Backyard Aquaponics
A place to discuss aquaponics

So after looking through a few forums and countless hours of reading, ive settled on here for my current home ! Looking at some of the setups and knowledge in the posts i feel and can gain the rest of my knowledge from this forum for the moment. Backround on me is mostly a contractor, some previous hydroponics, so anything that has to be built plumbed wired or grown, i can put it together. I also understand aeration and Co2 if they come into play. I am just not exactly sure what it is that i need to be building lol.

I ordered 25 Blue tilapia fingerlings from tilapiasource.com and they will shop up in about 14-18 days. I have a full basement thats around 70-73 degrees at all time for starters. Easy access to water and power. 1000sqft garage outside to expand to if all goes well this winter. Once i see that this works for me (which it should) i will be moving to level up and expand locally into a warehouse a friend of mine has, but i under stand that is another thread.

Main questions, disregard costs and space requirements for the fish as i am flexible with all that.

Do i start with a 25-30 gal tank, so i can move them to a 50 or 100 gal grow out tank and put the fry back in the 25 gal ?
Or just start with a 40-50 gal tank with the fingerlings ?
When are these fish, if 1" or so now, going to start breeding, im reading like 2-4 months somewhere ?
I just want to be prepared so i dont buy a tank thats going to be useless in a few months. Ideal space i will work in for the winter is about 10x10 with more room for plants if i need.

I want to work on a raft system since i intend to go commercial and want to get familiair with the system. I read that they use polystyrene boards, found them at a usaplastics link (thanks), but what thickness would i need ? Multiple sizes ranging heavy in cost to almost nothing, also is anything else better for raft tanks ?

Im guessing im going to end up with a 30 gal tank with 25 fingerlings, and maybe a 30 gal rubbermaid above it with hydroton if i cant figure out what i am asking here. I just want an effective working model ideally with knowledge i can use moving forward. I have well water so im guessing i dont need to dechlorinate ?

After initial tank purchase i have no complaints building something, and i have easy access to 330gal IBC tanks for about $40-50 a piece here, with the cage. I looked at a few of these setups and they were neat, but i thought i wanted more surface area for the fish rather then depth ? Or is that only in large scale commercial stuff with high stocking density ?

Also i am currently working under the current assumptions based on my readings here that i want about 80 degree water, and my grow bed or raft system can have 1 sqft growing area for 25 gallons of fish ? (grow sqft = gallons of fish / 25) deciphered from the statement of 1000gal is good for 40ftsq of lettuce or 20ftsq of "fruits"

I have looked a tons of threads and i appreciate that i can look at threads and pics before my registration was effective, thanks.

Basically when these fish show up what do i do with them so i dont miss any steps ? Thats my main concern. I just dont want to get them here, throw together something in a day or two and have it be useless a month later. How long till these things size up and move on ? I will build a new tank for when they are bigger, but assume for now i have to keep everything in 10x10 or 10x15 corner of basement. Seems most things are based on UVI methods and i am not opposed to going there in march if i feel i need more knowledge, id rather teach myself with your help and save the couple grand for the trip lol Even if it is to the beach.

Put it this way, fish show up, put in 30 gal tank with 30 gal media bed, this is current plan. Plants above the fish with a bell siphon i guess. Id Rather know what im looking at and get the proper size tank and set up a DWC raft system, largest size the better to make believers out of people. Will just be growing romaine lettuce for now, seeds planted last week in peat pellets and sprouted about 3 days ago.

I know that's a lot but since im planning on spending some time and money on this going forward i wanted to get it all out there in the first post, so we can get right to the meat. Each question on here is important to me and ive used the search function as well as looking around here changing all of your liter measurements to gallons so i know wth is going on lol.

Basically i would like to run a perpetual DWC system in my basement that i can leave there and grow the lettuce for an example, then be able to take fry when they are ready and start them outside in a few months where i have a 25x30 garage and can setup whatever i want out there once im comfortable with this. Just want to start with best all around tank size, or a tank i would be using for fry/fingerlings when i get more, or they breed. Or may jump right to large scale indoor after i see it workiing in basement. Thanks for any help guys, and ladies.

-Upstate

for 25 tilapia to grow out to a pound, you'll want at least 100 gallon ft and thats really pushing it, i'm not as familiar with dwc systems, but you'll need some kind of solids filtration - like growbeds - a good start there would be 100 gallons of growbed, (1:1 with the fishtank) better would be 200 gallons
good luck!

Welcome UH!

You should not be adding fish until you have a cycled biofilter. Do a search on here about cycling. This can take about a month. You can do fishless cycling with pure ammonia or pee, without the hassle of trying to keep the fish from dying before the biofilter is established. Maybe ask the tilapia people if they can delay shipping because you are not cycled yet?

My advice is to get a few Rubbermaid containers of various sizes and put the credit card away for awhile until you're sure about the system you want to build and the cheapest way to get there. There are expensive ways to build an AP system and cheap ways that will give you much more volume per $.

Also, Sketchup is fun to use and useful to layout possibilities before spending money on the real hardware. You can change you mind and approach many times before settling on a layout that will work well for your basement.

Also, tilapia start breeding as soon as they can, which can be just a couple months after you get them, if the water is 86 degrees.

FWIW I had tilapia in my basement and they grew without any plants in the system at all for about 9 months. Tilapia are really tough fish. This will help as you get established.

Thanks guys. Sorry i know thats reading overload by suprise, but i just wanted to get it all on one page. I'll do a search on cycling, i have a couple 18 gal bings that are plastic that i could use. I think im going to get a 30gal tabletop tank tomorrow and work on getting it running so i dont waste anymore time.

Anyone else with any of that other info would be appreciated as well, thanks

Hey there, UH! Welcome aboard. Where upstate? I have relatives nr Rochester and did some time in Ithaca. Nice area.

I find the UVI information, that it takes about 50 grams of fish food per day to support a square meter of raft plants, useful. You can have lightly stocked water or heavily stocked, but the amt of food determines the amt of waste and that is what feeds the plants.

If you know anyone with an aquarium full of fish and a sponge filter, ask them to squeeze the goop out of the filter for you, then run home and get it into the tank and you have a big headstart on cycling. On the downside, you also have whatever infections your friend has in his tank.

To deal with shipping stress, ich, nitrites, and other troubles, salt to at least 3ppt (easy for folks who measure in liters, but not for us). All tilapia I've seen can easily handle 6ppt and the sudden change helps kill evil microorganisms.

Moisture is a real problem in enclosed spaces if the water is relatively warm. You will get mold etc unless you take steps. Logically, trout would be nice: the cool water would condense the moisture put out by the plant leaves rather than adding to it.

Big tank for tilapia as they are darned aggressive. I must agree that 100 gal is probably good, but a ten-gal aquarium is cheap and easy to start with and will be great for fry.

Good luck!

Im actaully downstate really, orange county. From Jersey so this is upstate for everyone else lol.

I started with a 20 gal aquarium i bought at petsmart. Filled with about 15 -18 gal water, added some beneficial bacteria in a can, and now have to finish a mini setup by the weekend ideally. Tilapia will arrive next week, was going to just put a mini koi or goldfish in the tank so i can see it doesnt die. I have to setup the grow bed above it somewhere for this run.

Im thinking put bed about 6" higher then the tank, and off to the right. Flood from tank from far right side of grow bed, water flows back with gravity and out a 1/2" uniseal w/pvc and screen on bottom of lower side thats suspended over fish tank. Sound like that should work if they have to be next to each other ? I know it works in theory and have no issues believing it, id just almost rather work with waste line sized pvc so i have something solid, dont like doing this halfway. Once i get them setup in there i will work on making a real setup and getting the next sized tank (55 gal ?), then after that a 100-150 gal depending what im planning.

Moisture is ok, boiler is across the basement so stays around 45-50% winter and 50-60% summer, gotta love ny for that at least. Usually have good humidity down there for veggies. Going to cut an 18 gal plastic container in half height wise so its not so deep, and use that. Just want to see this work on small scale so i can plan the larger one i right about above.

Thanks guys

Make sure to test the water anyway since the bacteria you purchased may not have been alive.


6" from bottom of gb to top of water in tank is plenty of drop for an autosiphon or any other drainage system.
1/2" is fine for a gallon or two per minute, but you might prefer to use a larger (3/4"? 1"?) pipe and reduce it below the uniseal as needed. It is always easier to restrict than to enlarge the plumbing.
Why and how are you using a screen?


???

No screen sorry about that.

Ive done some work downstairs and now this is where i am at and the issues i have,

20 gal tank setup with 2 koi
30 gal bin filled about 7" with hydroton (need to get more)
GB is to the left and raised about 2"

Ran 1/2" pvc through uniseal into lower sidewall of GB
Pvc steps up to 3/4 inside GB and holes are drilled five around and maybe every 1.5 inches on the pvc
4" drain pipe with many holes drilled in it, slid over the pvc, runs end to end, protecting pvc from hydroton
Made 1/2" pvc loop siphon type thing to make some progress, buying correct hosing later today, looks kind of like _/^l lol keyboards but something like that when comng out of gb and releasing over the FT.

Concerns/issues:
Am i supposed to run this continually or cycle it ?
With this siphon it leaves about 1" of water in the GB, is this normal, or ok ?
- not worried about roots, just standing water concerns i guess, seen some people only use half the 4" pipe as a cover/shield
With a small tank im starting to see the fish crap, will the 100gph pump suck this up or am i in for issues ?
If not then What do i do about the crap when i have 25 fingerlings next week and dont want to put in a clarifier/sump bucket ?


Thanks

You mention that the GB is raised about 2". Does this mean the bottom is 2" higher than the FT or the top is. I assume the bottom, but want to be sure I am understanding correctly.

In my, very limited, experience so far with fish tanks and setting up AP systems the small pumps which based on the ratios of GPH flow needed ect for the size tank just do not cut it. Most of the small pumps I have seen/used do not operate well with any amount of head over 6" or so. Looking at the curve of flow vs head height they should, but when you are talking such small amounts of flow they seem to lack the force to really circulate the water and draw in the solids. Best I can say from my experience is to make sure the flow into the tank is opposite of the outflow so you push the solids towards the pump. Even then you can have problems as a lot of fish tanks are long but narrow. I found going bigger on the pump helps. I use stand pipes and get a lot of overflow, but that just helps circulate the water.

Correct, the bottom of GB is about 1" higher then FT. If i just let it shoot out without a siphon it leaves a couple inches of water in the GB. I think i will put in a stand pipe and run this on a timer, so it can fill up and move around the water, that sounds like a good idea.

The solids i guess i'll figure out, i dont need them for anything, just the thinner water for the plants correct ?

I have some decent hydroponic expereince and have a few different size pumps i can play with. Used to DWC or NFT now i have to learn ebb and flow lol. Seems like easiest way to get it moving and thats how it started. Gonna get this to work then try some NFT with hydroton, and up to rafts in the spring if i can figure this out.

Main thing is will it do any negative with a couple inches of water in my gb, is mold good in this case ? Or it wont mold since it will be moved every hour ?

either is fine. I go with constant.


Just fine. You'll probably have more remaining when root interfere with flow: I'm up to about 50% drainage on my indoor system.


I think the pump will suck it up when a fish or incoming water moves it over toward the puimp. If you put the pump on a timer so it turns off once a day it will dislodge any solids that are building up as a barrier and then take another shot at sucking them up.