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PostPosted: Oct 10th, '08, 16:10 
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TCLynx wrote:
A quick comment on the worries about a tsunami effect in the fish ponds. So long as you design the fish pond with enough extra height above the overflow, a bit of a tsunami isn't going to hurt anything. I do know the point of CHIFT is to keep the height pretty steady but a bit of fluctuation above the normal level won't hurt the fish unless the pond winds up overflowing and the fish take to jumping out or somthing.

A fast rush of water from the grow beds splashing into the ponds provides some wonderful aeration and a bit of a swirl to the water can definitely help collect the solids near the outflow pipe if the layout is appropriate for that.

I agree.... have grown a certain fondness for this tsunami :D Kidding. But I would rather build in the displacement for the sudden water rise than fiddle with getting all GBs to work optimally on differing flouts. One triple flout to do the work for the whole joined bed.... and a splash plate to handle the thrust fo the exiting water before if splashes down into the Pond.....increasing DO just as you say TCL. :cheers:


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PostPosted: Oct 10th, '08, 16:26 
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hygicell wrote:
measured on Chelle's drawing that would make for 36 m of rope pump compared to 7 m of rope pump if vertical
That would mean 5 times more friction, so quintuple power needed
I would not do this if it were electrically or wind driven
if it can be driven by a paddlewheel then it depends on how much power can be gotten from the water flow
If river driven it would be perfect and I would go with the rope pump on the slope.... just cos can't quite see how to get enough torque up there from the river yet doesn't mean not possible. :D Needs "ripening" :cheers:
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but there are more problems to solve: the rope pump needs to have it's drive axis on top and horizontal
a waterwheel has a horizontal axis but would then have to be installed at the top of the greenhouse which will mean loss of power
all depends on where the river is situated
Huh? Don't understand the part about about waterwheel on top of GH :drunken: .

Quote:
I also think that pipe that comes in a roll will be too small diameter
for a setup like Chelle's you would need at least 50 mm
Can buy 50mm on a roll here Frank.

Quote:
I would probably opt for a diaphragm pump:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diaphragm_pump

or make a piston pump myself with a soft rubber ball as piston and two soft rubber balls as valves
seems that would be easy to make

frank

PS thanks for the sketchup tip, Dave

Double goal. Rope pump can well-serve the poor. More interested in getting it to work effectively for me and being able to help under-priviledged do the same. Diaphragm pumps need too much more. I think your field of expertise gives you advantage here Frank, but I want something that is easily transferrable under multiple conditions. Prefer the KISS solution here again. :flower: Definitely within my technical comfort zone too! :D


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PostPosted: Oct 10th, '08, 17:32 
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very interesting document on human powered pumps:
http://practicalaction.org/practicalans ... cts_id=198
you have to register to download, but it gives a very thorough explanation of the possibilities
with very clear drawings a.o of a diaphragm pump and many others.

another interesting pump, worldwide used:
http://www.vergnet.fr/index.php?option= ... 49&lang=en

frank


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PostPosted: Oct 10th, '08, 18:49 
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from the same site:
windpumping
http://practicalaction.org/practicalans ... cts_id=177
hydraulic ram pumps:
http://practicalaction.org/practicalans ... cts_id=141
On-farm fish culture:
http://www.anancy.net/uploads/file_en/2 ... screen.pdf

and many other interesting subjects:
http://practicalaction.org/practicalans ... gories.php

frank


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PostPosted: Oct 10th, '08, 19:07 
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there are many ways to make your own growbeds cheaply, Chelle
one of them, and particularly suited for you, is ferrocement

see this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1404&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=ferrocement

frank


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PostPosted: Oct 10th, '08, 20:38 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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As for the tower, if you will be needing a tower for wind power anyway, just place it down at the sump and the rope pump lifts the water up as high as it needs to go where it can then flow into a larger pipe that is either supported horizontally over to the header tank (this could be tricky.) Or you can use even bigger pipe and have it drop down then follow the grade of the hill back up then up and into the header tank. So long as the top of the pump side of the pipe is enough higher than the header tank, gravity will do the rest for you.

This might not be the most elegant method but it is pretty simple and thus relatively easy.


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PostPosted: Oct 10th, '08, 20:41 
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Sparkchaser wrote:
Gee, a coil pump can lift water up to 80', about 25 meters. A rope pump or diaphragm pump look like an a lot more work to build than a coil system. I've never used a rope pump, but have used many diaphragm pumps. Stuff gets hung up in the check valves all the time, causing them to lose flow. Then you have to take the pump apart to clean it....

Take a look here for more data on what you could expect from a coil pump.
http://lurkertech.com/water/pump/tailer/

Wonderful doc SC! I have copied to file to read more closely. I know that personally I am completely sold on the coil pump in whatever form.

Today I have learned that my static head from river to tank.... at the top of my proposed AP site........ is 42 meters. The actual slope of the site is 10 degrees.31'. I was surprised. I thought it was steeper. Now to see how to get this info transferred into Sketchup! :D :drunken:

I would definitely use the spiral wheel from river to first stage.... build as big as possible to gain as much head as possible. This is easy ... ish!... to build and so makes maintenance great... no need to always be calling in some expensive repair man. I would definitely need to be able to hoist it out of the river should flooding threaten... this can happen very quickly with river rising up to 10 meters. This will put the limitations on diameter of spiral wheel for me. But until now it is the first way I have seen to get the water out of the river and up to some sort of reasonable head.... so absolutely thrilled with it..... :cheers:

Quote:
The very principle that allows this pump to create columns of water within its coils, that of alternately taking in air and water, also acts to increase the delivery head. The air, which is compressed as it moves toward the center of the wheel, expands as it goes up the delivery pipe, producing a lift effect on the water. Testing proved this effect by showing that the actual head reached was greater than that indicated by the pressure gauge in the system.


Your doc has got me re-thinking spiral pump from sump to top tank.... It is very compact and that attracts me.... no extra tank needs to be built.... also possible to build the whole unit on the farm. The challenge is getting enough power to turn it. Your doc speaks of the tremendous pressure built within the wheel to effect delivery. My static head from base of AP site to top of the site is 8.826m or less.... depending on how many AP units I put in series up the hill. If the width of my sump is 2m.... plenty... and I make sure the depth is enough too.... I need to work out what diameter the coils need to be to effect delivery. Then find something with enough power to push it... :roll:


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PostPosted: Oct 10th, '08, 20:49 
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TCLynx wrote:
hygicell wrote:
all indeed true, TCLynx, but in Chelle's case we are talking of a grombad volume of over 7 m³ per growbed, so a possible water volume of 4 x 3 m³ = 12 m³
That's a lot of water!

Frank


Wait a minute, I may have missed something here but I thought we were talking about 7000-8000 l of growbed per level to make it some where close to the 1:1 ratio per level. under that assumption I was figuring perhaps 4000 l moving at a nice waterfall pace for say up to 15 minutes at a time. That will cause a level fluctuation no matter how you spread out the outlet from the flout. It requires some space for level fluctuation while the water works it's way into the next level. Now if we are talking about a water volume from those grow beds of 12 cubic meters then does that mean that each level of this system now has more than 24 cubic meters of grow beds? If that is the case, I will venture that perhaps letting the beds operate individually might be a better way to run and definitely skip the initial flout in the header tank. Otherwise the fish ponds would need to be much higher than their "normal" water level to absorb the fluctuations (like 12 cubic meters of buffer :!: :?: :!: )

There were 4 GBs of 4 by 1 by .5 = 2 cubic meters per GB.... 8 cubic meters with all 4 together.... and 60% is grow media. Your initial figures are correct TCL.


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PostPosted: Oct 10th, '08, 22:24 
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I did add an extra GB of the same size to the triple flout design, but doubled the pond size too to 18,000 litres. So lots of water to dump the tsunami into... :D

I think I want to increase GB size more proportional to the 18,000 litres of the Fish Pond now though. I will make sure there is enough displacement above the SLO.... to accomodate a lift for the wave when it hits...... :D ......and maybe put in more than one SLO.... to get the water moving down as it floods in. I do not think it a negetive.... when thrown against a splash wall it will slow speed and increase DO. Make fish pond life more interesting! :compress:


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PostPosted: Oct 10th, '08, 22:40 
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hygicell wrote:
very interesting document on human powered pumps:
http://practicalaction.org/practicalans ... cts_id=198
you have to register to download, but it gives a very thorough explanation of the possibilities
with very clear drawings a.o of a diaphragm pump and many others.

another interesting pump, worldwide used:
http://www.vergnet.fr/index.php?option= ... 49&lang=en

frank

Both very interesting sites... worth registering on the first one.


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PostPosted: Oct 10th, '08, 22:51 
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hygicell wrote:

Really nice links Frank. Thank you. Finding that on farm fish culture a good read. :D :flower:


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PostPosted: Oct 10th, '08, 22:56 
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TCLynx wrote:
As for the tower, if you will be needing a tower for wind power anyway, just place it down at the sump and the rope pump lifts the water up as high as it needs to go where it can then flow into a larger pipe that is either supported horizontally over to the header tank (this could be tricky.) Or you can use even bigger pipe and have it drop down then follow the grade of the hill back up then up and into the header tank. So long as the top of the pump side of the pipe is enough higher than the header tank, gravity will do the rest for you.

This might not be the most elegant method but it is pretty simple and thus relatively easy.

It would be one way of doing it. Join windpower and tower in one. But the pipework above does bother me. Vulnerable to storms. We can have some mighty fierce weather at times. Am looking again at the spiral wheel.... lots of pondering on the whole matter of pumping sump to top tank. :roll: :D

Thanks for your thoughts TCL. :flower:


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PostPosted: Oct 10th, '08, 23:51 
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Cyara wrote:
TCLynx wrote:
hygicell wrote:
There were 4 GBs of 4 by 1 by .5 = 2 cubic meters per GB.... 8 cubic meters with all 4 together.... and 60% is grow media. Your initial figures are correct TCL.


I was not careful in calculating and relied too much on Sketchup to do it for me: Sketchup calculates volume of a whole object including the walls
and I calculated the growbeds

but I am not the only one, Chelle: I count five growbeds on your drawings (if we are talking about the same one)

anyway, lets straighten things out:
growbed surface as I calculate it on your "Chiara best so far" drawing is 4x1=4 m² x 5 beds is 20 m² x 4 tiers is 80 m², total 20 beds to build
fish tank volume is 2.5 x 2 x 1.5 (avg) = 7.5 m³ x 4 = 30 m³
add your top tank at max. filling: 2 x 6.2 x 2.8 = 34.72 m³ totals 64.72 m³

my first variation gave you 5.8 x 1= 5.8 m² x 4 beds is 23.2 m² x 4 tiers is 92.6 m² (that is over half e a tier won), total only 16 beds to build
fish tank volume is 7 x 1.8 x 1 = 12.6 m³ x 4 = 50.4 m³
add top tank at max. filling: 8.1 x 3.8 x 1.55 = 47.7 m³ totals 98.1 m³, one third more room to breed fish

my last variation gives you 7.3 x 1 = 7.3 m² x 12 beds is 87.6 m² (and I could have added another two on top which would have made a total of 102.2 m²).
That is a over a whole tier won, total only 12 or 14 beds to build
fish tank volume is 7 x 1.8 x 1 = 12.6 m³ x 4 = 50.4 m³
add top tank at max. filling: 8.1 x 3.8 x 1.55 = 88.57 m³ totals 138.97 m³, over one third more room to breed fish

or if you prefer, one tier less to build = huge economies !!! (about 20 to 25 % !!!)

I increased top tank volume instead as that will increase your independence of energy
but with a pump driven by the river water that seems less important than with one driven by the wind

of course I locate the chickens, worms and rabbits underneath the growbeds
rests me to convince you that making your own elevated growbeds will not cost more than your self made deep growbeds and have better working height, less media to buy or to wash (and to transport!) , less water, faster filling if desired, faster draining, less piping of lesser diameters, smaller tsunamis, etc...

now you should put all this in an Excel spreadsheet and decide what is best for you.

The minimal requirement for your pump recirculation capacity is what you want to breed in the biggest of the tanks, as all consecutive tanks are fed by gravity and the water is filtered each time by the growbeds

counting a minimal recirculation rate of once per hour, that would mean you need a pump that can give 50 m³/hr at 10 m head

from this point on you can calculate whether a rope pump or a coil pump could do the job and how big it will have to be and if that is feasible.

have fun, Chelle

Frank


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PostPosted: Oct 11th, '08, 04:10 
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Sparkchaser wrote:
Gee, a coil pump can lift water up to 80', about 25 meters. A rope pump or diaphragm pump look like an a lot more work to build than a coil system. I've never used a rope pump, but have used many diaphragm pumps. Stuff gets hung up in the check valves all the time, causing them to lose flow. Then you have to take the pump apart to clean it....
http://lurkertech.com/water/pump/tailer/

allow me to disagree with you on diaphragm pumps, Sparchaser:
diaphragm pumps are very simple pumps
the pump body is a simple cavity covered by the diaphragm
There are no moving parts in the pump, only the diaphragm moves up and down
They are used a lot in agriculture for spraying connected to the exit axle of the tractor and used to be the first high pressure cleaning pumps
up to 15-20 bar they work very well
with clean water they pose no problems
actually they will do better with small debris than centrifugal pumps
I have lots (hundreds) of high pressure (piston, not diaphragm) pumps that have been working for over 10.000 hours without more maintenance than an oil change once a year.
one condition: good water quality, and I consider AP water pumped after the growbeds as very good quality as it is filtered
If these pumps had higher ratings, I would not hesitate to use them in an AP setup as there is no pressure involved there
and high pressure piston pumps are far more tricky than diaphragm pumps: the piston moves back and forth in the cylinder, so all surfaces must be extremely smooth and manufactured with precision. The diaphragm pump doesn't require that.

if you had to "take the pump apart" to get at the check valves, the pump was badly designed

if you have had a lot of problems with check valves then probably the wrong type of valve was used for the quality of the water
here is a site of a company that specializes in check valves of every kind:
http://www.socla.com/home_uk.htm
download their brochure:
you will see they even have check valves for slurries and sewage
here is another:
http://www.watts.com/pdf/ES-WCV.pdf

nearly all coke vending machines have electrically driven diaphragm pumps. There must be millions of them.
nearly all air pumps for aquariums are diaphragm pumps. Millions there too (though used for pumping air).

I did have had lots of problems with air driven diaphragm pumps (don't remember me of them :mrgreen: ), but 99% of these problems situated around the air drive system, nearly never on the water side.

excuse this extensive reply :oops: , but I believe that diaphragm pumps don't get the attention they deserve, especially in aquaculture

frank


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PostPosted: Oct 11th, '08, 04:35 
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here is a beautiful example of the combination of a waterwheel and a spiral pump:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jy4yRrOw2Ww

just don't fall into the trap that it is "perpetual motion", as that is a hoax

frank


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