it not as a reducer but as a way to increase the draw down at the standpipe by increasing the area that the water can flow in. Sounds like you've got it figured out, I'll let you run with this Mr D., as I said it's been awhile.


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PostPosted: Jan 28th, '14, 12:39 
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Wow, you even make your own pipes there, Yabbies. Is that just a sample piece or do you get yours supplied with the biz name printed on them? Pretty cool. I want pipes with my name printed on them!
:)


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PostPosted: Jan 28th, '14, 12:59 
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Yeh, that terminology is probably a bit confusing Scotty, sorry. It may sound like I'm referring to reducing the diameter of the main standpipe, but when I say reducer I'm referring to the spout on top of the standpipe, what you call the adaptor. I refer to it as a reducer only because that's what they're called in our parts catalogue. As an example, the reducer, or adaptor I put on top of our 15mm standpipes is a 25mm-15mm reducer.

I wish Charlie, it's called photoshop mate... :mrgreen:... I do it to most of my pics... in an attempt to stop them ending up in an AP4U (or similar) advert or product, or other websites. I started doing when I stumbled across a couple of my pics on Gumtree a couple of years back.


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PostPosted: Jan 28th, '14, 13:08 
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Ah, nice one.


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PostPosted: Jan 28th, '14, 19:19 
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Yabbies, have you tried using a watermark? They're even more effective as it is obvious that ownership is stated whereas if I saw your pipe pic I would not realise that the pic does not belong.

Charlie! The move must be imminent buddy?


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PostPosted: Jan 29th, '14, 00:13 
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In regards to the clay.....are the bags labeled as to point of origin? Is there a way to tell if it's the good stuff?

The weather here is turning nasty, so not sure if I'll get a chance to do much around here this week. Back to work tomorrow, so will probably be next week before I get back out there. Don't you just hate how work always seems to get in the way of what you really want to be doing?


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PostPosted: Jan 29th, '14, 00:45 
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Another quick question......

I know not to use copper anywhere in the system, but what about brass? I'm thinking instead of using PVC ball valves, maybe using a brass gate valve such as below....

Sometimes the PVC valves are very hard to adjust in small increments, and was thinking that this type of valve would allow for more control and easier adjustments. They're a little more expensive, but in my opinion it would be worth it. As long as it's safe for the system.


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File comment: Is brass a safe material for the system, in place of PVC ball valves?
Brass Gate Valve (reduced).jpg
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PostPosted: Jan 31st, '14, 15:00 
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MartinC wrote:
Yabbies, have you tried using a watermark? They're even more effective as it is obvious that ownership is stated whereas if I saw your pipe pic I would not realise that the pic does not belong.

I've thought about it Martin, but couldn't find any freeware, and the programs started from about $400


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PostPosted: Jan 31st, '14, 15:57 
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Lizard wrote:
Another quick question......

I know not to use copper anywhere in the system, but what about brass? I'm thinking instead of using PVC ball valves, maybe using a brass gate valve such as below....

Sometimes the PVC valves are very hard to adjust in small increments, and was thinking that this type of valve would allow for more control and easier adjustments. They're a little more expensive, but in my opinion it would be worth it. As long as it's safe for the system.


I've seen PVC versions of gate valves - then you would not have to worry - plus they are cheaper than the brass. Though this should not be a concern in AP (low flows of grit-free water), gate valves are designed to be either fully open or fully closed. Running in an in-between state (with not-so-clean water) can cause wear on both the gate and the sealing surface. I used to irrigate from a stream bed and there was always grit in the water to wear everything. So long as you don't need to completely close the valve, it would be of no concern here.


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PostPosted: Jan 31st, '14, 16:39 
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Damn, I didn't know it was that expensive. :shock:


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PostPosted: Feb 17th, '14, 04:43 

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Lizard wrote:
I haven't found the expanded clay locally, so may end up using river rocks or pea gravel. I think I can get 'ViaStone' shipped to store for free, but it's kinda pricey.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Viagrow-50-l ... /202985175



Lizard, I found a place in Jacksonville that sells gravel and lavarock by the cubic yard. I will be calling tomorrow to get some pricing and weight estimates. If you are interested I can post what I find here.


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PostPosted: Feb 17th, '14, 06:39 
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Lizard wrote:
Another quick question......

I know not to use copper anywhere in the system, but what about brass? I'm thinking instead of using PVC ball valves, maybe using a brass gate valve such as below....

Sometimes the PVC valves are very hard to adjust in small increments, and was thinking that this type of valve would allow for more control and easier adjustments. They're a little more expensive, but in my opinion it would be worth it. As long as it's safe for the system.


Brass is an alloy consisting of copper and zinc...


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PostPosted: Feb 18th, '14, 00:54 
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I've decided to stick with the PVC valves. Thanks for all the input.

Dad24girls, I would be interested in what you find out on pricing. I've got a small truck, and may be worth it to drive down. Would be willing to split costs.

Haven't had the time to do much with the system lately, except for drawing out plans on paper.....I'm starting my designs based on enclosing everything in a 20' wide greenhouse, expandable in 12' deep sections. Starting with 20' x 12', with the first expansion taking me to 20' x 24', and so on.....up to 84' deep.

I'm shooting for a system with a total of 30 IBC totes, cut in two. Using the top portion for media filled grow beds draining into it's own bottom sump. The sumps would be plumbed together to return water to FT. In each individual sump I'm wanting to have a few crawfish.

I'm playing with the idea of constructing a trough out of a concrete slab and cinderblock. I know it would need to be sealed on the inside, but I'm thinking in the long run it would be cheaper than purchasing plastic tanks and associated plumbing. This would be used for a few floating rafts along with housing more crawfish.

I haven't figured out how I want everything plumbed, especially the concrete trough (if I go this route). I've drawn a quick (rough) image to help visualize what I'm after. Obviously, it's not pretty, and it's not complete. In the drawing, the trough on the left is 12' long. This will allow me to expand in sections. The FT & ST will be in the first 12' section at front of greenhouse. This area will also house the breeding tanks, hospital tanks, fingerlings, as well as storage for fish food and other supplies.

The green spots are the grow beds, and the blue are the sumps. The white in between are where they overlap.

I still need to figure out the size of the FT needed to allow for the 30 beds. I was looking at a 1500 gal water storage tank such as http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/w ... k-1500-gal
Not sure if this is adequate or if I need to go larger.


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Rough Draft 12 foot section.jpg
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PostPosted: Feb 18th, '14, 01:05 

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Lizard wrote:
Dad24girls, I would be interested in what you find out on pricing. I've got a small truck, and may be worth it to drive down. Would be willing to split costs.


Red Lava is $172 per cubic yard at a weight of 1000lbs from Stone Plus (http://www.stoneplus.com). I am still in the planning stages (unfortunately, the more I plan the bigger I think) so not sure when I would need to get the grow media


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