In the AP world you see many different styles of tanks used to hold fish. Other than the fish and that they hold water they tend to have one other thing in common. That is that they can and do work.
What follows is not holy writ that can not be ignored but rather a quick summary of how AQ tanks are designed and operated. While using this information will help you get better results for/from your fish with less work not using this information will not mean that your AP system will fail. It just won't be as good as it otherwise could be. AQ tanks are designed the way they are for very simple and very good reasons and the latest AQ tank design represent the best tank technology. Having said that there are sometimes good reasons for not using "best practice" designs or methods. For example IBCs make a cheap and effective tank for a small system but compared to a decent round tank they are pretty poor. Still for a small backyard system they may be the best choice. Also knowing how round tanks work can help you to make the most of an IBC as a tank.
Many of those tanks you see in the AP world are not as good as they could be*. Even if they are decent tanks the way they are installed or operated is also often not as good as they could be*. Which isn't to say that they don't or won't work its just that with a little knowledge from the experience of AQ they could be so much better. Even the vanted SLO design, while effectively removing the solids from many tanks in many systems, is pretty poor compared to the excellent results you can get with a decent AQ drain.
Round tanks have become the standard tank design throughout the recirculating aquaculture world. While many installations still use old designs it is widely excepted that the round tank is the best available tank within which to raise fish**. The reason for this is that it is very easy to maintain excellent water quality in a round tank and they are cheaper to run.
In Raceways and ponds water quality can be very variable. Excellent water next to the inlet, good water quality close to the inlet and the further you get from the inlet the worse it gets. Round tanks on the other hand tend to have very uniform water quality throughout the tank. Now as long as the tank is operated well then this mean excellent water quality at the inlet means pretty much you will have excellent water quality through out the tank. Of course bad water quality at the inlet means bad water quality every where but if you have a system where a round tank would have bad water quality then it would be even worse with a raceway.
The reason water quality is uniform in a round tank is because of the mixing action of the inlets, tank hydraulics and the drains.
Round tanks are installed so that a circular current is induced in the tank water. This current is called the rotating flow and it is created primarily by the water jetting into the tank from the inlet. Conveniently due to the friction between the water and the tank wall a second current is setup called a radial current****.
Attachment:
Rotating vs Radial currents.png
In standard***** AQ design it is not the rotating current you care about it is the radial current because that is the current that concentrates and transports the solids to the center of the tank. It is the radial current that travels along the floor of the tank towards the center in a spiral like path. The solids settle towards the bottom of the tank and are then concentrated towards the center of the tank as the spiral currents moving along the floor of the tank wind into the middle of the tank. They are then removed form the tank via a center drain.
In the original round tank design all the water was removed from a single center drain. The mark II design was the dual drain tank but since both drains were located in the center of the tank once the turn over rate reached a certain point the rotating and radial currents combined**** to create an area which was not fish friendly.
Attachment:
whirlpool.png
The mark III design is the Cornell Dual Drain tank. The picture above illustrates what happens when too much water goes out the center drain or drains. In the picture the tank has a side drain but the flow through the tank needs to be adjusted so the more water is flowing through the side drain. In a backyard setting you may not have enough flow to create this effect but if you do you can add a side drain which you can see in the side of the tank at the bottom of the picture. This doesn't have to be a box arrangement like in the photo it can just be another pipe through the wall of the tank.
The Cornell Dual Drain Tank has become the standard tank although you still see some people installing MII dual drain tanks. In a commercial AQ system only about 5%-10% of the total flow goes through the center drain. This is a major advantage in commercial AQ because that means that the solids are concentrated in a relatively small amount of flow. Which means smaller, cheaper filters which is a massive advantage of a dual drain tank. In a backyard system it most likely doesn't matter how much goes through the center versus the side (many people won't even need a side drain) as long as you are not creating a whirlpool. For people who feel the need for a SW or RFF by using a center drain they could use a much smaller vessel to create their SW or RFF. For those using GBs it doesn't really matter because all the flow should go through the beds anyway. If it doesn't it should go through a biofilter before going back to the FT.
Now if you don't have a round tank you can take the above on board and improve your system in a number of ways.
Say you have an IBC...
First thing to do is arrange the inlet so it jets the water along one side of the IBC or any other tank that is squarish for that matter. This is to setup the rotating flow. Commerical AQ inlets have a sparger on the inlet which is a pipe with a series of holes so that instead of one big jet there are a series of jets. This may be a simple vertical pipe so that there are jets the full depth of the tank or it may be a T-like arangement.
Attachment:
MCRW Spargers.png
Second you need a drain in the center of your tank. You can put this through the bottom or you can have it coming in from the top (I'll take some photos of mine tomorrow if people want to see them.)
These two things will improve the water quality in your IBC. It still won't be as good as in a AQ tank because they are designed to have a width to depth ratio of more than 3:1. The depth to width ratio of an IBC is more like 1:1 and this means that the length of the spiral current is rather short so it doesn't really give the solids much time to settle to the bottom. This means that a greater proportion of them will be caught in the upward moving center current rather than being caught by the drain.
*Not as good as they could be = crap or relatively*** crap.
** There are some exceptions to this because some fish are unusaul (flounder for example) and this is a new tank design developed by Cornell that is probably going to be the new standard tank design but it is still being commercialised and its really another round tank anyway.
*** relative to how good they could be.
****In reality the water is not moving in two currents but one but it is easier to understand what is happening if you break it down into 2 dimensions rather than trying to picture it in you head in three.
*****there is good evidence that some fish(salmonids in paticular) prefer rotating currents and benefit from the speed of the current being increased. While has been known for some time to my knowledge it is not standard practice to vary the speed of the current to suit the size of fish and maximise the benefit to the fish. Rather the minimum rotating current to induce a radial current to keep the tank clean is all that is done.