Backyard Aquaponics
A place to discuss aquaponics

Cheers Rupe, Cheers TC, I read it as using a retic as an alternative to turning the pump on/off to trigger the sequence, not as an alternative to a sequencing valve.



And note: Not the retic feeding the sequencer either, but diverting FROM it to provide the trigger. They're not all that expensive. I got a 1-inch one so that I can try it and report back!


And actually you should be able to add one more growbed line (in addition to the number of ports on the sequencer). How is this magic accomplished? Let's walk the sequence:
(Pump stays on continuously, this is better for some pumps/situations/religious preferences)
(Also assume a 4-port Armadillo valve)
Pump -> past closed retic valve -> sequencer -> Port 1 -> GB1 with standpipe always draining
*timer comes on for a minute* *Sends voltage to retic opening it*
(for 1 minute) Pump -> thru open retic valve -> GB5 which has a bell siphon
(during this minute, the seq valve sees reduced pressure and steps forward)
*timer off, back to normal*
Pump -> past closed retic -> sequencer -> Port 2 -> GB2 with standpipe
*timer on for a minute*
Pump -> thru open retic valve -> GB5 which fills up a bit more
(seq valve sees reduced pressure and steps forward)
*timer off, back to normal*
Pump -> past closed retic -> sequencer -> Port 2 -> GB3
*timer on for a minute*
Pump -> thru open retic valve -> GB5 which fills up a bit more
*timer off, back to normal*
Pump -> past closed retic -> sequencer -> Port 2 -> GB4
*timer on for a minute*
Pump -> thru open retic valve -> GB5 which at some point has filled, siphoned out and started again

4 ports plus one diversion valve = 5 growbed feeds.

I manage a retic shop and we retail solenoid valve 's for 30 bucks, as for water quality I am also a technician we run these with some of the filthiest bore water you have ever seen worse than any aquaponics set up the purpose of the valve is to get the sequence valve to change ports instead of the pump turning on and off all the time, the cost of the extra power consumption over the year or more and the 50 bucks it would probably cost. I am running a 3300lph pump that is dirty water . 44w pump sol. valves we are running at 1800lph on a standard retic system. I am talking 25mm valves, you can even get smaller ones that can go inline on 19mm poly pipe. they use them on evaporative airconditioners, probably even cheaper still, and less pressure. I may be new to aquaponics but I have 20 yrs of irrigation exp. up my sleeve.

Don't doubt your experience... just relaying information that has been posted over time by those that have tried using solenoids... or at least "inline" solenoids with AP water flowing through them... and uneaten pellets, and bio-film have proven to be a problem...

Others have used electric solenoids to trigger valves/flaps successfully...

Can you post some pics of your system and the "retic" gear pjenkyn...

me personly believe that the old bell siphon is the most reliable when you get em right, Highly recommend murry hallams dvd aquaponics secrets, Keeping your systems simple is the best way, I was suggesting that would be a solution should u choose to go that way with the sequence valves. That is why I have chosen a bell siphon coz of the experience i have with pumps is they are best to be kept running, Last year the water corp trialed a complete winter ban on watering, come spring when every one turned it back on again, bore pumps were dying and most people could claim it on fusion through thier insurance companies, that then caused the butterfly effect for them to look at stats so they had a chat to the water corp to allow bore owners to run their pumps at least once a week to prevent fusion. I know we are talking different things but most pumps that we use AP are continuous flow rated meaning that is what they are designed for, It's just food for thought! It's what made me choose against using timers. but it is whatever floats your boat!

Personally having some experience with AP, I believe there is merit in stopping the pump every now and then. Even if you run continuously I would say, stop it at least once a day. Why??

If some crap gets stuck at the strainer of a continously running pump, it will reduce flow and as you continously run your pump, more and more crap will get stuck and flow will be even more reduced. In stopping the pump, the backwash effect will blow the crap/debris away and effectively restore flow capabilities.

Hence I would tend to say that stopping and starting the pump has better solid removal process than a continuously running one.

Important thing to note is that in most AP systems (apart from those with separate solids removal) we are not just irrigating the growbeds, but also moving solids to the growbeds so that they can be broken down by the worms...

Certainly more than one way to skin a cat...

What you say about stopping the pump once a day makes sense but that depends on the pump, AP systems should all be using Dirty water pumps and not the cheaper fountain pumps as I'm sure most are using, a dirty water pump has a large particle screen around it which if particles are bigger than 8mm they will rest on it until they break down to 8mm, plus the screen is designed large enough to not effect flow, I haven't yet seen how dirty FT water can get yet in AP and what sized solids we are talking about, but I'm sure if they are getting that big, there is something not right. I have been using these pumps for years to suck the dirty water out of ponds and into filter systems. The other problem with pumps turning on and off is the amount of current draw used to start the pump, If you turned it off for a period once a day to rest the system, you wouldn't notice the difference, but if you did what most people do and have it on and off every hour you will notice a - about 20% increase in your power bill, the price of power these days, that's alot to think about

BTW my system I have just set up is ridiculously tiny, I am selling my house at the moment, but I am in the process of designing a kick ass system for my new house I am building as soon as I sell this one, I will post details as I get them. Like I say I am young to AP but my ext. knowledge in areas of the hort. industry may be of assistant to help this industry grow, I hope I can contribute.

I haven't put a gauge on one but the fountain pumps are magnetic driven. I don't think they would have the startup requirments of other pumps.

This is the reason why Murray Hallam uses Bell siphons, His reason against the flood and drain timer systems, Also the slow drain doesn't give the rush of oxygen to the roots like the bell siphon does, being magnetic or not , just coz they don't have a cap start, I'm sure they would still draw a fair bit at start up. the magnet is the impeller, the motor is an electro magnet but it would use more power to get going then it would once it has momentum. I have not seen any tests , just going on what manufacturers tell me, If some one has the equipment to test this and post the results I would be very interested, obviously on a variety of pumps, I have the rep from a supplier that sells the very expensive german made oase pumps tell me they are more economical to run than the cheaper chinese made aquapro and pondmax pumps, I also get different specs on the bigger range as I'm a dealer for Davie and Grundfos as well.

Changing the polarity and the inpeller catches up is a lot different than powering up to start the impeller at full speed. Either way I think its better to stop the pumps regularly to allow them to clean. I run 2 5000lph pumps, one on 24/7 and the other stoping and starting with the valve. Only difference is I have to clean one. I was going to use an expanding valve(chamber) to slow the flow to sequence the valve but it seemed easier to just stop the pump.

My sequencing valve is one of the things that has really worked on my system.

If I were to build it from scratch I think it would be about $70 for top quality parts (read reliable). THat is not a lot cheaper than Rup's valve and it only has two positions (GB1 and GB2) but it can handle flows from 100mm DWV. This means that it has better applications for larger systems.

My pump still need to be turned off regularly though. Laguna recommends that weekly and monthly maintenance be done on their pumps to ensure that they run for years trouble free. Mostly this is just cleaning the cage on a weekly basis. The monthly service is a bit more involved but still pretty simple.