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PostPosted: Aug 25th, '08, 21:28 
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While your biofiltration is establishing, water changes are your only real option (or consumption by duckweed etc - but I'd not rely on this at the stage you are, ie HSM). For that reason you want to restrict to the greatest degree possible the production of ammonia, ie keep the feed right down.

To make your ammonia less toxic, you could reduce your pH some, though make sure that you do this gradually if employing this option, and don't reduce it to a level where the cycling of your system (ie establishment of biofilter) suffers. I wouldn't go lower than 7 at this stage.

Do another water change adn monitor ammonia, pH and temp. What is the max temp you are getting to?


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PostPosted: Aug 25th, '08, 21:29 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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+1


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PostPosted: Aug 25th, '08, 21:49 
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max temp today was 17 deg, we've stopped feeding the fish. Were feeding them about 3/4 teaspoon a day of ground up fish food. We will change the water tomorrow. The fish size are around 30mm to 60mm. Should have bought a test kit sooner!


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PostPosted: Aug 25th, '08, 21:56 
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Is that water temp or air temp Kelly?


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PostPosted: Aug 25th, '08, 21:57 
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water temp


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PostPosted: Aug 25th, '08, 22:04 
Kelly wrote:
Just got in from work did a test of the water ( yes I did get hold of a decent test kit ) the results : nitrite 0.25, nitrate 0, ph 7.8 ammonia 2.


Consistent with what we suspected... exxcept the pH is way different from the 6.2 you posted from the other test kit...

You said "Temperature going from 12 to 16 throughout the day".... was that air or water temp Kelly??

Quote:
Put in 3 ppt salt today prior to testing (about 5 hrs ).Changed out about a 3rd of the water while siphoning out the marron poo yesterday. Had a visit today from an aquaculture guy with s/p in farm ponds. He spotted something that we over looked. Azola ? (don't know the spelling ) that a friend had given me saying that it was duck weed.He said that this takes oxygen out of the water and thinks that the roots are toxic to fish.


Salt will help.... if you had to "siphon out the marron poo" then I think you may have had an oxygen problem (and obviously an ammonia problem as well) from decomposition...

Had heard something about azolla before... if true that's lowered your DO further...

At 17 degrees and a pH of 7.8.... your ammonia tolerance (TAN) is only about 0.6.... you're reading 2.... fatal to fish....

If you're still reading that level of ammonia after the 33% water change... then it must have been off the scale before...

Retest, and if the ammonia is anywhere near 1 or above....then I'd do another 33% water change I think... to get it down further...

Here's the ammonia/pH chart for reference...
Attachment:
ammonia_526.jpg
ammonia_526.jpg [ 19.92 KiB | Viewed 2911 times ]


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PostPosted: Aug 25th, '08, 22:07 
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When we bought the fish from the fish farm he was shocked to hear we had galv tanks and said all the metals eg. lead in solder, iron, can eventually kill the fish. Are our fish in trouble again soon?


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PostPosted: Aug 25th, '08, 22:09 
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Hey Rupe - have you caught Steve's reading disease. Read from the last page mate :lol:


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PostPosted: Aug 25th, '08, 22:11 
The older style gal tanks were often soldered with a lead/tin??? solder....

There's been discussion as to possible affects from the zinc as well....

The newer tanks are lined with aquaplate and are OK...

Nah VB.... just trying to flick back and forth between here and an assignment... you guys are just to quick for me tonite....


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PostPosted: Aug 25th, '08, 22:16 
Anyway... what you on about big boy...

VB wrote:
As an example, at pH 7.8 and temp 16 degrees, the safe level of total ammonia (which is what your test kit would have measured) is 1.1 parts per million (your is 2ppm).


Read the chart... scan down the 15 degree line... not the 10 degree line .... :lol:


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PostPosted: Aug 25th, '08, 22:20 
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I wasn't using that chart Rupe - was using a more precise one, as published in the BYAP Magazine ;-)


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PostPosted: Aug 25th, '08, 22:26 
Now I'm going to have to go look.... like I haven't got enough going on... :wink:

Wow... big differences between the charts... now I'm going to have to look up the "real" one that they use at Natfish... :lol:


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PostPosted: Aug 25th, '08, 22:38 
Ok from my Natfish notes...

Un-ionesed ammonia (NH3) = [ (TANx%value from table) x 1.2 ] / 100

.. 2 x 1.84 x 1.2 / 100 = 0.044... or 4ppm...

5 ppm is fatal...

From the "Nessler" ammonia tables... result is 0.036.... 3.6 ppm.... boderline, start of fatalities according to their charts...


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PostPosted: Aug 25th, '08, 22:41 
Disregard...
Quote:
.. 2 x 1.84 x 1.2 / 100 = 0.044... or 4ppm...

5 ppm is fatal...

From the "Nessler" ammonia tables... result is 0.036.... 3.6 ppm.... boderline, start of fatalities according to their charts...


Should read...

Ok from my Natfish notes...

Un-ionesed ammonia (NH3) = [ (TANx%value from table) x 1.2 ] / 100

.. 2 x 1.84 x 1.2 / 100 = 0.044... or 0.04ppm...

0.05 ppm is fatal...

From the "Nessler" ammonia tables... result is 0.036.... 0.036ppm.... borderline, start of fatalities according to their charts...


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PostPosted: Aug 26th, '08, 10:32 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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About the metals. Yes the zinc in the galvanization on the tank can be bad for fish, especially at the lower (more acidic) pH. Also, zinc in the water can make copper more toxic. However, the marron or other shell fish are likely to be more affected by such things. Most people successfully using galvanized tanks, have lined them or they are coated in some way or another.


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