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PostPosted: Jul 22nd, '08, 17:13 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Basically that, Yes Cyara :wink:


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PostPosted: Sep 4th, '08, 02:22 
Bordering on Legend
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hello

i started modifying my standpipes into barrel siphons and i've stumbled into some trouble

my syphoning action doesn't break because of the "tidal waves" that are generated from the gravel's resistance. i tried using bigger air hoses(8mm) but i had no luck, the water level rises because of the wave just in the moment when there should be air sucked through the air hose not water again...must find a reliable air source :D
now my next move is to get a bigger outside hose, the one that keeps the gravel away from the bell siphon, i used 125mm and the water level in that hose moves down faster then the rest of the w.level in the GB, ~100L gets sucked in 30s...so now i got 140mm inner diameter(perforated drainage hose) and i hope i'll overcome the difference in water potential between the GB and the drainage part

any other suggestion that helped you braking the siphoning action?

have a good one :cheers:


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PostPosted: Sep 4th, '08, 07:41 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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You could try raising the air tube by about 25mm (1") and see if that will correct it - I put larger sized gravel on the base of my GBs so that water could move into the clear pipe area a little quicker


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PostPosted: Sep 4th, '08, 18:14 
Bordering on Legend
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hey ell!
did raise it, was the same thing, did thought on the bigger gravel thing but haven't got into that yet, would prefere to solve the prob with bigger outer pipe
i also tried to brake the water column by making bigger holes on the bell's intake- that didn't work either
i will also try to put the air tube on the side of the bell not on the cover of the bell, the hole for the tube i mean

else the bigger gravel will follow :drunken:


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PostPosted: Sep 4th, '08, 18:20 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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:wink:


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PostPosted: Sep 4th, '08, 18:42 
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gotta say the work and refinement done on autosiphons on this forum has been outstanding. Les as has been a real pioneer.

remember my crappy picture explaining the effect taken in my bathroom? LOL


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PostPosted: Sep 4th, '08, 19:52 
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Take it out of the gutter Steve :roll:


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PostPosted: Sep 4th, '08, 19:56 
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apparently autosiphons are not as easy to manage as I thought at first

why don't you take a closer look at the design I posted of a "DIY automatic float ebb and flow valve" which achieves the same results without any of the issues:
http://www.backyardaquaponics.com/forum ... f=8&t=3920

water speed either of influx or of drain affect it in no way.

it is based on two floats: one connected to the gasket (in the drawings it is a hollow ball that combines both functions, float and gasket) and a second one that pulls up the whole system.
the first float, once pulled up by the second float, floats up to join the second float to keep the drain open until the growbed is empty.
simple and efficient and easy to build.

these have been functioning without problems or maintenance for over three months now on my system (see, I do have a system in progress) with only a level difference of 3-5 cm !!! (easily adjustable level difference).

I will try to concoct an Excel spreadsheet for dimensioning according to drain size and system weight (floats + gasket + axis + nuts etc...) as those are the determining factors.

greetings

frank


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PostPosted: Sep 4th, '08, 20:06 
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Frank - I think your design has merit, but I like the simplicity and relatively low space requirement of the autosiphon. I don't seem to have too many troubles getting them to work and know all the little things that can be done to adjust (if necessary). But where inflow or outflow is such that an autosiphon is not the best option, then perhaps your design is a good option. I do think though it could require a bit more maintenance than an autosiphon. Any roots venturing into the drain area would probably hold the toilet ball up and resultin a less than satisfactory seal.


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PostPosted: Sep 4th, '08, 20:09 
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Quote:
water speed either of influx or of drain affect it in no way.


correction: if drain is too fast, the valve could be "sucked" shut before the growbed is completely empty.
but I can solve that by slightly adapting the design

Actually that is solved already in the last drawing (valve outside the growbed) where the draining flow will actually help in keeping the valve up and open until the growbed is drained completely.

I will someday post some drawings and instructions on how to easily manufacture your own floats "to measure" for this system.

greetings

Frank


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PostPosted: Sep 4th, '08, 20:10 
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Also - in Aus I'm not sure we have toilet balls as such. We use a different type of cistern flushing method.


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PostPosted: Sep 4th, '08, 20:26 
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you have a point there, Veggie Boy, thanks
my system doesn't have long or strong roots yet :lol:
and I have very little experience in how fast roots grow (so how much maintenance would be needed)

with the valve outside the growbed (which is what I would recommend) that should be less of an issue if any

I imagine if the roots are long and prolific there would be a problem with siphons too?
but I might be wrong (that might be wishful thinking :oops: )

frank


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PostPosted: Sep 4th, '08, 20:28 
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I agree that the add on type would be less likely to have problems. The roots can get into the drain area fairly quickly - nothing that can't be prevented with some weekly maintenance though.


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PostPosted: Sep 4th, '08, 20:33 
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as explained, you don't need the toilet balls, though they are handy
but they have drawbacks like the length of available axes
any float connected to a gasket will achieve the same

frank


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PostPosted: Sep 5th, '08, 02:04 
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I haven't made a pipe-in-pipe siphon in awhile, but next time I wanted to try cutting a pattern of vertical slots in the bottom of the outer pipe, hoping to break the siphon without using an air tube.


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Siphon with slots.jpg
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