Backyard Aquaponics
A place to discuss aquaponics

That truly is a work of art, I am impressed!

There's absolutely nothing to it,
I'm sure there are others on the forum who would do better job of it.

If you or anybody else interested, will describe it in more details.
Cheers, Steve S.

Be happy if you would Steve S.... just so that I can copy it.... if you don't mind

not a problem

What I took into consideration:
the transparent polycarbonate cover facing sun if possible,
but under a shade cloth

the bigger bung high,(if both not the same), and facing the side
where I would want to pull out power cord through the bung hole
if using a heated propagating tray or water fogger.

Material:
blue barrel (from Drum Brokers, 22 Cahill Street, Dandenong, Vic.
$20 washed out (also have IBCs $200 or $250 washed out))
polycarbonate sheet (B, $26 per m, 1m wide)
capillary matting ??? not much - http://autopot.com.au
root control mat ??? not much - http://autopot.com.au
smart-valve - $27.50 + $5 cover - http://autopot.com.au/

had at hand -
angle and flat bracing steel
16mm gal.pipe
wents
black polypipe and fittings
black drain pipe
selftaper screws
nuts& bolts
scoria

Method:
“Being back home one week only after a knee replacement surgery,
the only power tool I were game to use was a cordless drill.”

Used thin wire to measure ½ barrel circumference on one end (from seam to seam),
cut the wire and fold in ½ to get ¼ circunf.

Positioned the barrel as it will be used, big bung on top,
used folded wire to measure and mark ¼ circunf. from top seam on both ends
and use straight edge to draw line joining both marks.

The same on the other side but first folded the wire in 1/2 again to measure only 1/8 circumference.

With the help of flexible straight edge draw line on each side joining the horizontal lines.
Allowed about 30mm flat strip on each end for the cower to rest on.

Drilled holes in each corner and cut the marked part out with a panel saw.

Cut two lengths of angle brace to measure and screwed to the front and back edge
with selftappers to reinforce them, and covered each with a length of split black polypipe.

Cut a length of 16mm gal. pipe for a crossbar, long enough to fit in from the inside
and to overlap enough to allow for it to be bolted to the sides.
Flattened the ends, drilled the holes, bolted to the sides right on the seam
and covered with a split black polypipe.

Drilled 7/8 hole between bottom bung and the rim for ¾ rubber bung and elbow fitting
for the drain and fitted them.

Cut out vent holes and fitted vents on both sides.
(need to put in flywire when I get hand on a piece).

Cut polycarbonate sheet to measure, allowing for generous overlap at front and back.
Reinforced the front with angle brace bent to U shape, fitted, squeezed with wise-grip
along the length and popriveted and drilled in two holes for hook-on bolts.

Positioned on the barrel as needed and fastened at the back with a length of flat brace
and selftappers.
Before tightening the screws, slid behind the brace a length of split polypipe.
(Instead of the flat brace a length of squashed (run over) polypipe would do the job).

Tightened the cover over the barrel and used the two holes at front of the cover as guides
to drill holes in the barrel for the hook-on bolts.

Nearly ready, moved the “Propagator” in its place,
cut and fitted the black drainpipe. (Will be used to renew the water if or when needed).

Filled with enough scoria to cover well the drain pipe.

Drilled holes in the bottom of a plastic box big enough for smart-valve and partly bury it
in the scoria.
Cut two sheets of capillary matting and a sheet of a root control mat to put on the gravel bed.

Put in the Smart-valve and drill a hole in the propagator side for its 4mm water inlet pipe.

Filed with water and started using it.

This propagator is a replacement for an older one made from gal. sheets
that I trashed to make room for the sump tanks.

more picks

and the last ones

You're a gem Steve S... thanks mate...

What exquisite instructions and diagrams. Makes me want to go build one.

Steve, you are amazing, thank you

Learn something every time I log on the forum, with no credits given,
so only glad if it's of any use to somebody.

I have made a compost tumbler out of a blue barrel before.
I found that I needed to us some wood backing behind the screws so as not to risk scratching myself since I didn't have machine screws with bolts on hand.

I didn't set up any roller stand for it, just rolled it along the ground. Had to be careful that the door latch didn't pop open.

One thing to make sure of, Make the hole big enough to be easy to empty and fill.

I've since decided that regular compost pile on ground is easier. If you must make it tidy some fencing and posts will do. I don't turn compost anyway.

Guys I have seen this first hand, it really is a work of art! In fact Steve made it so well, that he has to leave the door ajar sometimes so that it doesn't get TOO hot...
I am planning on making a couple of my barrels into these propagators to make seeding easier.

Wow, nice work Steve S., I don't know how I missed this thread! Just saw it on your sig.

I'm only resopnding to this one about a year after this but great idea and a simple cheap solution, I've been wondering how to help propogate seedlings.

I have one question around your liquid fertiliser method
When you put weeds in there and let them rot in the water, surely seeds from some weeds will remain ? Or do you filter it with mesh ?

It's good when some of these old ones get revived... Can't say I've every heard of that being a problem, if there are seeds, generally you would probably leave the weeds in there for a few weeks, so they may start to germinate but they will die off in the tub of water.