Backyard Aquaponics
A place to discuss aquaponics

I have a system that is FT -> sump -> pump and I still consider it CHIFT PIST because the fish tank level is constant and the pump is in the sump. If you have the vertical space then it is better for the solids to go straight to the beds rather than into the sump to moulder.

Hi OBO! Thanks for the input.....


Actually never said I wouldn't be doing more planting..... besides the extra growth expected increasing demand on the nutirents. Just interested in getting the ratios of GB to FT more balanced by reducing FT size.


My Fish Ponds were too large in my original CHIFT PIST design for the GBs size. Add to that Fish health is more dependant on water cleaning than stocking rate. I have learned that already with my tilapia. On my AP system I want the space utilised more efficiently. I believe the higher nutirent levels offered each cycle will increase growth and health in the plants (It does in the garden) without compromising fish health.


Will still have more water than needed....
Was discussing efficiencies..... Maximising plant growth... maximising bio-filtration..... and still maintaining fish health with well-cleaned water by getting ratios more balanced
If you read above you will see that my system is still buffered with extra matured water within the system..... in the sump. Earlier I said that I also have a flush tank....
The water in both will not be fully utilised each cycle. Larger sump than needed and Flush tank has flout positioned on a shelf above floor level. Plenty of buffering as water is mixed with the cycling...


More nutrients given per cycle... means more plant growth......means more filtration ...... means cleaner water......better GB to FT ratio ......


You are also assuming I would make the Fish Tank too small........ mine was far too big in my original design. Realised a need to adjust GB to FT ratio for better filtration and more plant growth. Easier for me to adjust the FT size down than make GBs bigger. And definitely cheaper to build!...

Ah yes, getting the fish tanks down to manageable size is reasonable. It is ok to have fish tanks large provided you only stock to the capacity of the grow beds but since you wish to enclose most of this in greenhouse, space is also a premium and sizing the fish tanks to the grow bed capacity is just fine. Especially since you also have the added buffer of water in sump and header tanks.

be careful with switching off pumps at night, especially if you think of increasing density
at night algae stop producing O2 which makes things worse
if you eliminate most splashing from high heights (cut high thin waterfalls into a succession of shallow wide ones) you will have better aeration and reduced noise.

frank

I'm starting another thread on nutreint levels and uptake, because it's worth discussing but I don't want to hijack the post.

On a related note, but more specific to the thread, I would have though FT > Sump with Pump > growbeds would not cause problems with solids accumulating. The solids would be fish poo and left over food, which would quickly break into tiny pieces or even completely dissolve once in the sump. Lots of splashing would assist this and also help with aeration.

This is just my theory, although I don't get anything accumulating in my sump, so it seems to work.

main problem with having the fish poo going into the sump (with pump) - pump WILL get very dirty as fish load is increased. This requires more maintenance to keep it clean - and will wear the pump out quicker.

Its not a major problem - my big system has the pumps in the "sump" - with all the solids.

Funnily enough I have only 50 trout for my 8000 litre tank, 2400 litres of growbeds, never had a reading of nitrates. Growth couldnt be better. If you have the space and the means of making everything a bit bigger at the start without affecting the plant growth, why not?

One of the common recurring answers in the "What would you change" threads are - bigger tanks. I wish I had of spent the time to make my 8000l tank even bigger. Its now the limiting factor in my system, and I cant really change it now.

Yes. DO is definitely to be considered.

I am not switching the system off at night because of noise - actually hadn't even thought of that! ....but to keep heat gained through the day banked instead of dissipating with night-time cycling. Tilapia thrive in temperatures even hotter than here. I had not thought about shallower and wider waterfalls rather than one high thin waterfall. A very good idea... thank you.

I want to use that lovely spiral waterwheel design to deliver oxygen day and night off of river power. It is perenial power so good to use. Have changed my design to allow for it. I cannot resist the idea! I can just see all those lovely little waterwheels turning....

I will be running a ditch at the side of the path with a little bamboo waterwheel that is connected to a spiral waterwheel in the Fish Pond that will turn and gulp down oxygen to deliver it by pipe to the bottom of the pond. I want to raise water from the river for farm irrigation anyway.... so decided to part divert some to turn my little waterwheels enroute to the irrigation destination.. Still trying to locate the bamboo... but know I will. I may have found the thin bamboo but also want the giant bamboo.... nurseries are telling me they cannot sell it here.. too invasive... me... I want invasive... it is so useful .....and rooting can be checked behind deep and high walling if needed. I do have river reeds that I can use but they are less sturdy and shorter lifespan when used. Good to practice on so long though. I will be building the ditch only 20cm wide so that not too much water is needed to get a good thrust from the water. The waterwheel will only be 15cm wide. Just before where the wheel is rigged I will be reducing the width of the ditch to get the venturi effect of increased water flow right where the wheel is turning just after - much like I see how the water speeds up between rocks as it flows in the river

When you say 2400 litres of growbeds are you taking 40% of growbed size to give estimate of water passing through OBO?

I have seen pics of your growth. Superb.

I chopped my size down to 7000 litres in the Pond and 3200 litres (water passing through being 40% of GB size) in the GB. Before it was 15,000 litres of Pond to 3,200 litres of GB. I am trying to get more in line with the recommended GB:FT ratio of 2:1

I will just built another unit when capacity is reached.

Building a second unit is great, has extra benefits for quarantine etc.

2400 litres of gravel in my large system, soon to be 12,400 litres. Which opens up a whole can of worms regarding my 8000 litre sump capacity.