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 Post subject: DWC (DFT) pros and cons
PostPosted: Mar 2nd, '07, 11:20 
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I just read your post to me on AAs thread. I was busy here posting to you.

Yes, I was lucky to spot the plastic peg board at 'Home Depot'. It is stiff and does a great job of supporting media in a filter. Of course if you like drilling your own holes....? :lol: Actually, it is always better if you can make something you already have work. Buying two peg boards set me back $25US. I have spent way too much! More junk yard and less stores would have saved a bunch.

I saw a DWC system in Alberta, Canada (they called it Deep Flow Technology [DFT]). Dr. Nick Savidov had this system working beautifully with Tilapia and many kinds of plants in a cold climate like mine. It was that experience that moved me from my plan to do an S&S Aquafarm F&D system with pea gravel to DWC (I even bought the gravel before I switched). The DWC system has a drawback that I will evaluate. That is the susceptability to pythium developing in the roots of long term plants like tomatoes. I will stay with DWC until I have a problem. If I have pythium problems, I will switch to F&D gravel. My growbed will work either way. :)


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 Post subject: Re: Nova's DWC system
PostPosted: Mar 8th, '07, 10:21 
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I got a GH and KH test kit on the weekend and tested the water this morning. The pH had been low (got down to 6.4) but it was back at 7 today.

I have put about 1 1/2 cups of shell grit into the system and this seems to have worked. The GH was 11 and the KH 4. I tested rain water (it was 0) and bore water (GH 27, KH 11) just for fun. I would add some bore water to increase the hardness but it is slightly salty (1400ppm) so I don't think I should.

Still need to get the plant side of things setup, the nitrates are up to 30 - 40 ppm.

Nova


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PostPosted: Mar 8th, '07, 10:27 
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Nova,
1400ppm for the salt would work out to 1.4 ppt, right? That's a nice theraputic level of salt for fishies, and wouldn't bother most plants. I wouldn't worry about supplementing rain water with bore water.

Of course, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. ;)


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 Post subject: Pictures
PostPosted: Mar 8th, '07, 10:36 
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Here are some pictures, one of the fish and one of the larger shellgrit bits on the surface of the gravel (the smaller bits have fallen down the gaps).


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PostPosted: Mar 8th, '07, 10:39 
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janetpelletier wrote:
1400ppm for the salt would work out to 1.4 ppt, right? That's a nice theraputic level of salt for fishies, and wouldn't bother most plants. I wouldn't worry about supplementing rain water with bore water.

Hi Janet, I have trouble growing strawberries in my garden because of the salt in the bore water. Maybe I am being a bit overcautious, I may add some next top up.

Nova


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PostPosted: Mar 8th, '07, 10:41 
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I reckon Big Mick will have a few snivvels when he see's his beautiful goldies LOL


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PostPosted: Mar 8th, '07, 10:47 
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Yeah, they are ripper fish. One died last weekend, so I am down to 12. I may have to get them some friends. That reminds me, I still haven't put some of the catfish in with them yet. Must put it on the list for the weekend.

Nova


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '07, 16:22 
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Well I got the Tandans in with the goldies on the weekend and they seem to be doing fine. After keeping to the bottom of the tank for a couple of days they now actively come up nearly to the top after pellets when I feed. I now need to put a bit of feed in at once so the goldfish don't eat it as soon as it hits the water and there is some left slowly sinking for the catties.

I haven't tested the water lately, but it is still nicely clear (did I mention that translucent tanks are bad for algae problems?). I added a couple of silverbeet in small netpots floating on the surface where the bubbles from the venturi are. They are still small, but hopefully remove some nitrates soon.

[edit] changed statement about translucent/opaque tanks as I had them mixed around [/edit]

Nova


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '07, 17:55 
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Intersting thought on the opaque tanks Nova, hadn't really thought about it, and I know someone who's just set up a system using one... Might suggest they try and paint it or cover it in some way..


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '07, 21:35 
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um.......opaque means "impenetrable by light; not transparent or translucent."


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '07, 21:39 
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oooppppssss...... I always get that wrong.... :?

And viscous, I get that wrong too... Is more viscous, more like a liquid, or is less viscous more like a liquid?


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '07, 21:41 
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high viscosity is very liquid.

just on the opaque thing. did u get it wrong too nova? i've found that black works much better than translucent.


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '07, 21:57 
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Hello Steve.

High viscosity means thick like syrup. A low viscosity oil is thin. Actually, viscosity is more a measure of resistance to flow and high viscosity means high resistance to flow. But thick and thin usually follow.

Being an engineer in 'auto town', you hear a lot about viscosity. :wink:


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '07, 21:59 
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see, i'm fallible too! LOL

thanks for the correction! i was going to google it first but i thought i was sure! Obviously not :)


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '07, 22:01 
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hahahahahaha.......... Tricky bloody words...... ;)


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