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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '09, 08:59 
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RupertofOZ wrote:
You could perhaps turn the pump off during the winter nights and not flood & drain the growbeds.... :dontknow:

Of course you'd have to supply oxygenation to the fish tank overnight...


But see the problem I think I had last year is that I turned it off overnight, and because of that the rocks were wet and the nights were cold and the rocks actually froze, which meant that the bacteria either stopped working or died. Either that or it was just too cold for them to be doing their job. So what I want to stop is the growbeds themselves from freezing. I thought maybe a layer of carpet over the top? Anyone done that? That'd be benifital for other reasons - worms come right to the top, stops evaporation etc etc

RupertofOZ wrote:
Haven't seen the solar heaters from Bunnings... can you post a pic?

Yep, I'll post it up this arvo.
Food&Fish wrote:
Personally i would thermocouple the tank to the concrete then on the freezing nights run the pump all night on auto syphons flowing water should not freeze and if running trout keeping the water cooler longer will help


So you're going against conventional wisdom which is to turn off pumping overnight to conserve heat? So I just continually pump so that I lose plenty of heat but it never gets below zero... I spose if I had everything pretty well insulated anyway (ala carpet and old insulation around everything) then I don't stand to loose too much heat... I like the idea. But why thermally couple to the slab? Wouldn't that mean I loose heat quicker? Or are you thinking it'll help temperature swings by just adding thermal mass?

As for running water not freezing - I've posted these before:
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That's running water, frozen solid.


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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '09, 09:29 
Yeah I see your point Gemmel... and F&F's point.... continuing to pump and flow the water would/should keep things from freezing...

But as you've found... that depends on whether the flow rate is high/fast enough to prevent freezing....

The problem with pumping through the growbeds overnight is the temperature loss that occurs by doing so... still with trout, that might not be of such concern... :dontknow:


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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '09, 09:35 
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JAI, bury the irrigation grid more, might take longer to freeze.


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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '09, 09:56 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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My reply is working on trout for that you need cool


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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '09, 09:58 
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I had 40L of still water in a buried sump that didn`t freeze even with an overnight temp of -12C. It was open to the air except for a weedbarrier fabric over the top to prevent stuff falling into it.
The standing water in the above ground hose from the sub pump in the sump froze solid even though it was covered with snow. Thermal mass makes all the difference :wink:


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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '09, 10:38 
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Food&Fish wrote:
My reply is working on trout for that you need cool


Yeh, 12 degrees is the ideal temp for trout. But in winter down here the max temps are 12 degrees, minimums around 0. My water temps were 6 to 8 last year and I had lots of ammonia. So I don't necissarily want it to be as cold as it can be.

Anyway, here is the pic of the B* solar collector. Might also put it in another thread so those that don't read my thread can check it out.


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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '09, 11:47 
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So you are the nuisance kicking up all the dust that we need to wear a mask for!!!


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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '09, 12:57 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Arrrgh! same pic in multiple threads!!! I was wondering where my reply had gone, I almost made it again!!!! Apparently I'm not quite with it today :-(


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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '09, 13:26 
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KudaPucat wrote:
Arrrgh! same pic in multiple threads!!! I was wondering where my reply had gone, I almost made it again!!!! Apparently I'm not quite with it today :-(


Hehe, I even said:
gemmell wrote:
Might also put it in another thread so those that don't read my thread can check it out.


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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '09, 14:45 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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I know, but I always look at the pictures first :oops: then decide if I should read... saves me from half the semantics discussions.


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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '09, 16:29 
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A picture's worth a thousand posts?


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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '09, 16:47 
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KudaPucat wrote:
Arrrgh! same pic in multiple threads!!! I was wondering where my reply had gone, I almost made it again!!!! Apparently I'm not quite with it today :-(


Give him a break.........It's Friday :cheers:
:wav:


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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '09, 17:26 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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despite being a Friday, it was more a comment on my cogitative skills, rather than picking on Gemmel. Still buy one, I'm interested.
Mate of mine has a little pool like in the pic, gonna try and convince him :-)


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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '09, 20:43 
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gemmell wrote:
Food&Fish wrote:
Personally i would thermocouple the tank to the concrete then on the freezing nights run the pump all night on auto syphons flowing water should not freeze and if running trout keeping the water cooler longer will help


So you're going against conventional wisdom which is to turn off pumping overnight to conserve heat? So I just continually pump so that I lose plenty of heat but it never gets below zero... I spose if I had everything pretty well insulated anyway (ala carpet and old insulation around everything) then I don't stand to loose too much heat... I like the idea. But why thermally couple to the slab? Wouldn't that mean I loose heat quicker? Or are you thinking it'll help temperature swings by just adding thermal mass?


I think folks normally turn off pumping to conserve heat to warmer-loving fish like barra or tilapia. Trout should be ok...

It would be nice to have a location where the high summer sun will not penetrate, but the low winter sun strikes full-on. Any chance of that?

Extra thermal mass (especially with buried systems) makes a huge diff in daily fluctuations, but also with seasonal ones as the earth a meter or so down tends to fluctuate just a couple degrees from yearly average temperature.


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PostPosted: Feb 21st, '09, 02:01 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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gemmell wrote:
Hey, just did some quick searching.

"Allow the water temperature to change as the seasons change. While goldfish don't like temperatures over 75°F (24°C), they do seem to like seasonal variations where the temperature falls to the high 50s or 60s (15-20°c) in the winter. Fancier goldfish are an exception and cannot easily tolerate temperatures below about 60°F (16°c). Be aware that goldfish will not eat below 50-55°F (10-14°c)."

From http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Goldfish-Live-for-Decades

This site : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goldfish Completely contradicts it.

<sigh> information is so hard to find.

That 10 to 14 goldfish wont eat thats by the book was reading an american site there goldfish pond freezes over every year when melts the goldies are still there


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