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PostPosted: Jan 14th, '08, 17:30 
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Catfish spines are not "venomous" as such, but are spines covered in all the usual stuff you find in the bottom of a creek, and so can lead to infections at puncture sites.

Stonefish are venomous, and you use hot water to denature the toxins. They have a sac at the base of the spine with the venom. If you step on them, the pressure will "inject" the venom into the wound.


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PostPosted: Jan 14th, '08, 19:19 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Not surprised the assassin knows all about poison ;-)


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PostPosted: Jan 14th, '08, 22:01 
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Jaymie, are you SURE?

i'm specifically talking about tandanus catfish


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PostPosted: Jan 14th, '08, 22:02 
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PostPosted: Jan 15th, '08, 12:24 
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steve wrote:
Jaymie, are you SURE?

i'm specifically talking about tandanus catfish


Yes, and so am I. They have very sharp spines, but no Venom.



Alright, after a further search, I have found one site that says they have venomous spines. :?
www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/fishweb/2171.html


Seriously, I have dissected catfish at university and there were no venom sacs on the fish. The spines are sharp and will give you a painful jab, but NO VENOM.

If anyone is interested there is a discussion forum on catfish
http://tandanuscatfish.6.forumer.com/index.php?

Oh yeah, freshwater stonefish or bullrouts also have venomous spines and the punctures are treated with heat.


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PostPosted: Jan 15th, '08, 12:46 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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So the really nasty puncture that hurts for days that you get if you handle flathead (ocean flathead) when we go fishing, is just nasty bacteria? There doesn' appear to be a venom sac, I had assumed that there was an excretion that covered the spine, and probably most of the fish that hurt you...


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PostPosted: Jan 15th, '08, 14:13 
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Do they need to have a venom sack to have a poisonous substance in, say, their slime. Possibly it is the strict use of venom here that is the issue. Regardless, good to avoid these spikes hey ;-)


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PostPosted: Jan 15th, '08, 14:20 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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VB this is what I was trying (ineloquently) to ask :-) Thanks


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PostPosted: Jan 15th, '08, 16:54 
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I that first link references the ratio of mucus to venom in the tandanus...........

dunno, i've certainly not disected any.............

but i've also read a blog where someone stuck by one did the hot water trick with great result...............

would expect general muck / slime to give a nice infection but not extreme pain almost instantly.


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PostPosted: Jan 15th, '08, 16:55 
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this may well be a case of me falling victim to one of my greatest pet hates, inet regurgitation..................


i want this resolved for my own piece of mind! ;)


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 Post subject: Re: Jim's planned system
PostPosted: Jan 16th, '08, 11:47 
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Hi Jim,

Just read your thread right through - great system! :)

Did I read right that you didn't do any gravel washing!? How muddy was the gravel to begin with? What's this mysterious "filter" you mentioned?

Great pics of the catfish!


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PostPosted: Jan 17th, '08, 10:23 
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Scottie,
yes- no gravel washing- water was VERY muddy for about 6 weeks. I couldn't see the bottom until the end of the 6 weeks . And didn't really become crystal clear for about another 2 weeks. The gravel still looks a bit dirty on the surface but lower down it appears to have been washed reasonably clean.
The filter is just a 12 litre mop bucket with lots of 6mm holes drilled in the bottom. It is about half filled with polyester(?) padding/wadding from spotlight. Like the thick filterwool you get in aquarium shops. All return water goes into the bucket which is suspended over the fish tank. I have so far changed the filterwool twice and it needs to be changed again about now.
KD -I try to flood the GBs to about half an inch below the surface of the gravel but the evaporation rate is so high that I usually top up every 2nd or 3d day and the GBs flood to just above the gravel for the next day or so.
Today I topped up but forgot the flow was happening for about 10 minutes and have had to readjust the float levels etc. A real pain. So I am going to add a 100 or 200 litre barrel to the system as a topup unit so that each top up can only be 100l.


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PostPosted: Jan 17th, '08, 12:58 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Jim,
F&F decided a tap timer would be good enough, after he did what he called a 10000% water change by forgetting the hose was on :-)


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PostPosted: Jan 17th, '08, 13:09 
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KP-be a bit hard to fit a tap timer to 40mm pipe- doable but perhaps more trouble than it is worth.
I also like the idea of actually being able to top up with a known amount of water in an idiot proof manner- my tiny/tidy mind likes to record such details.


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PostPosted: Jan 17th, '08, 13:15 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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yeah no probs, just spreading the solutions :-)

I agree, I want the same, preferably connected to my roof so it can fill in it's own time, be topped up with tap water and then dumped into the system.
Perhaps a 200L or bigger drum, with measurements to make the most of rainwater. Then release only the 100 you want into the system.

Or better yet, set a float valve at the low point in your sump, and any time it gets lower it automatically takes a touch more from your drum.


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