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PostPosted: Feb 12th, '13, 14:35 
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RupertofOZ wrote:
Yeah, I read the initial post as someone having said that the bacteria required above 64 (18).. for plant growth...

Certainly when cycling.. the optimal range is 18-25 (64-77)... but that's primarily for the nitrosomonas initial conversion of ammonia to nitrite...

Nitrosomonas are relatively slow growing... taking days to double in population...

But Nitrobacter... or more correctly... Nitrospira... can double their population in hours.... and have a much wider temperature range.. effectively 0-35....

That's why you see a rapid conversion of nitrites to nitrates... and cycling completion.... essentially regardless of the temperatures.... but not before the temperature related ammonia to nitrite conversion...

The nitrite to nitrate conversion... is inhibited by ammonia... and wont begin until ammonia is effectively zero....

The lower the temperature... the slower the growth of the Nitrosomonas... the longer the cycling...

But your plants can/will still grow through out... just give them a dash of Seasol.. during the cycling period...



Thank you very much, didnt know that.


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PostPosted: Feb 13th, '13, 03:21 
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Going back to the title of this thread, as far as preppers/prepping AP probably isn't the way to go unless you have a lot of money for a cache of replacement parts. Pumps, solar panels, charge controllers, PVC stored out of the sun, primer/glue (however long it will last on the shelf), etc.

Of course you could go low tech and have backup hand pumps and enough people to go pump the water manually for 15 minutes every hour :-)


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PostPosted: Feb 13th, '13, 23:21 
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My average water temp has been 48 F recently and I'm getting plenty of lettuce, other greens, and radishes along with seedlings that are growing slowly but steadily. Besides the cold, there probably isn't much nitrate around, since the fish aren't eating much.


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PostPosted: Feb 14th, '13, 07:22 
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I also have temps in the lower 40s at night with plants cruising along at the pace that they will
I'm eating as much mustards, parsley, cilantro as I want daily


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PostPosted: Feb 15th, '13, 20:08 
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Thanks for all the responses. It's good to know that the temp issue pertains mostly to cycling. Now that heat is not a concern the only prepper concern would would be a pump. That can be managed. Lots of guys use 12 volt pumps. My current pump is only 75 watt pump. Or could go to air foil pump setup.


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '13, 12:37 

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Have you looked into a rocket stove? You ought to be able to warm your water pretty efficiently with one of those. I know y'all have trees in Alabama. The great thing about rocket stoves is that they can use tree trimmings and long limbs rather than needing to cut down trees to feed them.


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '13, 12:42 
You've still got to feed them into the rocket stove all night though... :lol:


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '13, 14:43 
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Cooking oil burner would be the best way to go when it comes to heating, me thinks anyway.


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PostPosted: Feb 28th, '13, 17:23 
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RupertofOZ wrote:
The nitrite to nitrate conversion... is inhibited by ammonia... and wont begin until ammonia is effectively zero....

Do you have a link to some documentation on this? Not saying it's untrue, but with most fishless cycling routines people continue to maintain 4-5ppm ammonia throughout the entire cycling process regardless of nitrite levels. This method seems to suit them so it has a good working reputation.

Another thing that no one has mentioned is the plants ability to uptake NH4 directly, so plants aren't just sitting around going Nitrogen deficient because there isn't any No3 in the system yet.


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PostPosted: Feb 28th, '13, 17:35 
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As far as I am aware, and I could be corrected on this, there are a few plants that can use NH4 directly, most can't.


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PostPosted: Feb 28th, '13, 20:47 
jetajockey wrote:
RupertofOZ wrote:
The nitrite to nitrate conversion... is inhibited by ammonia... and wont begin until ammonia is effectively zero....

Do you have a link to some documentation on this? Not saying it's untrue

I've got links somewhere... I'll try and find them...

But search for papers by Hovanec et al... with relation to Nitrospira...

Quote:
but with most fishless cycling routines people continue to maintain 4-5ppm ammonia throughout the entire cycling process regardless of nitrite levels. This method seems to suit them so it has a good working reputation.

It's just not possible.... and illogical.. to say that you can hold the ammonia level at 4-5... through out the "cycling process"....

The cycling process isn't complete... until all the ammonia has been converted to nitrites... and the nitrites converted to nitrates....

And, as above the nitrite to nitrate conversion doesn't begin until the ammonia is near zero... indeed the nitrite rise/spike... is inversely dependant on falling ammonia...as it's converted...

There's a lot of confusing nonsense, particularly on many of the aquaria sites... regarding cycling in general.. and fishless cycling in particular...

When you have a look at most of the graphed charts of the cycling process... they exhibit essentially the same curve patterns in relation to the three components....

Quote:
Another thing that no one has mentioned is the plants ability to uptake NH4 directly, so plants aren't just sitting around going Nitrogen deficient because there isn't any No3 in the system yet.


You're correct... that young seedling... before leaf development... primarily uptake ammonium NH3+...

But once leaf development and photosynthesis begins... growth is primarily by nitrate uptake/transport...

There are some plants... duckweed is the most commonly known.. that grow based on ammonium through out their growth life span...


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PostPosted: Feb 28th, '13, 22:45 
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Quote:
When you have a look at most of the graphed charts of the cycling process... they exhibit essentially the same curve patterns in relation to the three components....


I thought that was because the graph data is produced by adding a fixed amount of ammonia in one event, rather than adding the ammonia continually as in a fishless cycling scenario. The graph for adding ammonia continually over a period would probably look similar but the curves would be harder to add up to the original amount (the area under the curves) - one shot of ammonia makes a clearer story? :dontknow:


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PostPosted: Feb 28th, '13, 23:09 
Dave Donley wrote:
I thought that was because the graph data is produced by adding a fixed amount of ammonia in one event, rather than adding the ammonia continually as in a fishless cycling scenario. The graph for adding ammonia continually over a period would probably look similar but the curves would be harder to add up to the original amount (the area under the curves) - one shot of ammonia makes a clearer story? :dontknow:

Not sure what you mean Dave....

If you're cycling with fish... the fish are continually adding ammonia... but not usually to the levels that people add to when fishless cycling....

But even when fishless cycling.. done properly... there's no reason, or benefit.. to pushing the ammonia beyond 4ppm...

And once at that level... no sense in adding anymore.. until the initial ammonia has been processed...

Continually adding ammonia.. just inhibits the nitrification of the nitrites... prolonging the nitrite spike....

You see people reporting that their nitrites haven't moved.. for anything up to a month... either becaue they've overdosed the ammonia... added more... or are under oxygenated... or all of the above...

The bottom line is... regardless... look at any graph... and the nitrites will rise almost inversely... to the fall in the ammonia.... and the nitrates wont really begin to rise until ammonia is zero.. and nitrites peaking.. and beginning to fall... when the nitrates then rise exponentially...


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PostPosted: Mar 1st, '13, 03:01 
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This isn't the best graph or link (couldn't find a great one) but these lines would not overlap if nitrobacter didn't do anything until all the ammonia was converted to nitrite. The orange line goes up before the red line goes to zero. If ammonia suppressed the nitrite to nitrate step a lot then the orange line would wait until the red line was zero.

Maybe the idea is that "large" ammonia levels inhibit the nitrite->nitrate conversion, but "regular" ones are fine?


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PostPosted: Mar 1st, '13, 03:53 
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Nitrite to nitrate is the green line not the orange line. That is why it stays so low until the red line is basically zero.

Dave Donley wrote:
This isn't the best graph or link (couldn't find a great one) but these lines would not overlap if nitrobacter didn't do anything until all the ammonia was converted to nitrite. The orange line goes up before the red line goes to zero. If ammonia suppressed the nitrite to nitrate step a lot then the orange line would wait until the red line was zero.

Maybe the idea is that "large" ammonia levels inhibit the nitrite->nitrate conversion, but "regular" ones are fine?


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