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PostPosted: Jul 19th, '11, 10:39 
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Hi there all...
Just thought I would post a couple of clips from our first small system...


Tried to do it for as few $$ as possible but had to bite the bullet when it came to the clay balls...
The idea behind this system is that it will be up & cycling when the IBC system goes in at the end of Winter... One of the beds will be used to "jump start" the 2 IBC beds with some home grown bacteria to help get it cycling... Well, that the theory anyway...
Have done 2 tests so far & todays was the same as yesterdays...


Have been lurking here & there on the forum gleaning as I go so THANKS one & all... :cheers:


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PostPosted: Jul 19th, '11, 11:44 
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Good to see things up and running Rob... :thumbright:


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PostPosted: Jul 19th, '11, 11:47 
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Nice and neat system you have built. How does the emergency water inlet work? I think that is what you called it in the video.

As for the fish. How long between putting the water in and putting the fish in? If not long enough then the deaths could be down to chlorine/chloramine poisoning.


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PostPosted: Jul 19th, '11, 12:03 
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Thanks Earthbound...

Hi Rob...
"How does the emergency water inlet work? I think that is what you called it in the video."
It's the "emergency" overflow just in case something blocks the syphon or return pipes.. don't want any more losses if I can help it :(
It is just a screened fitting on 19mm pipe running via gravity back into the tank... Hope it never needs to be used...
"How long between putting the water in and putting the fish in?"
The water had been in the system for over 48 hours before the fish were added but only running to the beds & being aerated for the last 24... Was told by people "in the know" that that would be long enough... Might leave it longer next time just in case your right... Thanks...


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PostPosted: Jul 19th, '11, 12:17 
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Hi Rob,

24 hours of aeration is normally fine for removing Chlorine from tap water, but as suggested on a previous thread about this topic, Chloramines may require up to a week of aeration and sunlight. UV/sunlight breaks down Chloramines better than anything else (other than de-chlor).

Cheers.


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PostPosted: Jul 19th, '11, 12:23 
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Mr Damage wrote:
24 hours of aeration is normally fine for removing Chlorine from tap water, but as suggested on a previous thread about this topic, Chloramines may require up to a week of aeration and sunlight. UV/sunlight breaks down Chloramines better than anything else (other than de-chlor).


Thought I had it all sussed but it appears not... I had read about Chloramines but didn't pay to much attention & though it was the same period as Chlorine...
Thanks Mr Damage...


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PostPosted: Jul 21st, '11, 15:05 
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Are having a few pH issues...
It has risen from 7 (think I took a dodgy test) to 8 on Tuesday & Wednesday after trying the High range solution... Today (Thursday) it has risen to 8.5... Will be looking at adding some lemon juice if it is still high in the morning...
Out of interest I tested the tap water & it came in with a pH of 8 so it hasn't jumped to high but not to happy with it rising...

Ammonia steady at .50ppm & Nitrate steady at 0 - 5ppm...

Fish look happy & have welcomed the survivor from the first batch...

**wanders off to find Lemon juice rates for tank**


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PostPosted: Jul 21st, '11, 15:56 
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Why lemon juice?... why not hydrochloric acid (pool acid)?

You need much larger quantities of lemon juice than you do HCl to get the same response, and with lemon juice your pH will be right back up to the same tomorrow. Supposedly the lemon juice also ends up stinking up your water. Plus, as somebody pointed out on the forum a few weeks back, citric acid has anti-bacterial properties.

Pool acid will cost you $10-$12 for 5 litres, and if you treat your top-up water, ie: reduce the pH to about 7.0, with the pool acid a few hours prior to adding it to your system each time, it will neutralise the carbonates, therefore gradually reducing the carbonates in your main system with each top-up, this will then gradually reduce the pH in your system.

Once your system has "cycled"... the pH in most systems starts to trend downwards, when this happens, stop treating your top-up water with HCl, because you'll want the carbonates at that point, to help buffer the pH up.

Cheers,


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PostPosted: Jul 21st, '11, 15:59 
Be wary of "pool acid".... many of them aren't Hydrochloric Acid....


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PostPosted: Jul 21st, '11, 16:01 
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Really?... good to know!... what else do they sell as pool acid?


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PostPosted: Jul 21st, '11, 16:41 
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Mr Damage wrote:
Why lemon juice?... why not hydrochloric acid (pool acid)?

I had read/heard that was suitable for small amounts of water like our barrel system & we have heaps on the tree & stored...
Will look into getting some Hydrochloric Acid tomorrow...
RupertofOZ wrote:
Be wary of "pool acid".... many of them aren't Hydrochloric Acid....

Tar... Will make sure its the good stuff....


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PostPosted: Jul 21st, '11, 17:25 
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Hardware shops should have small bottles of hydrochloric acid. A small bottle will go a long way


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PostPosted: Jul 21st, '11, 21:32 
Bunnings sell various sized "black" bottles... ask for "Diggers Hydrochloric Acid"....

It's often locked in the same cages as the spray paint cans and stuff....

Cheap as chips... and as said... goes a long way...


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PostPosted: Jul 22nd, '11, 02:14 
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Thanks Mantis & Rupert...
: )»


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PostPosted: Jul 26th, '11, 14:40 
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Still no movement on the levels so it's a case of no news is good news I take it...
Did put some extra fish & some yabbies in on the weekend & still no movement...



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