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Your current favorite pump brand. Come back and recast your vote as often as needed.
Aquapro 11%  11%  [ 8 ]
Ebara 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
Grundfos 3%  3%  [ 2 ]
Jebao 21%  21%  [ 15 ]
Laguna 29%  29%  [ 20 ]
Messner 1%  1%  [ 1 ]
Oase 4%  4%  [ 3 ]
Tetra 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
Other 23%  23%  [ 16 ]
Dissatisfied with my last pump, still forming an opinion on my new pump 7%  7%  [ 5 ]
Total votes : 70
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PostPosted: Mar 27th, '09, 20:05 
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hygicell wrote:
a floating switch is very difficult to adjust and protect your pump against running dry and needs a lot of room to operate


I have a float switch on the ebara in my septic system and can't see how it it either difficult to operate or how it can let the pump run dry if it is secured adequately and set up properly (so that it always cuts out before the sump empties). My ebara has it's float switch zip tied to the pump outlet pipe and once set once has never had to be adjusted. The reserviour tank that it operates in is about 500x500mm which is alot smaller than any sump I would plan to use.


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PostPosted: Mar 27th, '09, 20:33 
Same as every BYAP system sold and installed with Ebara pumps... never seen or heard of anyone having any problems what so ever... :shock:

And a quick look around will find an enormous range of pumps, some spanning decades... that have float switches...


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PostPosted: Mar 27th, '09, 22:48 
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have it your way, guys
I did not contest the reliability of a float switch
and was only trying to help

if the pump is already equipped with a float switch
that is probably the easiest solution
but most pond pumps aren't
and I believe that was the situation depicted
neither is the pump OBO put forward
which to my knowledge beats all other pumps in energy efficiency
(again to my knowledge) including the Ebara cellar pumps you suggest
(I am an Ebara industrial customer)

personally I do not consider zip tying a float switch to a pipe the best solution where fine adjustment possibilities go
the alternative I put forward does provide for this

... but then again,
who am I?

frank


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PostPosted: Mar 28th, '09, 05:28 
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mbar type the one you had in your hand. Do you have a picture or a link.
The other float switchs that the Ebara pumps have can be purchased seperatly and installed to control the pond pumps. I even have a similar pump in a 20ltr sump for a sink thats been going for months while I get round to finishing the grease trap. But fine adjustment might be handy for multi stage filtering.


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PostPosted: Apr 4th, '09, 15:05 
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HI

I followed ur advice hygicell and got a tornado, got he 6000 model as i think the 3000 would have been 2 small, also got a float switch like outbackozzie suggested, will let u know how it goes, will be aweek before it arrives

Bree

:cheers:


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PostPosted: Apr 4th, '09, 15:16 
hygicell wrote:
have it your way, guys
I did not contest the reliability of a float switch
and was only trying to help

if the pump is already equipped with a float switch
that is probably the easiest solution
but most pond pumps aren't
and I believe that was the situation depicted


Nope, you didn't... you questioned the ability to adjust "float switches"... to protect the pump from running dry...

hygicell wrote:
a floating switch is very difficult to adjust and protect your pump against running dry and needs a lot of room to operate


People merely pointed out that float switches were designed (parially) to prevent exactly that occurance... and supported the reliability factor of float switches in general....

And that a simple "adjustment" of height by a zip tie was both effective, durable, maintenance free... and doesn't really require much space at all.... :wink:


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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '09, 04:00 
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Dufflight wrote:
mbar type the one you had in your hand. Do you have a picture or a link.
The other float switchs that the Ebara pumps have can be purchased seperatly and installed to control the pond pumps. I even have a similar pump in a 20ltr sump for a sink thats been going for months while I get round to finishing the grease trap. But fine adjustment might be handy for multi stage filtering.


apparently I do not always receive a notice when something is posted on a subject
so sorry for the late response:
http://www.hubacontrol.com/en/products/ ... /type-625/
http://www.hubacontrol.com/fileadmin/us ... 625_EN.pdf
http://www.hubacontrol.com/fileadmin/us ... 625_EN.pdf

the ones I have mostly used on my central cleaning systems can be adjusted to the cm between 12.5 and 80 cm with a screwdriver or even by hand (but take care of electrocution !!!)

I mounted them externally: no space taken in the tank
you only need to drill a 1/4" hole in the tank at the height you want it to function, pass it through, screw on the retaining nut, make the electrical connection and off you go

or of you prefer you can mount it on top of the tank and connect a tube to below lowest water level
the pressure of the air rising with the rising water will action the switch
just make sure no air bubbles from i.e. a diffuser can enter the tube

hard to beat that where space is concerned

both switching point and switching difference can be adjusted

the switch is alternating and has a NO and a NC contact
so can be connected to an alarm: the pump or solenoid valve is cut off and the alarm rings

on a multi 1000$ installation water shortage can have dire consequences
so I used two: one to switch the pump or solenoid valve, a second one for extra protection (alarm level)
this is called redundancy and is standard practice in industrial setups
I switched these over a PLC which was programmed to retain the alarm in memory as this meant an intervention was needed:
a reset button had to be pressed when the alarm level was reached

as you can see there is a wide range available to suit your application

frank


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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '09, 04:51 
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RupertofOZ wrote:
Nope, you didn't... you questioned....

Rupe,
1. space:
the switches I suggested like I mount them take 1 cm³ of tank space or less
(a smart and imaginative man can even lessen that to zero tank space using these same switches, if you want to I can explain)
can you beat that with a floating switch?

2. adjustment:
they can be adjusted instantly to the cm
both in switching point and in switching differential with the turn of a screw or maybe two
the one not affecting the other
can you beat that with your zip ties?

all of this you could have known by simply googling to Huba Control and strolling around on the site

3. As for reliability:
I didn't (yet) contest the reliability of float switches as you acknowledge
but if you wish so I can:
if floating switches were more reliable I would have used them, believe me
and I did
I tried most existing models
and then I'm talking industrial float switches, not the ones "adjustable" with zip ties

I once refused delivery of a $100.000 industrial plastic crate washing machine because it was equipped with float switches
this at the risk of losing a very profitable deal
The very respectful and worldwide renown manufacturer adamantly refused to admit that these switches could at times be unreliable
while in that same year I had had to replace five of them on other machines from this same manufacturer (on which I had received no commission) at my own expense (working hours, traveling hours, spare parts)
That is how I treat my customers: if any part of any machine is faulty when it shouldn't, the customer doesn't pay

I am not claiming the switches I propose are absolutely fail safe.
No mechanical device is, no electronic device is.
but they are the best mechanical switches I have found in 35 years of experience in building and selling industrial installations for the food industry
can you beat that?

for years now I have realized that you have a problem to accept anybody's possible expertise except your own on any subject
instead you prefer to misinterpret words
and refuse to admit that the contributions of others might be only meant to help
you tire me
please treat me with the same regards I treat you

frank


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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '09, 08:52 
Until your last post Frank... I was unaware of the space taken by these devices...

And had only seen you reference the adjustment height of the devices you quote...

My post as such addressed the claim that float switches were "unreliable" and "needed lots of space to operate"....

Neither claim seemed to be backed by peoples experience....

I don't dispute your claim as the efficiency and/or reliability (or otherwise) of float switches or the level controls you mention... in relation to washing machines....

I know little about them Frank...

Your last post provides information that wasn't available.... short of persuing a "google" search... and now provided gives information that may be discussed...

Thanks


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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '09, 09:31 
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Wonder if they will clog up. Frank do you have to clean them out or are you still filtering out solids in your system.


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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '09, 09:33 
Actually haven't had a look for a while... how's that system of yours coming along Frank?


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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '09, 11:03 
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RupertofOZ wrote:
I don't dispute your claim...

must be the understatement not of the year but of the eve, Rupe
whenever I have posted whatever you have done nothing but dispute
Quote:
as the efficiency and/or reliability (or otherwise) of float switches or the level controls you mention... in relation to washing machines....

do you really mean you have never seen a washing machine or a dishwasher?
or never wondered how the water level was regulated in these machines that even with very dirty water almost never fail?
(which answers Dufflight's question)
Quote:
I know little about them Frank...

still you systematically contest my experience
Quote:
Your last post provides information that wasn't available....

I must have posted the reference to this level switch at at least two or three previous occasions on this forum (with the direct links), check it out if you wish
Quote:
short of persuing a "google" search...

now what is wrong with you and Duff doing your part of the homework
especially if I (always) provide you with the reference, manufacturers's name or even part number, often with direct links to what I am talking about?
this is not limited to this particular level switch but to all my posts: there is always a reference
surf to the links or google the reference and you will with little effort find the information
Quote:
and now provided gives information that may be discussed...

ask questions and yes, I will try to answer them, I have shown I always do
but please stop discussing my experience
I've had enough of that
Quote:
Thanks

finally, so thanks too

I am not angry, only very annoyed
you are continually testing my patience

now let's get positive again:
here is the explanation on how to make this switch completely (if that exists) unaffected by whatever contamination in the water:
look at the cut through drawings of the switch:
http://www.hubacontrol.com/fileadmin/us ... 625_EN.pdf
you can see the body consists of two chambers separated by the membrane
a "dry" chamber which contains the switch and it's adjustments
and a "wet" chamber connected to the vessel of which the level is measured by ways of the connecting channel which I suppose might eventually clog
dismount the level switch and discard the "wet" chamber
instead drill a hole in the tank the size just a bit smaller than the membrane diameter
then mount the "dry" chamber directly over the hole
now your tank replaces the "wet" chamber and the membrane is in direct contact with the tank
No tank space is used at all
as good as absolutely fail proof

I have imagined this solution years ago
but never had to recur to it
the only ones of these switches I have known to fail were after on average over three years of lack of maintenance
and most often with hot water and changing temperatures when lime deposits clogged the switch
dismount (4 screws), clean (often only rinse), remount, and off you go again

millions of this type of switches protect your dishwashers and washing machines

hope this helps

frank


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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '09, 11:13 
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RupertofOZ wrote:
Actually haven't had a look for a while... how's that system of yours coming along Frank?

actually it is coming along fine, thanks for the concern
plant growth is starting as we come out of winter

but this is another annoying question which can easily be solved by surfing to my to you well known website:
http://www.aquaponics.eu/
which is regularly updated
but of which the intentions have been systematically questioned, even to the point where it was suggested that I "borrowed" pictures from systems not my own
there is a small group of members on this forum that just doesn't seem to grant me the light of day

I now own a 7 ha lake. Pictures posted, all genuine.

frank


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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '09, 11:31 
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Was only asking you coz the makers would not tell people if bio film & fish poo blocks up there gear. You are using one in AP so you are the better one to ask.


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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '09, 12:03 
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RupertofOZ wrote:
hygicell wrote:
have it your way, guys
I did not contest the reliability of a float switch
and was only trying to help

if the pump is already equipped with a float switch
that is probably the easiest solution
but most pond pumps aren't
and I believe that was the situation depicted


Nope, you didn't... you questioned the ability to adjust "float switches"... to protect the pump from running dry...

hygicell wrote:
a floating switch is very difficult to adjust and protect your pump against running dry and needs a lot of room to operate


People merely pointed out that float switches were designed (parially) to prevent exactly that occurance... and supported the reliability factor of float switches in general....

And that a simple "adjustment" of height by a zip tie was both effective, durable, maintenance free... and doesn't really require much space at all.... :wink:



+1 has got to be the easiest to install and adjust with a simple cable tie(or zip tie as some ap'ers call em lol)


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