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PostPosted: Jun 23rd, '11, 11:24 
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Does anyone make use of reflective sheeting to improve shady spots inside their GH? Is it worth getting high grade stuff, or am I just as good slapping up a coat of white paint?

Here's my situation: I've just finished building a sizeable --by British standards-- greenhouse in the back garden and am a bit concerned by the light levels I've ended up with. I opted to build out of 25mm polycarbonate (we'd planned and priced for 16mm polycarb, but the salesman offered 25mm for the same price, so it goes).

The ridiculous U-value of 1.4 will no doubt come in handy during the long winter months, but the trade-off for such thick sheets is that I'm stuck with 75% light transmission, and so the interior of my excellently-situated aquaponic palace has ended up looking worryingly dull. Well maybe not dull, but it isn't exactly bright either, so I'm looking for any ways to improve it.

Since one end of the GH abuts a fence, it's just wood boards. If I clad this in reflective sheeting of some sort, and do the same with other non-polycarb areas (it's a lean-to structure extending across two levels of concrete & paving) might that improve the lighting somewhat?

So any input on reflectives would be appreciated. I'm not expecting to radically boost my light levels, but I'm willing to install anything that helps. I've already ordered a lux meter to feed my paranoia.


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PostPosted: Jun 23rd, '11, 13:14 
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I don't know about greenhouses and AP, but I know for indoor hydroponic grows they use reflective mylar sheeting. Hope that helps.


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PostPosted: Jun 23rd, '11, 13:36 
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If you're trying to aim light into specific places, than reflective services are great. But in general, a flat white is the most beneficial surface.

Info from The Northlands Winter Greenhouse Manual.


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PostPosted: Jun 24th, '11, 07:39 
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Hm, I have three choices it seems: simple white paint, a reflective mylar sheet (which is fairly cheap) or what may be the more-money-than-sense option, this stuff...




I think I can resist my perfectionist compulsions and save the £80. I'll slap up some white paint and check everywhere with the light meter - no sense in splurging that kind of cash to satisfy a vague worry.


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PostPosted: Jun 24th, '11, 17:11 
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Why not use some of those space blankets they give to runners after the marathon.

You must have a poundland in Liverpool

http://www.poundland.co.uk/product-rang ... -blankets/

aman


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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '11, 03:17 
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White paint, plastic, etc. difuse light, meaning it spreads the light out in a wide band; it makes it brighter but the light concentration weaker. The metal reflective, mylar, even tin foil, reflects the light rays at almost full strength, more like a mirror which can intensify the light, if you bouce it at mutiple angles. Even though the video presented showed the mylar as being lower in light intensity, look at the shadowing at the bottom of the cubicle. Now look at the light being reflected multiple times at the top of this same cubicle. If the reading would have been taken at the top of the cubicle, I bet you that the reading would have surpassed the white cubicle.
Now that you know the difference, you can compare what you want it for. If you want it generally brighter all around and no concerns about burning (hot spots), use the white paint. If you want to concentrate sunlight say to lower tiers of plants, use angled mylar but treat it as you would direct sunlight.


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PostPosted: Jan 15th, '12, 20:54 
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Angie wrote:
White paint, plastic, etc. difuse light, meaning it spreads the light out in a wide band; it makes it brighter but the light concentration weaker. The metal reflective, mylar, even tin foil, reflects the light rays at almost full strength, more like a mirror which can intensify the light, if you bouce it at mutiple angles. Even though the video presented showed the mylar as being lower in light intensity, look at the shadowing at the bottom of the cubicle. Now look at the light being reflected multiple times at the top of this same cubicle. If the reading would have been taken at the top of the cubicle, I bet you that the reading would have surpassed the white cubicle.
Now that you know the difference, you can compare what you want it for. If you want it generally brighter all around and no concerns about burning (hot spots), use the white paint. If you want to concentrate sunlight say to lower tiers of plants, use angled mylar but treat it as you would direct sunlight.


I think u are mistaken here, FLAT white paint is amost 30% more reflective than mirrors and tin foil, and i have never seen FLAT white painted surfaces burn anything


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