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PostPosted: Feb 21st, '07, 05:17 
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Nice work VB, was that about 24 hours to get back to zero?


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PostPosted: Feb 21st, '07, 12:07 
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AP - PH up is bicarb.

It is not ideal because of sodium content (too much could harm plants) but is good for what I have needed to achieve.


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PostPosted: Feb 21st, '07, 20:33 
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I am intent on pushing the boundaries a bit - so now I know that my ammonia and nitrite are staying within a safe range, even while I battle to increase the PH a bit, I am feeding good quanitities of food to the fish each night (not as much as I could - but a decent quantity all the same).

I know the nitrates are high, but I am prepared to push them higher to see what the tolerance of the perch is. In the past my experience has been that they stop being too interested in the food once the nitrate is too high. At the moment they are still very interested.


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PostPosted: Feb 21st, '07, 22:09 
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Thats the way VB!

The only reason i don't have an abundance of large SP is because i enjoyed pushing the boundaries outside the norm to see how far we can go..............Take one for the team.

Am interested in what NO3 the fish get grumpy at, my SP were at around the 300ppm mark


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PostPosted: Feb 21st, '07, 22:12 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Love it ...take one for the team


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PostPosted: Feb 26th, '07, 19:56 
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A quick update:

I managed to get the ph back up to about 6.8/7 through gradual addition of bi-carb (ph up). Have maintained a good rate of feeding and have not had ammonia or nitrite creep higher than .25 (reading tonight was 0 on both).

On the weekend I did a water change of sorts. I removed about 200 litres into my duckweed pond and about 150 litres into a container I will be using for DWC once I get my arse into gear.

I replaced the 350-400 litres with tap water (neutralised of course). With removal of this water I of course also removed quite a bit of the bi-carb that was bufferring my system and I also expect the ph of the tap water is on the low side of ph. The result is that tonight the PH is back to 6 or maybe lower. I have added more bicarb - but must get to the prodice shop soon to get a heap more shell grit to put in the system.

It looks like ph is going to be an ongoing battle - particularly if I plan to remove and replace water at all - which was my intention so taht I could utilise some of the nitrogen rich water on my dirt veggie patch.

Who is using lime to raise PH? What type of lime do you use - ie what is it sold as?


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PostPosted: Feb 26th, '07, 19:57 
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BTW - fish are very healthy and always feed very well.


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '07, 03:54 
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VB check out this site for ph buffering with out sodium problems
http://rps.uvi.edu/AES/Aquaculture/nutrients.html

Aussieponic


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '07, 05:07 
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I noted that Wilson lennard uses that method too of buffering, adding a little every day, plus the added benefit of added potassium, which we have seemed to conclude is deficient.


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '07, 07:04 
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just go the JP method! JP, how many pounds of carbonate do you have in your tank again?


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '07, 07:55 
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Thanks guys - so where does one get potassium hydroxide (KOH) or calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)2).


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '07, 08:27 
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28 pounds (12.7kg) of crushed shell in a system of about 125 gallons (500liters)!

My pH has crept up to 7.4, but my bio-load should be kicking in about now to pull it back down.


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '07, 14:37 
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How about calcium carbonate? I can get this from the produce shop - it is used in horse feed.


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '07, 14:38 
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Janet - that's a lot of of shell - I just bought 5kg for my system.


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '07, 14:45 
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Quote:
Calcium Carbonate is ideal for increasing the hardness of water and providing a calcium source for growing aquarium inhabitants. Overstocked tanks often have depleted calcium levels due to the rapid uptake of this nutrient from the water. Calcium compounds act as a buffer in the water resisting pH changes and keeping the water alkaline.


From here

This info - also from the same place:

Quote:
Hardness Scale for Aquarium Water

0-2 dH = ultra-soft water, not used by itself in aquariums (mix with hard water)
3-8 dH = Soft water, (used for rain forest fish)
9-15 dH = Moderate hard water, (used for many Asian fish)
15-20 dH = Hard water (goldfish and minnows)
>20 dH = Very hard water, (used for rift lake cichlids)

Each degree of Hardness (dH) is equivalent to 30milligrams of calcium carbonate (30ppm calcium carbonate(0.03ppt))


Does anybody know what I should aim for with perch?


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