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 Post subject: DIY Filter
PostPosted: Feb 18th, '13, 22:56 
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Ok so I have watched this and really like the idea of this filter and maybe the bigger my system gets I will do this. however I was playing with the idea of doing a small scale version of this with a 5gal buck instead of a 50gal. First of do we think it would work, second would there be a better system for a small scale set up? I am NOW planning on doing an NFT system (as long as I can find some nft channels everyone wants to sell you the whole system. I wouldn't mind doing a DIY channels but as rupert pointed out hydro channels are easier to clean.) But I want a good filter system that will give as much surface area and give me the easiest way of cleaning it. Ok I think thats all. I am just excited to get going because I finally got my funding for my system (TAX RETURN!!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... 9xT5xzNu3s


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 Post subject: Re: DIY Filter
PostPosted: Feb 18th, '13, 23:52 
If you can't get hydro channels (se your message box)... then look for some rectangular PVC rainwater channel/downpipe... then drill your holes @200mm centres...

Your filter can't really be too big... but it can be too small... depends a bit on your feed rate/stocking density...

As long as it can filter out your solids before the NFT... then you're good to go... if it's a bit over capacity... no harm done...

But bear in mind... that ul;timately it will have to cope with the solids wastes... of xxx plate sized fish... (and the daily amount of feed)... :wink:


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 Post subject: Re: DIY Filter
PostPosted: Feb 19th, '13, 04:10 
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Ok so you are saying going 50gal filter system if I can. I wonder if a rubbermaid 25 gal bucket would hold its shape to maybe go half size. I just think a three stage 50 gal filter system might be over kill for now on a 300gal tank.

I am going to go DIY gutter system because might be a bit more then I wanted to do for build out with premade. Next part if using 2" baskets whats the smallest I can make the nft tubes?

Oh and stocking/feeding I am planning on keeping about 40ish fish twice a day feeding


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 Post subject: Re: DIY Filter
PostPosted: Feb 19th, '13, 07:23 
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Must admit, I am a bit puzzled at the lengths he went to in the video to get the bottom flat - why wouldn't you just move the hole off centre into a flat area where you CAN plumb in the drain?

You might like to check out Paul's DIY Swirl FIlter for solids removal. He has other designs he's used as well and I haven't seen any that require an oxy torch to make :D


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 Post subject: Re: DIY Filter
PostPosted: Feb 19th, '13, 07:31 
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Journeyman wrote:
why wouldn't you just move the hole off centre into a flat area where you CAN plumb in the drain?

Or just go through the side with your pipe angled down to the centre. :dontknow:


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 Post subject: Re: DIY Filter
PostPosted: Feb 19th, '13, 07:34 
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Yes, I know... I think it is one of those times when someone had an idea and all the problem solving went to making that idea work rather than stepping back and wondering if there might be another way...


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 Post subject: Re: DIY Filter
PostPosted: Feb 19th, '13, 07:45 
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Journeyman, I just tripped over Paul's radial flow filter. Have to admit that it's definitely an intriguing design. I may just do some modification of my swirl filter when I've got time and see how things go.

As far as flattening out the bottom of the barrels, I think the Urban Farming guys may have been swept up in creating the conical bottom for their filters. Personally, I'm not sure why they'd have to use cement in them either. I'm wondering if something like the Great Stuff expanding foam would have enough rigidity to it to support the cone and water weight.

Then again, as it really doesn't seem to be rocket surgery, if you really wanted a shaped bottom, you could always weld a cone into a barrel plumb it with either a Uniseal or bulkhead (depending on your preference) and back fill it with cement, Great Stuff, etc.


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 Post subject: Re: DIY Filter
PostPosted: Feb 19th, '13, 08:04 
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Ok journeyman that is WAY easier to do!!! OK well now I really want to go start this stuff I have been online shopping all day because it is freaking cold out today and we are about to get hit with "WINTER STORM Q" So I guess I will have to wait till I can dig my way out.


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 Post subject: Re: DIY Filter
PostPosted: Feb 19th, '13, 09:47 
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The "traditional" thinking with external filtration is to use a large material filter which feeds into a fine material filter which finally feeds into the bio-filter which is usually some sort of fluidised material (I used a cheap (homemade) option, but if I were to do this again, I'd recommend Kaldnes). If you really wanted to, you could use this triple filter system in lieu of any GBs/channels at all and run year 'round sans plants (but you'll have to find something useful to do with the waste, or just dump it) or use this as the primary filtration system for NFT/DWC systems, or if the weather is not conducive to pumping to GBs all year, etc. I found that Paul's radial flow filter design worked better for my system than a swirl filter. Filters themselves don't aid in the breakdown of the solid waste, they just localise collection points for further processing.

The question is though, do you really need external filters?

After my experimentation in a "traditional" BYAP system, I removed the triple filter and the system ran just as well without the additional filtration as with the filtration. There is a lot more work/maintenance which MUST be carried out when the filters are operating than without, and if you don't do the additional work there is a high(er) risk to the system. In the end, the addition of external filters added extra work, complexity, risks and cost, but didn't improve the performance over a properly stocked AP system with a media-filled GB as the primary filtration unit. The water clarity was marginally better with the additional external filtration, but fish don't mind and it's certainly not worth the extra effort IMHO. K.I.S.S.

If you're running NFT/DWC you need to remove all solids from the water, but if you have the resources it may be possible to employ media filled GBs as the primary filtration prior to the channels, giving you the required filtration and some extra growing space without adding too much to the mandatory workload. If you've only got a limited space for your system or a small system to start with, then dedicating a good chunk of the limited space to a filtration system seems odd to me; I'd be attempting to maximise the potential of that available space, maximising the GB surface area for plants and mineralisation, and GB depth for filtration commensurate with the system water capacity, then stocking fish at the appropriate density.


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 Post subject: Re: DIY Filter
PostPosted: Feb 19th, '13, 10:11 
Yep, if you're running a raft, or NFT... you needs some external filtration....

If you're really trying to run higher stocking densities... you probably do as well...

But for a normal, balanced stocking density... backyard system.... it's just not needed...


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 Post subject: Re: DIY Filter
PostPosted: Feb 19th, '13, 23:17 
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See I will have to go back out and re locate some info I had read to back what I an saying but from what I have read having a good three stage filter can help your water be more nutrient rich. By starting off with a swirl you can remove a large portion of the solid waste. Next having a mesh or " sponge" filter sifts the particles that are left to an even smaller size this filter also is starting the ammonia to nitrate conversion. The last one will take the fine partials and catch them let the decompose and get even smaller and then work it's way into the system. Now if you take the swirl run off and use it with compost tea you can spray a bit at the base of your plant directly that way you lose little resources. Now again I am speaking theory here because I have yet to do, but from what I have read this seems to be a pretty good system for dwc nft.

Ok and question asked above if using nft channels and are going to use 2in pots what's a good size for the channel?


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 Post subject: Re: DIY Filter
PostPosted: Feb 20th, '13, 08:16 
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CityRootsFarm wrote:
See I will have to go back out and re locate some info I had read to back what I an saying but from what I have read having a good three stage filter can help your water be more nutrient rich.

No, that is not correct. If you filter the solids from the water, then you're removing the substances which will break down (mineralise) to release trace elements and minerals into the water for the plants. If you capture the solids in a filter and do no more, the solids have the potential to break down anaerobically in the filters and produce all sorts of toxins and nasties which will kill your system. If you want to extract the goodness from the solids captured in your filtration, you need to remove the solids from the filters to a separate system (digester tank), provide lots of air for the aerobic decomposition and mineralisation of the waste material, then after a few days add the now nutrient-rich liquid back into the AP system; the remnants still contain a lot of nutrient and can be applied (with care) to a dirt garden.

If you want your water to be "more" nutrient rich ("more" is a relative term, more in relation to what?) then you're better off employing a filtration system which supports the mechanical capture of suspended solids and the mineralisation of those wastes in place in an aerobic manner, and which provides real-estate for colonisation by beneficial bacteria to process the ammonia and nitrites into the required nitrates; these filters are called growbeds. Worms can also be introduced to assist the mineralisation process, they also live in the filter media.

CityRootsFarm wrote:
By starting off with a swirl you can remove a large portion of the solid waste. Next having a mesh or " sponge" filter sifts the particles that are left to an even smaller size this filter also is starting the ammonia to nitrate conversion.

Again, no. The filters are not doing any ammonia conversion, except to say that the media in the filter will become colonised with beneficial bacteria which may do some ammonia processing, but the colonies will be disturbed every couple of days when you clean out the captured solids from the material to add to your digester.

If you're removing captured solids for subsequent processing then you have the opportunity to add some of the nutrient back into the system, but some of the nutrient will still go to "waste" as you spread it on a dirt garden or somewhere other than the AP system in which the solids were generated. If your third stage is a biofilter, then yes, ammonia processing can happen in there as this is not disturbed by the regular maintenance.

There is some good information around the place, here and elsewhere on the interweb about the mineralisation process, how it happens and the requirements for it to happen efficiently, including the ratio of surface area exposed to light and air to the quantity of feed given to fish.

CityRootsFarm wrote:
The last one will take the fine partials and catch them let the decompose and get even smaller and then work it's way into the system. Now if you take the swirl run off and use it with compost tea you can spray a bit at the base of your plant directly that way you lose little resources. Now again I am speaking theory here because I have yet to do, but from what I have read this seems to be a pretty good system for dwc nft.

If you're going to employ DWC/NFT then the water in which the plant roots are suspended need to be well oxygenated and clean of suspended solids which could accumulate on the roots and starve the plant. If you're removing all the solids and not processing them, you're removing vital nutrients and you will have to supplement your system with minerals and trace elements from another source (usually out of a bottle); or you can process the solids and return a good proportion of the nutrients removed back into the system (but as it's not 100% efficient, you might still have to supplement)

One of the many keys to success in an AP system is to only add good things to the system and only ever take the bad things out of the system. If you're adding badness or removing goodness, then you're system is less likely to be successful. The only good things we do remove are the harvests.

CityRootsFarm wrote:
Ok and question asked above if using nft channels and are going to use 2in pots what's a good size for the channel?

Forget where I got this titbit of information, but a basic starting rule of thumb is:-
for 2" (5cm) pots:
width => twice pot width, 4" (10cm), roots will grow out the side of the pots, so allow them some room, use tapered pots else the roots will impede the removal of the pots from the channel.
depth => aim for twice pot depth, roots will grow down from the bottom of the pot, depth will depend on the plants being grown and the voracity of the root growth.
space between pots => 3-4 times pot diameter, 6-8" (15-20cm), depending on the canopy of the produce and also the root length. (I'd aim for 20cm between pot centres, which will leave about 15cm between the edges of the pots)


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 Post subject: Re: DIY Filter
PostPosted: Feb 20th, '13, 12:02 
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Ok so searching through here most everyone if they do a filter do a swirl filter with a aerobic digester. Really my last stage is a biodigester as well just with the smallest of the soilds. Barrel filled with beads and constant air flow into it. Basically my filter is the one they are talking about in this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfR9nDsv ... _embedded#! About 4:50 is when they talk about it. I get what you are saying about using a grow bed and filtering the water there but the thing I am not sure of is the water quality for a NFT system is it clear of enough soilds. If not you will still have to filter your system which is already what I am planning on doing.

I am planning on taking the waste let off from the swirl filter and digesting it to a more useful fertilizer. Then putting it back more directly to the plants. I am just not sure why you think a filter system isn't the way to go with an NFT system?

Also thank you for the info about the sizing big help!


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