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PostPosted: Sep 13th, '12, 21:48 
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Sorry, Mr Bill. Wasn't trying to point a finger, just share a recent story.I really wanted an electrocution emoticon (although, I don't really see a need for one beyond that comment) but settled for the stupid one. It was meant for the gal who grabbed the live wire, not for your intentions.
If I ever anger you again, just know it wasn't intentional and go kick a goat to get it out of yur system. :)


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PostPosted: Sep 13th, '12, 22:22 
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Angry? Not at all, not at all.

I just think in sarcasm. Been that way my whole life. And... most of the time it gets me in trouble. :blackeye: Just have to be careful when I post that I don't aquire foot-in-mouth disease.

Somtimes my humor is seen as sarcasm. Sometimes my sarcasm is seen as humorous.
:banghead:

Sometimes I just can't win.


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PostPosted: Sep 14th, '12, 00:37 
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SnowT wrote:
iammr.bill wrote:
Have the power and data boards up and the power side wired in. Just need to pound the ground rods in the ground and wiring the ground wire to them. I figure I'd put two rods in the ground at least 8 feet apart. We do get some lightning around here.


Hey Mister-Bill Just use 1 ground rod as 2 rod's could cause problem's if there is a short in the system..
If each rod is at a different potential. you could create a zone of electrification.. as the charge travels thru the ground from on rod to the next..

1 Ground Point is All you really need..

Juergen


Dunno dude. I'll do some research on it before pounding in the rods and connecting them. I just don't know much about grounding, just that we get lightning around here and it's rough on the wallet to have to buy replacement network equipment.


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PostPosted: Sep 15th, '12, 09:41 
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Hey I'm not say to not put one in at the termination Point.. At the distance from the house to termination that is Fine...

Now here is the But..
- 2 Earth point's at the termination is asking for Problem..

<< As an electrician.. 1 ground steak of sufficient size and depth is all you need.. 13-15mm Copper clad steak of about 1.5-1.7m in length[Has to pounded into the ground], is what we use here.. connected by a sufficient sized Earth conductor.. 6mm [Which Looks to be about the size you have used..]

---->> EDIT just had a real Quick Look at your photo's of the Power/data/camera station.. If I get it.. 2 metal post in the ground[Not connected to each other By a conductive material] they need to be earthed to the central[Main earth] Bar... Metal can/may be become "LIVE" in an incident..

Hope this helps quantify my comment..

Juergen..

Psst we have slightly different Regulation's in OZ[Vic]..


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PostPosted: Sep 15th, '12, 10:37 
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I'm still open to suggestions at this point.
The green wire will have to be removed as it is stranded. Need solid wire to replace that. The ground poles that I have won't work either.
As for the metal posts that hold the boards, they are not commected to any other metal. Their purpose is just to hold up the backboards.
Here in Georgia, we have hard clay so that needs figured in.
The network and coax connections aren't connected to the power in any way and that would be the only thing that lightning might take out.. I figure to just have a ground source for those items and let the house grounding take care of the greenhouse power.


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PostPosted: Sep 15th, '12, 11:53 
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Solid or Stranded Should not matter.. with regard to Earthing..

In OZ Green/yellow stripe wire = Earth Wire.. they actually Prefer stranded.. As it give them the chance to see if the cable has been Damaged in anyway.. Also if a strand Break's off you still have other strands in play.. solid if it breaks it not connected therefore bad..


Juergen


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PostPosted: Sep 15th, '12, 17:19 
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Also something like this might be handy..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2P-10-20KA-Din-Rail-Surge-Protection-Lightning-Arrester-/300629795453?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45feeea27d

You could even make something like this yourself...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HF-Antenna-Adjustable-Arc-Gap-Lightning-Protection-/261098004026?pt=US_Radio_Comm_Antennas&hash=item3ccaa75e3a
Its just an arc/spark gap. You just need to get the distance approximately correct (smaller better than larger)
If it gets hit the ends just need to be cleaned/sanded..


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PostPosted: Sep 15th, '12, 22:15 
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Thanks for the links... But now I have a more immediate problem.

Was working on the rocket heater and noticed something...

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PostPosted: Sep 16th, '12, 02:35 
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Well, so much for that tank. I'm in the process of trading it out for a couple of stock tanks. One is 200 gallon, one is 150 gallon. Small pump so it takes a while to swap the water from the rectangular tank over to a holding tank so I can move the big tank. Then work the stock tanks into place and transfer the water over to them. Good thing there is only a few golfish in those tanks.

Meanwhile, the rocket heater is coming along pretty well. Need to cut one of my chimney pipes down to size, then pack the insulation between them. Probably will be at my energy limit soon. Nothing that can't wait until another day.

Pics later.


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PostPosted: Sep 16th, '12, 05:50 
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First things first - water tank pics. Looks like that rectangular tank wasn't supposed to hold water unles it was supported. Oh well, at least it didn't collapse. And good thing there were a couple of extra tanks hanging around.

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9-15-2012 - Working on the water transfer.jpg
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Last edited by iammr.bill on Sep 16th, '12, 06:00, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sep 16th, '12, 05:55 
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While the water was being transferred, kept messing around with the rocket heater.

Oh, and found a rocket heater forum if anyone is interested.

http://donkey32.proboards.com/


Now for some pics. Rocket heater built on a gravel bed since it is dug down a bit from the grade of the ground. Built using some sand to assist with leveling. Hopefully it is enough to assist with drainage. Supposed to rain this weekend so it should be a good test.

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9-15-2012 - Laying a gravel and sand base.jpg
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9-15-2012 - Rocket Heater heat riser test fit.jpg
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9-15-2012 - Heat Riser.jpg
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PostPosted: Sep 16th, '12, 05:58 
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Ran out of energy for the day. Sleep is my reset button. Might do some more tomorrow.


Attachment:
9-15-2012 - Rocket Heater - Done for now.jpg
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Pic of my boy working on his own RMH. Teach em while they are young!!!


Attachment:
9-15-2012 -  Boy building his own RMH.jpg
9-15-2012 - Boy building his own RMH.jpg [ 60.83 KiB | Viewed 3842 times ]


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PostPosted: Sep 16th, '12, 08:18 
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That's great Mr Bill.

Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk 2


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PostPosted: Sep 27th, '12, 10:18 
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Worked on the heat riser pipe. No money, but I do have a bit of creativity now and then.

Attachment:
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9-24-2012 Cut out a section and screwed the pipe back together.jpg
9-24-2012 Cut out a section and screwed the pipe back together.jpg [ 44.43 KiB | Viewed 3645 times ]


Only get an hour or so to do anything after work, so that was enough for one day.


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PostPosted: Sep 27th, '12, 10:28 
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Attachment:
9-26-2012 Fabricating some stays.jpg
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9-26-2012 Looks a bit Frankenstein but it will work.jpg
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9-26-2012 Completed double stove pipe.jpg
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The idea is to stuff the space between the pipes with insulation to assist with the heat flow.

I have a piece of sufficiently thicker metal that I'll be cutting to make the back part of the Rocket Heater where the burn tunnel meets the heat riser (stove pipe). That is the place where there is alot of turbulence - where the square meets the round. Hopefully this idea will work the way its supposed to. I'll explain later after I get it cut and installed.

Also hope to start sifting clay and making morter soon. The base has held up very well even after a few rains and someone stepping on the base bricks. Good thing I packed it down.


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