Backyard Aquaponics
A place to discuss aquaponics

heh, gas axing tin has never worked very well for me... perhaps this is because I only have a cutter suited for cutting 10mm+ thicknesses.

I buy tools all the time and usually break them. For wood and some metal jobs I like the carba tec stuff. Its pretty.
http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/store_ ... pAodLD-7qQ

Bought more drill bits today at the local hardware shop and they asked if I had a drill sharpner. Never needed one. Don't have them long enough for them to go blunt. Buggers snap all the time. And the darn cord on my drill is faulty. How hard is it for them to tighten up screws when they put them together.

Drills should almost never break, even the cheap ones (excepting the ultra thin) what exactly are you doing to these bits to bust em?
Problem with the cheapies is hardness and propensity to go blunt. Breakage is less common, albeit more probable than on more expensive brands.

I built a shop.
The drill bits I got today were $160 ish. Not cheap. Am happy with the tec gun I got a few years ago. 4000 + tec's and screws and the thing keeps going. If only I can get a chuck for it.

What make Duff, I take it, it is not a makita or metabo

RYOBI. But this was before they sold and started to make cheap crap. Think they only supply places like B's now. Seems these days if you want to find a tool that will last you have to go to garage sales and look for anything made more than 15 years ago. I've got a makita router that my brother got over 10 years ago and you can't kill it either.

Have you ever tried the carbide tipped hole saws by Lenox? They are just wonderful for plastic, don't gum up at all with melted PE, PolyPro, or PVC, even a 4" hole size. Just use one saw for plastics and have another for wood & metal. The plastic cutting one will stay sharp forever, the other will wear dull after a while.

I have one of the old Ryobi tek guns (about 15 years now) and I agree, it is bullet proof, is this the one you mean? If so what do you mean by chuck, they don't have a chuck. They have an adjustable nose cone to stop screws penetrating further than you wish but that is it. If you mean that you would like a jaobs style chuck to fit it so you can use it for drilling, it won't work as the gun has the inbuilt clutch that does not engage without downward force, this is no good for drilling holes as you loose all control over drilling depth and speed.

I have not tried them but the carbide tips will work equally well in timber, just not good for steel. I have two lennox hardened steel ones that are great but won't be buying any more in the near future as I found a complete unused set of Mole holesaws for $15 at a market

Clutch is only a problem after you finish drilling the hole and want to get the drill back out. Have a set of drill bits that fit in the tec gun and its great to drill holes. Bugger to get it back out. PVC holes for the standpipe guard are fast and easy. A small chuck would just save having to have special drill bits.

If you are only wanting to drill soft materials like plastic I reckon you would be better just buying a $30 cheapy drill than being frustrated by a tek gun with a chuck.

before i got started on the AP my woman got me a new 18v drill combo. its a sears which i not like their tools much but this is a very good drill driver. it came with a vacuum, small pad sander and best hand held light i have ever had

plus 2 batteries and charger. price 79 dollars

has quick chuck and is a jacobs which surprised me

all of this was cheaper than replacement battery for my dewalt

I think these are an AP necessity...

It looks like a toy over there

only 23 tonnes
pushes mtr wide trees over with a tooth of the bucket
easy to get sidetracked and clean up the neighbourhood
What a joy idea that would be...

Show off....

Recently did a series of white counter tops...
Had to use some sand from here,
took 3 hrs to dig down and get a BIG barrow (.1cu mtr) of sand...
Jaye pulls 6CU in 5 mins