Backyard Aquaponics
A place to discuss aquaponics

Thanks KP.

I think any info is usefull even if I don't use it directly. Knowing more about whats going on is always helpful. Knowing the details can assist when getting a tradeperson to do work and ensure I don't get ripped off. As an ADULT I am glad to be able to make the decision on my own.

thanks to KP for the info, and thanks to chappo for the reminder that 240V is not something to play with.

I recently wired one up up for my system. I got one identical to yours except different chassis colours. (mine is blue and yellow)
It cost me about $80 but I needed one pretty quickly so I couldn't afford to shop around.

I used a IP67 Polycarbonate enclosure and two waterproof cable glands. Then mounted a flush mount female mains plug into the large flat side of the enclosure.

I bought a 5 m extension cord and cut off the female end. Save about 10 cm of the extension cord and remove the inner wires. The green/yellow, brown and blue (OR red and black depending on where it was made *cough* China)

I fed it through one of the cable glands. The Cable from the float switch through the other. Strip back about 1 cm of insulation on each wire to expose the copper.
Strip back the insulation on the three spare cable on both ends. Good trick is to cut the NON-EARTH wires shorter so if anything pulls out the earth will break last.

Attach the short red or brown wire to the wire terminal for Active (A) on the mains socket. The Blue or black to Neutral (N). And the green/yellow to Earth (E).
Make sure no copper is exposed or visible. Trim back or fold over the copper if nessesary. Tighten the screws and pull on them to test for strength...

Now using some screw caps (one ended screw terminal caps) start by twisting the earth wires together, then screw on the cap. Same with the neutral wires.
So the earth and neutral wires from the extension cord is connected straight to the socket.

Now this is where I ran into a problem, the wire colours for NO setup where wrong in the instructions. But that just could have been my case. Attach the Active (Brown or Red)
wire to the common wire of the float switch using the screw caps again. Now the active lead attached to your socket needs to be attached to the NO (normally open) wire on the float switch.

Once this is done, CHECK ALL connections. Visually and physically. Check to see if any may pull out or come loose. Also check that the earth and neutral wires are NOT in contact with any active wires. Tighten the cable glands to ensure that they are sealed. Close the enclosure and properly secure.

Test the switch by plugging in the switch and attaching a lamp or a fan to the switch. Test you have the connections right. On when up and off when down.

DO NOT open the box with anything plugged in... Just to be safe.

The enclosure in my setup sits in a covered area so it doesn't get too wet. If yours may get water on it then replace the panel mount socket with a third cable gland and a small section of the female end of the extension cord.

I will get a picture of it if you would like...

there is also heatshrink available with a glue substance on the inner. wouldn't suggest that this makes it waterproof, but would add protection from accidental splash.

then again a tiny enclosure with some IP67 cable glands would be better.

Also regarding the dodgy colouring, it would always be prudent to use a ohm meter to double check the C NO and NC contacts.

again guys, if you have the LEAST BIT of hesitation on if you should be doing this, then DONT.

RCD's are also well advised, you can get them incorporated in extension leads.

That's good Kuda ,, appreciated.
I just wish I lived closer ,, I'd wire it for free for if I wasn't so far away.

Please be carefull , remember the little ones ( children) often get around these things.

Anyone who doesn't have an RCD is taking a very silly risk.

Even pointy eared people say " live long and prosper".

Skygazer please take note of the above statement by Tim, your drawing as supplied with the switch looks a little odd, as the NO wiring and the NC wiring seem to have a different common, judging by the way the switch is drawn in each image.

If it doesn't work, using a multimeter you can ascertain the correct wires to wire up to, or you can simply try trial and error on each of the 3 combinations, there is no risk involved here to the switch if you wire it wrong, it will just work, or not work.