Backyard Aquaponics
A place to discuss aquaponics

I have not worked with the AVR's so I can't compare, but I have enjoyed working with the pic's. I work in complied basic and run a simulator so I have ended up doing the software and testing it while I half watch TV

Ok, I am going to try to post some pics of the repeat cycle timer that Jazzyplayermark helped me with.
It is based on a 555 timer and so the times are a bit variable due to the use of large capacitors and resistors but it seems to be working ok for the time being. (still interested in your kit though Novaris.)

Anyway here are some pictures.




Sorry that it is hard to see the diagram. I've not really tried to do electronic diagrams on the computer yet and have been busy lately.
Anyway, it is basically a 555 timer circuit who's output controls a DPDT relay.
it's output also feeds to some logic chips and a transistor that then control the length of the pulse that is actually fed to another relay which controls the first relay's path to ground and thereby controlling the length of time the motor is actually energized.

Mark said it was ok if I shared this circuit since it isn't anything that hasn't been done before. Having a diagram is helpful to those of us with less electronics experience.

I perhaps could have used the same power supply for both the circuit as well as to power the actuator but it just seemed too hard to sort out the timing since things fluctuated so much trying it that way. So I have a 9 volt DC power supply powering the timer circuit and a separate 12 volt power supply to drive the actuator being controlled by the relays.

I have this circuit and actuator operating a valve that I worked out. I'll perhaps start a new thread for pictures of that valve.

This is what I was trying to overcome with my design... I just have to prototype it so ppl might actually believe it works I need more time... Wish this baby could stay in DW just a couple of months longer.

Cool to see I'm not the only one with the idea to make a cycle timer!

I made a timer / controller, and used a Freeduino (Arduino clone, with a Atmega168 chip), a big SSR (solid state relay) and some wires. Total cost for me was around 30 euros. You can program it from the computer via USB, and although I'm a noob at programming I managed to get it to work pretty quickly!

So far I've only tested it with a 40W lightbulb on 230V, but since the SSR I used is rated at 240V 10A I guess my 220W pump won't be a problem. I may have to add a small heatsink, but I don't think it'll be neccesary.

It's a big improvement on the mechanical timer I had (which works with 15 minute increments); you can program this thing to the millisecond!

The cool thing with the Arduino is that you can also hook up a bunch of sensors, buttons, a small LCD screen, etc. The little board has 14 digital output pins and 6 analog input pins! I'm still busy with it, but eventually I hope to program it to have a pump cycle dependant on the water temperature, air temperature, light level, or a combination of those. Maybe even hook up an automatic feeder; the amount of feed per day also dependant on these sensor inputs. I'm new to electronics and programming, but the Arduino / Freeduino is an easy and cool thingy to learn with!

Here is a link to my thread where I put pictures of the valve I'm controlling with the circuit I posted about.
http://backyardaquaponics.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=206407#p206407
I'm actually pretty proud of it and it is working well. Other than the rubberband which I need to improve on.

My timer wish may need a different thread, but here goes.
A timer that switches duty between two pumps, like 1 hour power on pump A, 1 hour pump B, A, B, for the purpose of redundancy...
Is that just a variation of any of these cycle timer designs? Or is it so easily available (though I can't seem to find one in 110 or 240) that it's not a discussion item? Or is it that not many people want to run twin pumps 50/50?

And a question about Novaris' "car door actuators"... are we talking about a car door LOCK actuator? Or car door window? Actually I just realized that the vans with power side doors would use a Door Actuator, is that what we're talking about? I'm guessing from the shorter "throw" that a door lock actuator is the component being used.

You'd be better off running a pump failure cutover switch. Many pumps prefer continuous flow for longevity.
You could either use a flow switch, or a current transformer linked to a switch.
Flow switch would be simpler, but less reliable.

I somewhat agree with you Kuda, but I don't see too much harm in cycling a pump every hour or so. Most of the submersible pond pumps are designed to run continuous. But, you can also get sump pumps that are designed to cycle on a regular basis. The less cycling it does, the longer it will last. Heck, if you leave it off, it will last forever!

I have the biggest pieces of junk pumps you can buy....Harbor Freight! The submersible pond pump has been running for about a year and it cycles 7-8 times a day. I also have a sump pump in the floor that the beds drain into that cycles every few minutes...still going strong (but I have a spare one in a box....just in case)

Regardless, The little timer controller I made up has 2 poles on the 15-amp relay. Sminfiddle, could easily run two alternating pumps on it. But, there's no way to turn off both at the same time. The relay is always in contact with position A or B...nothing in the middle.....

I've had two different experiences with harbor freight pumps. I got a cheap sump pump from them that I don't think was appropriate to fish water. It corroded and quit working in a matter of months. It was running on a float switch but I don't think the on off action is really to blame in that pump's demise.

The better experience I've had has been with some of the little pond/fountain or large aquarium pumps. The ones sold over in the garden section rather than with all the other pumps. I have several of those 258 gph pumps and for a small pump they seem rather tough. I have abused them too. I've had one running my solar heater before and I'm sure those pumps are not meant for hot water but I haven't killed it yet. However, those small pumps are not going to do much for anything but a small system. I think the biggest system I might ask of one of those pumps would be a barrel ponics set up.

yeah, you are playing roulette with their pumps. I have (I should say had) one of the well pumps that has the small bladder tank under it. I connected it to my tank that collects rain water and then use it to irrigate the garden. Totally my fault...but it is NOT designed to be left out in the rain. It also didn't like sucking up leaves from the tank. And probably letting it freeze didn't help much either. I totally blame them for making a pump that isn't designed to handle MY neglect!

On the flip side, I work for Iwaki America....they make some mighty fine process pumps. They aren't cheap! If I were running a commercial system....I'd probably use.... the cheap Harbor Freight pumps. I could burn through 5-6 of these and it would still be cheaper.

If you leave the pump on 24/7 there is a manual switch on the top of the spider that could be switched by a solenoid on a timer. Just put a T in the feed pipe from the pump with a length of pipe going up higher than head to help the pump handle the switch as the valve goes to the next position.

The "manual" switch on top of a spider valve will only work manually when there is no flow through the valve. While there is flow through the valve the cam is holding the valve in the one position.

Yes you can run a pump constantly and use some other type of valve before a spider to effect the on/off action that will allow the spider to index forward. However, most cheap solenoid valves that people might think of first for such a situation, are not necessarily appropriate for the flows and pressures involved in Aquaponics. Most irrigation solenoid valves require a certain amount of differential pressure to operate and then you need a timer to operate the solenoid valve. So we are right back to the issue of repeat cycle timers.

Spider valves require a good amount of flow but not necessarily pressure.

Now as far as low pressure valves that could be automated, well I've started a thread about that.
http://backyardaquaponics.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6382&hilit=low+pressure

And it goes well with this repeat cycle timer thread since I'm using one of the repeat cycle timer ideas to run my low pressure valve and would still be interested in one of Novaris kits for something to take over from my bread board variable by temperature 555 timer based set up. Though it is still working fine for now other than needing to replace the rubber bands every so often. I have not had the time to look into modifying my car door actuator the way Novaris showed though that does look like the most elegant method.

I believe this would be a good solution. Or you could use 2 of my timers, they are designed to link in series, so pump one runs for its on time then stops for its off time then signals pump 2 to start its cycle. Pump 2 signals pump 1 when it has finished.

There is a good solenoid valve in the back of washing machines that directs water for sud saving.
Didn't realise the maunal switch needed the flow to stop to work. That was the idea of the T to take the pressure while the cam moved.

When the flow stops the spring is able to push up the mechanism and as it goes up it indexes half way to the next port and when flow starts again the mechanism goes down into that next port. When there is no water flowing through the valve, you can push the mechanism down and it will spring back up indexing forward as when flow stops and you can repeat this process so that when the water comes on the next time the valve will be in the position you want it in. The indexing valves like for irrigation require the water flow to them to start and stop in order for them to index, they are not motorized like Web4deb's designs.

However, I do believe that one could set up an arrangement where the pump could run constantly and an additional valve (like suggested) could control the flow to them while there is a T or bypass so that when that valve is closed the flow has some where else to go to avoid overflows or stressing the pump. I'm not certain that an irrigation solenoid valve would be appropriate (large pressure differentials required and high pressure or flow loss though the solenoid valve-however they are generally cheap enough to try without a big loss if they don't work for the situation) or that a washing machine solenoid would allow enough flow for a large spider valve but I believe there are ways that this could be made to work.