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PostPosted: Dec 9th, '11, 18:40 
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Ah! Chopped banana tree float in the tank, Thai formula.

How about test result in ammonia, nitri.
May be you need this.
http://seasunaquarium.com/home/index.ph ... t&Itemid=6


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PostPosted: Dec 9th, '11, 18:47 
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Ao+ wrote:
Ah! Chopped banana tree float in the tank, Thai formula.

How about test result in ammonia, nitri.
May be you need this.
http://seasunaquarium.com/home/index.ph ... t&Itemid=6


Thanks Ao, I forgot to put that link up.


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PostPosted: Dec 9th, '11, 19:29 
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AO, Duinui,

I installed the filter and the air compressor today. In the process I may have caused a few deaths. The bubble stone churned up the bottom of the pond bad and all of that banana stuff my MIL put in turned the water into a mess at first. My wife used the net and removed a lot of it plus the filter running now should get a lot tonight. I only had two dead this morning but the total for today is seven. You guy's are correct - I need a test kit, a good one, yesterday. I don't like guessing.

On the up side the tomato seeds I planted on 12-4 are coming up beautifully.

Thanks for the link.

Questions on planting in gravel:

How deep is the gravel bed? Can you use the construction grade gray gravel, rinse it and fill your beds? If you use gravel larger than pea gravel 3/8ths inch - how large can you use and still get decent results?

How deep do you run the water in a CF system? Do you run the water less than the depth of the gravel?--how far less? I assume that veggies would die if I ran the system like I do my bog gardens - the water there rises about 1 to 2 inches above the gravel bed and stays that way. The water overflows the sides of the bog garden back into the pond. How high would I have to raise the gravel in one of those beds to plant veggies.

I read all of the Trials by EB, all 35 pages. I still have my money on F&D but my interest has been stirred up about CF. I love it in my bog gardens.


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PostPosted: Dec 9th, '11, 19:49 
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GB Depth - Generally 30cm+.
Gray Gravel seems fine, in fact I read it is high in good minerals, so is a good choice.
I put the larger stones in the bottom of the GB and either top off with river bed stuff, it's mostly only the top few inches that you work with and it's much kinder to the hands.
Having said that, my Surin system was all gray gravel, just topped off with the smaller stones.

CF should flood to about 1 inch _below_ the gravel surface, this also prevents algae build up.
In a new GB perhaps make it more than 1 inch below as the gravel will settle.

All that rotting stuff in the bottom of your tank may have caused some problems, stirring it up may make things worse, initially, but it is necessary to remove it imo.


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PostPosted: Dec 9th, '11, 21:05 
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My first system use 3/4 inch(20mm) gravel, NOT sorted.
My first system use shallow GB so now i have clog up problem, water over flow from the GB sometime.
Water clear.

My second system, I use 3/4 sorted gravel, remove small gravel out.
No clog up at all but water not clear.

I think if you use 30 cm depth. You do not need to sort the gravel, let them clog, this will help to remove solid out and make water clear(I don't know why I like clear water, clouded water make me not feel good when watch my system.)

On the aeration I use this.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9340&start=60
Air pump is only for back up to me after I use u-tube. This can save electricity and very efficient aeration. But difficult to set up, you need to find a suitable pipe size for your pump.
This u-tube(In this case actually L) can pump air to the bottom of the tank. Then you can use air lifted water to blow bio filter, cut the big pipe fill with media then place the pipe a little bit above L pipe end.


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File comment: u-tube aeration if you use fish tank lower than GB.
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File comment: Air lift with filter.
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PostPosted: Dec 9th, '11, 21:10 
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Image

One pump running
Image

Starting
Image

Two pump running.
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PostPosted: Dec 9th, '11, 22:33 
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AO

How did you waterproof the round tank? Rendering? Paint? Sealer of some type?

Is there an iron rod between each layer of block or any other iron used in the construction of the tank?


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PostPosted: Dec 9th, '11, 22:54 
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John,
In Surin to line the GB's, I used a sealer called Crocodile Flex suitable for potable water, cement based, wasn't too expensive IIRC.
Took me a long time to find it.
You have to be careful here (as I'm sure you know) - You ask the store owner if it's suitable for aquarium use etc. etc. - They of course say yes 'cos they want to sell it to you, then you read the small print (hopefully it's in English) and it says something like "Extremely toxic to aquatic life"
Been there, done that !

I believe Ao+ said somewhere that the above ground bits of the tank were reinforced with iron.


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PostPosted: Dec 9th, '11, 22:55 
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DuiNui wrote:
Crocodile Flex suitable for potable water, cement based, wasn't too expensive IIRC.


Was in Home Pro I think, they only had 1 tub left and I had to order more.


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PostPosted: Dec 10th, '11, 13:34 
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Maybe, just maybe all is ok - I only had one dead fish this a.m.


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PostPosted: Dec 10th, '11, 14:29 
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johnra wrote:
AO

How did you waterproof the round tank? Rendering? Paint? Sealer of some type?

Is there an iron rod between each layer of block or any other iron used in the construction of the tank?

Waterproof cement brush like painting. I use lanko 222 , but now there are some others brand cheaper available on the market.
Crocodile should be cheaper. But outdoor system should not use flexible, more expensive and poorer UV proof.

My tank has 8 layer of brick. I use iron reinforcement at layer 5-6, only 1 ring.
But no iron for wall should be okay for round tank.
In rectangle tank, wall has poorer force distribution. So you need to have column and beam iron reinforcement cement.


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PostPosted: Dec 10th, '11, 20:55 
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Only 1 dead this morning turned into 8 by the end of the day. So far I have stocked a total of 400 fingerlings and lost 40, 10 percent.

AO I forgot to ask you - what is the diameter and depth of your round tank? Is part of it in the ground?


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PostPosted: Dec 10th, '11, 22:39 
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Yes half of the fish tank is in the ground
Tank dia 2m. dept(water surface) 1.6m
http://cid-c9e886c36a6a2547.photos.live ... .aspx/AQP2

Iron rod reinforcement tank floor.

How about temp in korat?
I think 10% loss is okay for newbie. I louse more than half.


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PostPosted: Dec 11th, '11, 15:23 
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Temp in Korat - Don't know. I never know because I don't pay attention to it unless it gets really, really cold like about three years ago. Today is sunny with blue skies. Some breeze. It is chilly in the shade but nice in the sun. I still don't wear shoes, just shorts and a tee shirt. Last night We had to put a blanket on the bed but most of the time we just use a light cover. Now that I am raising fish I guess I need to start paying a little attention the temp. I keep one meter of water plus in the pond and that one meter is all in the ground so the temp should not change much. How far is it from Korat to your home? Are you near the beaches? Here I am in the middle of casava fields. Total country - I am about 20 kilometer from town.


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PostPosted: Dec 11th, '11, 19:46 
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Tillapia is tropical fish, it's need warm water, Thai fish farmer usually have problem in winter. (Hey you said Thailand has only 2 season. :D )

Korat not far from Chonburi but you have to cross the mountain (Kao Yai).
My home is 10km from the sea.


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