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PostPosted: Apr 4th, '08, 09:36 
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I've designed a google Sketch-Up 2D plan for a cover that I can cut out of a sheet of greenhouse film (like the redpath duratough4 - polyethylene) for a 6m diametre geodesic dome PVC greenhouse. I'd like to give this design a go because it means I can cut it out in one piece and just drop it over the frame and attach it to a timber frame around the base (not sure how I'm going to do the door yet :roll: ). This is a pic of the flat plan:

Image

(if you want to print it and cut it out it folds into a cool little paper dome :) )

The diagram is to scale and the dimensions can be changed in Sketch-Up depending on how big you want the dome. As it is now it has a height in the middle of three meters... If anyone wants a copy of the sketch-up files Pm me.

Anyway, you can see that the net pattern needs cutting out at some points. Has anyone had a go at joining this polyethylene film? I'm thinking a tape of some kind might be useful???


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PostPosted: Apr 4th, '08, 09:47 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Have you thought about not cutting it but just making some folds in the film?


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PostPosted: Apr 4th, '08, 12:52 
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You can get away with some folds but you can`t fold them all :wink:

Maybe the easiest way is to use 5 seperate cover sections with folds and taped joins. The 5 main sections can be taped together with the joints running mostly vertical. The pic is for a 5/9 dome, just ignore the row of triangles below the pentagons.

After some practice.. it is possible to heatseal long pieces of poly using a domestic iron and baking parchment (silicon stuff) to prevent it from sticking.
I would be a bit wary of pvc tube in high temperates, it soon loses its strength and permanently deforms.

Edit: I just noticed yours is a 2 frequency design not a 3 frequency as in the pic ..its early here. The same covering technique can be used though.


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PostPosted: Apr 4th, '08, 15:01 
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Yes this is a 2V dome - not 3V.

Using the iron is a good idea - plastic welding... hmmmmmm.

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I would be a bit wary of pvc tube in high temperates, it soon loses its strength and permanently deforms.


I had been reading of this and the word on the net is that if you use a film that has a UV filter then it preserves the integrity of the PVC. Initially I was going to make a tunnel house and this was an issue with them. I guess I could use galvanised pipe and flatten the ends to make connectors that way too...


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PostPosted: Apr 4th, '08, 15:24 
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Hair straightening tongs are quite effective for narrow widths and edges especially if they have digital temperature control..just don`t let the wife catch you :lol:


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PostPosted: Apr 4th, '08, 18:34 
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Hmmm. That's cool 8)


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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '08, 01:41 
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I used pvc glue to stick some plastic on a greenhouse once. Try a few methods and see what works best.


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PostPosted: Apr 6th, '08, 18:45 
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DanDMan wrote:
I used pvc glue to stick some plastic on a greenhouse once.


Do you mean that green (well the stuff i have is green :lol: ) solvent based PVC cement for joining pvc plumbing that melts the pvc temporaily then resets solid - like a plastic weld?


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PostPosted: Apr 6th, '08, 18:48 
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Hex wrote:
Hair straightening tongs are quite effective for narrow widths and edges ... just don`t let the wife catch you :lol:


Not worried about my wife... it's my daughter I'm scared of :shock:


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PostPosted: Apr 6th, '08, 23:54 
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Yes the solvent based pvc cement.

If a hair straightener would work that might be faster.


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PostPosted: Apr 7th, '08, 01:37 
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OzV, i can relate to that.. i have two teenage daughters :wink:

Don`t forget to use the baking parchment even with teflon coated plates. I made that mistake joining some 1000g black dpc together...devil of a job scraping the "tyre marks" off the plates :lol:


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