Backyard Aquaponics
A place to discuss aquaponics

Are the materials in this type of PVC piping the same as the ordinary PVC used for potable water? Is anyone here using PVC pipes made for "Central Vaccums" ?

Are they labeled different than the ones for drinking water?

It will be hard for anyone to know without more info.

The main worry about using materials not specifically safe for drinking water is that the companies may not have to meet the same guidelines about what is in the materials. Often times totes and bins could be just fine for food contact but the companies haven't gone through the extra cost of getting the produce labeled as such. Other times the non potable water or non food safe stuff has lead or other not good stuff in them but since they are not selling the stuff for food or drinking water contact, they don't have to publicize the materials.

I've been using the 3 and 4 inch drainage pipes for stuff in my systems and they are not labeled as "drinking water safe".

Here in OZ... the "vacuum" pipe and fittings are often a non-standard size... getting fittings/adaptors might be a nightmare...

The only stuff for central vacuum systems is made in Canada, and exported all around the world. For us it is expensive and harder to get. it is of an odd size.
I expect it wont be as strong as water pipes, but cannot possibly guess what might be in the PVC. It's possible like electrical conduit that it has toxins that would be released into water, but aren't a problem as they're only designed for removing air into a rubbish bag.
Unless you could get onto the manufacturer and ask them, I wouldn't use them.

Hmm if it's just a drainage with no pressure from a pump pushing water through it, I'm assuming the water flowing through these pipes won't exacerbate the release of the toxins (if present)? Or is my guess incorrect?

Your guess is incorrect... but not for the reason you think...

The "acidic" nature of aquaponic systems will exaserbate the leaching of any toxins...

Electrical conduit is definitely out due to lead content in the fillers/colours... and I'd be wary of the "vacuum" pipe as well... as it doesn't have to conform to potable water standards... or even stormwater standards... I'd tend to think it might be suspect... and probably isn't UV stabilised... because it's intended for internal usage...

+1
on all counts.

arghh, i'm gettin' cancer then.

Worse. Your fish might die.

When I built my house, I installed a central vac. The pipes are far thinner than a standard schedule 40 pipe and are quite brittle, even worse when it's cold. I found a couple of pieces in my basement so here are some measurements with my micrometer:

2" PVC: ID=2.02" (51.3mm) OD= 2.38" (60mm) ASTM=D-1785
Vac tube: ID=1.99" (48.33mm) OD=2.00" (51mm) ASTM=F2158

The vac tube does side up perfectly into the 2" so you could always made an adapter to connect into 2" fittings, but it seems like a waste of materal/time to do that. I think you're best staying with the standard pipe.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think the ASTM defines the pressure rating and chemicals that are used in the manufacturing: http://www.astm.org/Standards/D1785.htm and http://www.astm.org/Standards/F2158.htm

My vote is also to stay away from it.

Poor fishies...

Web4Deb, I'm assuming I only *really* have to worry about stuff like this if I build a bigger system. I mean... the total length of all my piping is only 3 feet. And I'm only planning on eating the plant yields... and there wouldn't be much yield from a 25 gallon grow bed anyways.

Roughly 1 feet from standard PVC pipes, 1 feet of braided PVC tubing, and 1.5 feet of the vaccum pipes.

We can rationalise anything if we try.
In the end the decision comes down to the individual.

Ya know, it doesn't cost much to pick up a stick of PVC drinking water pipe and a few fittings. A 10 foot stick of 1 inch pressure pipe (which is drinking water pipe according to the printing right on it) is less than $2. I usually use the thinwall pressure pipe for most things since it is a little cheaper than sch 40 and lighter weight and easier to cut.

Combine this with possible degradation over time in sunlight... if not UV stabalised... and possible affects of temperature...

I'd go with TCL's suggestion myself...

Ok.

Well this kinda sucks. It's labor day today and school starts tomorrow. And when school starts, all hell breaks loose. I'm not the type of person who can focus on many things at once. I wish I could of found out about this hobby 2 weeks earlier.

So, umm... so far my AP's ammonia readings are now 1.0 ppm from the 2.0 ppm I dosed roughly a day and a half ago. Ahh it's too bad I gotta stop this process for 3 days; gonna have to drain out half my fish tank and then re-apply the plumbing. Damn silicon glue wants me to wait at least 2 days before exposing it to water.

Oh... hmmm it looks like I'm talking to myself. I guess I could just cycle with the sump and grow bed. My Moringa seedlings rose up overnight too! Any tips on what I could fertilize them for the first 3 weeks while the fish poop are not present? Or hmmm, maybe I could let some fish food decompose in the sump for delivering nutrients to the young seedlings?


Other concerns:

The drainage coming from the grow bed and into the sump is really loud, so I decided to put braided PVC flexible tubing to make the water hit the glass. Are there any worries with "Braided PVC tubing" ?

I also have this "Eheim" tubing bought from the LFS, freakin' 2 bucks per foot, any worries for that? Or do you think I should replace all my flexible tubings along-while I shop for the replacement of the vaccum pipes?