Backyard Aquaponics
A place to discuss aquaponics

Yes everything will be 12 volt DC, except one pump that I already have will be a standby 110 volt A/C pump. It will be in the tank just waiting to be plugged in. I will run it now and then though.

I have one 12 volt pump running right now along with the 110 volt pump I started with, also have the battery for that pump (even though it is not what I want) I will be getting a better set of batteries.

Battery size is to be worked out when I see how these pumps to, and what they actually use. Just running off one not ideal battery right now.

The battery is actually going to be my back up. During the day (eventually) the system will run off solar, once the sun is down then the system will run off of a `110 volt A/C to 12 volt D/C converter/charger. If power fails than it just runs off the batteries.

Don't know what this means. To what level of drain are you working on C100 or C20..? ie 100hrs or 20hrs.. I am a newbie when it comes to batteries, but learning.

I don't want the batteries to be used at all except when there is no sun, and no grid power at the same time. Other than that I want it running off of the converter.

The liter per min is only 0.37cfm, but I have no idea what that looks like. That is the problem I have, it could be a lot, but I have no clue. I know what a CFM is, just don't know how that looks bubbling up from the bottom. This air pump is basically a back up, since I will be running 3 pumps 24/7 pumping the water to a fill and drain. That will supply most of the air (I think). But I want a air pump that is capable of keeping all my fish alive in the event I have to shut off all 3 water pumps.

I found some others, one pumps 1.3CFM, but uses twice the power. If I need more air, then that is fine I will get the bigger pump and make my batteries and solar bigger. Just don't have a clue if I need more pump or not.

If you use a standard medium pore airstone, I would suggest a minimum of 2.67cfm @ 5' water depth for 300# of fish.

Cool thanks, might need two 12 volt pumps to do that, but it is workable.

What type of batteries are you going to use?
What type of charge controller from solars?

Have not picked out everything yet, but this is what was recommended to my by a solar company. I am not going to use the charger listed, because I bought a charger/converter already. Will need 3 of each of these items. This list is for one pump only.

Don't know much about solar so any info is appreciated.

140 watt solar panel (12 volt) $189.99
12 volt deep cycle battery (Locally sourced)
Samlex 12V,15A 3STG AC BATTERY CHARGER $129.99
Morningstar Sunsaver SS-10L 10A, 12V Charge Controller $56.16
mounting system for solar panel ???? roof, pole and/or ground mount?

If you are going to use a 140 Watt solar panel, for sure use a charge controller that can handle 40 Amps.
I have done a lot of experiments with solar panels.
140 W / 12 Volts= 11.66 Amps
But there will be some spikes which will take the Apms way up there. So, please consider getting something with higher Amps.

Actually don't they put out over 13 volts? If so it would be even higher. Makes me wonder if I should do business with that company.

Thanks, will do. That is just what the solar company said would work for me. I think I also need more solar panel than that, but like I said I don't know much about this stuff yet.

If you are trying to save money by going that route, please do some cost analysis first and ask people who have done it for 10 years or more. But if you are thinking of survival matters, they that is different. I got back up system set up, it takes me 6 hours at max to put them in service, of course if we got sun shining!

I had 24 75 watt solar panels (BP brand, which suppose to be a good ones). So, got a little experience. I have also designed and built the converters and bridge rectifiers, and also designed and built DC generators for wind generation, about 28 years ago. Technology has advanced, but the basics are still the same.

The deep cycle solar battries are very expensive. And like everything in life, they have a service life, and it is matter of time, they get to the end.
Also, solar panels, at the optimum have 15 to 20 years of life, depending where you are located at and the intensity of the rays. And as they get aged, their power rating drops.
So, for a back up system, they are fine in case of survival. But in order to save $$$, on the long run, they do not pay off.

Hope this helps.

No not doing it to save money. I could save myself way over two thousand bucks going with 110 volt grid power. But our grid is VERY unreliable. We have been without power for over a week at a time on more than one occasion, and anytime the wind blows hard we loos power for at least a few hours. I don't want to loose all my fish because the power went out. I know everything has a life, but that is acceptable to me to have a reliable system that will not go down. Heck just my pumps are going to cost me 900 bucks, then the solar panels, batteries, charge controllers and so on. One or two 110 volt batteries would be much more economical.

You mjust be in the boonies like me. One time I lost power for 19 days due to snow storm we had. 49 pine trees were on the top of the power line coming into my property. I was on my own power and used a lot of Diesel fuel. I got a 25KW continous duty generator that run continously.
I assume you also have your own generator set considering all the power loses.
Have you looked at the 4-Stroke Gas Powered Portable Generators by Honda and Yamaha? They are so quiet and nice, also very reliable. I am thinking of getting one of them to power the whole Aquaponics in the case of power failures. The only thing I have to modify is the fuel tank, so I do not have to get there and refill that small tank every 6 hours.

I tried for a while to find one of those big lead acid lift truck batteries, but could not find one around my area. Maybe you be able to find one in your area. Many years ago, a friend used to charge one of them with 4 solar modules, and run everything during nights with it.

Yeah there are only 2 of us on this power line, so we are a very low priority. I do have my own generator, but want this to be able to run even if we are not here, or if we can't get gas. I just want it to be able to take care of itself power wise.

You know what you are doing.
When you are done, a picture would be nice.

What type of battery are you looking at?
Check this out

http://www.wholesalebatteriesdirect.com ... 58248.html

I am debating on this instead of Trojan. Trojans are so expensive.
Let me know if you found something better and cheaper please.

Thanks to be honest I have not really researched batteries yet. Got so much to do before I get to that point. Just using a 12 volt battery from tractor supply for now. But will keep you informed if I find something. I saved the link to your battery, thanks.

Any chance you can link the spec's on the Solar panels..

The Solar Panel should have a full rate voltage of about 16-17v
An amp of about 9-12A..

Juergen

Juergen,
I got the BP 75 watts, and here is the specs. I copied from a web site.

BP Solar-BP 375J, 75 watt 12 volt nominal solar panel

High-efficiency photovoltaic module using silicon nitride multicrystalline silicon cells.

Performance
Rated Power: 75 watts
Power Tolerance: ±5%
Nominal Voltage: 12 volts
Warranty: 25 years

Configuration
J BP 375J Clear Universal frame and standard J-Box
L BP 375L Unframed laminate version of BP 375S
S BP 375S Clear Universal frame with WireholdTM J-Box and and polarized Multicontact (MC) connectors

Electrical Characteristics:
Maximum Power (Pmax): 75 Watts
Voltage at Pmax (Vmp): 17.3 Volts
Current at Pmax (Imp): 4.3 Amps
Warranted minimum Pmax: 71.3 Watts
Short-circuit Current (Isc): 4.7 Amps
Open-circuit Voltage: 21.8 Volts
Temperature coefficient of Isc: (0.065±0.015)%/°K
Temperature coefficient of Voc: -(80±10)mV/°K
Temperature coefficient of Power: -(0.5±0.05)%/°K
NOCT (Air 20°C, Sun 0.8kW/m2, wind speed 1m/s: 47±2°C
Maximum series fuse rating: 15 amp (375S 375L) / 20 amps (BP 375J)
Maximum system voltage: 600 V (US NEC), 1000V (TUV Rheinland & IEC 61215)

Mechanical Characteristics

S,L,J Solar Cells : 36 cells (125 x 125 mm) in a 4 x 9 matrix connected in series
S,L Output cables : RHW AWG #12 (3.3 mm2) cable with polarized weatherproof DC rated Multicontact connectors; asymmetrical lengths -900mm (-) and 800mm (+)
J Junction box: J-Version junction box with 6 terminal connection block; IP 65, accepts PG 13.5, M20, 1/2" conduit, or cable fittings accepting 6 to 12 mm diameter cable. Terminals accept 8 to 14 AWG2 (2.5 to 10 mm) wire.
S,J,L Diodes IntegraBusTM technology includes Schottky by-pass diodes integrated into the printed circuit bus.
S,L,J Construction: Front: High transmission 1/8" (3 mm) tempered glass. Back: White back sheet; Encapsulated: EVA.
S,J Frame: Clear anodized aluminum alloy type 6063T6. Silver universal frame.

Quality and Safety
Manufactured in ISO 9001 certified factories; conforms to European Community Directive 89/33/EEC, 73/23/EEC, 93/68/EEC; certified to IEC 61215
Module power measurements calibrated to World Radiometric Reference through ESTI (European Solar Test Installation at Ispra, Italy)
Framed modules certified by TUV Rheinland as Safety Class II (IEC 60364) equipment for use in systems up to 1000 VDC
Framed modules listed by Underwriter Laboratories for electrical and fire safety (Class C fire rating)
Approved by Factory Mutual Research in NEC Class 1, Division 2, Groups C & D hazardous locations (J version only)
Qualifications Test Parameters
Temperature cycling range: 40°F to 185°F (-40°C to 85°C)
Humidity freeze, damp heat: 85% RH
Static load front and back (e.g. wind): 50 psf (2400 Pa)
Front loading (e.g. snow): 113 psf (5400 Pa)
Hailstone impact: 1" (25 mm) hail at 52 mph (23 m/s)

Made in USA

I got 8 of them brand new in the box for sale, in case anyone is interested close by my area.