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PostPosted: Oct 22nd, '08, 20:54 
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No probs, Got crook and had the first two sickies in 8 years,
Next Time,.. :wink:


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PostPosted: Oct 22nd, '08, 20:55 
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two options. get 12V coils or run the valve in the shed next to the compressor and run TWO air lines to the chooks.


see, now the distance of power from the chooks is gonna bring the wiper motor back into play.


Nah - should be able to organise something to run 12volts. Pretty keen on the pneumatic option now steve - provided we (read - you lot who seem to know what you are talking about :lol:) can get it worked out.

Was wondering a couple of things about some of what we've said:

1. If I'm using a 12 volt Supercheap auto type pump to extend the ram - how will the pump know when to turn off. Will I hae to place a switch that activates when the door becomes fully open or something?

2. Will these valves leak at all - even the slightest of leaks would mean the door would slowly lower over the day.

3. The option we were speaking of where we had air in a cylinder to fuel the door over 20 or 30 days, would require another valve to release and then shut off supply of air from the cylinder - therefore I think having the 12volt air pump hooked into the ram (which could be switched on and off as appropriate) would be a better option.

Lots of other questions I'm sure - just can't think about them right now :roll:


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PostPosted: Oct 22nd, '08, 20:58 
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Aluminium fabrication - that's gotta be handy. So you would know the answer to this question then - I assume aluminium sheet is commonly available and would not be overly expensive for the amount I need?


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PostPosted: Oct 22nd, '08, 21:03 
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Just went and looked - the chook doors on the commercial units cover a hole of about 20x30cm, so yes the 50x50 estimate was a bit large :roll:


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PostPosted: Oct 22nd, '08, 21:15 
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VB when i said supercheap compressor i mean one of the low cost 240v air compressor jobbies.

or use the one you have if you have one. it has a storage tank, a pressure cut out and will last. tick tick tick. using a tyre pumper upperer is asking for trouble


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PostPosted: Oct 22nd, '08, 21:21 
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The system, when set up right, (Which it will be with what we've got) will be done in such a way that the air will be constantly supplying force to the cylinder (ram) in the intended direction, even if there is a small leak the compressor will kick in and boost pressure back up.

The solonoid however will not need to be activated for more than a second as once its job is done the valve will lock into the desired position. This will save on coil damage and reduce battery drain to almost nothing.

Once the "Directional Control Valve" ("DCV") (Yes,I've got some) gets a signal from the valve shown earlier,it will "latch" and remember what it has to do, until it is told to do otherwise, Then, when it is told to do otherwise, it will remember that!

So a gate that is told to be closed will do so at about 100psi pressure,
and when it is told to be open it will do just that, and hold open at 100psi!
Speed to actuate as (I said earlier) is adjustable.

And lastly,
Ive got a bit of plate just the size you're after, 4-5 mm thick, (water damaged so not pretty) and I was serious about the door frame :wink: Just dont fob me off when I say my fish are sick :lol:


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PostPosted: Oct 22nd, '08, 21:36 
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Jeez Dicko - you're too kind. Man this is gonna be a way kool door openner. I envisage the door frame just being something that contains the door as it slides up and down and also has a lip at the bottom so that once it is down it is less likely that something can get a claw under it and try and force it up???

On the compressor - there have been so many posts and idea developments that it cn be easy to get confused.

Dicko was originally speaking of using a cheapish 12 volt pump to power the ram. I know we later spoke about the 240volt compressor, but the downside of this is the distance between the shed and the chook house and the need to run a line. It is certainly doable - if there is no better option :-/. My shed is at least 20 metres from the chook door and a lot of this is across a concrete skirt at the front of the shed. Then there was the issue of the 240 volt solenoid valve. Not sure I am keen on your idea of running 2 lines from the shed Steve - would be more likely to try and convert to 12volt or have to source a different valve.

So dicko - when you spoke of the compressor in the last post - did you mean the 240volt job in the shed. If so, is there another viable option that would allow it to be run on 12 volts at the chook house?


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PostPosted: Oct 22nd, '08, 21:38 
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and mate - regarding sick fish, you've come to the right place - much aclaimed author of 'Healthy Fish are Happy Fish' :lol: :oops:

I goota get to bed before I turn into a pumpkin. Lots of crap going through head now, so will be hard to sleep :lol:.

Will look forward to continuing this discussion at a later time. I really appreciate everybodies help with this - what a great community :flower:


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PostPosted: Oct 22nd, '08, 21:46 
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i envisage the chook door as something out of the SAW movies :)


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PostPosted: Oct 22nd, '08, 22:13 
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If I build this door, Its going to have a "No Entry" sign on one side and a "No Exit" sign on the other!


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PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '08, 04:13 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Dicko wrote:
V.B. I was wondering when the bug would bite! :D

There really is nothing you cant do with Pneumatics :wink:
And then there is the benefit that it will not electricute you or burn down the house if you don't get it right the first time :cheers:

F&F, What can you tell me about the valve?
I can clearly see three ports, but it looks like there might be more, hopefully five, is this the case?
Is there a schematic or a number on the valve body anywhere?

Dicko

Hi dicko 4 ports 1 in 1 exaust i each to top and bottom of cylinder


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PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '08, 04:48 
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unnecessarily over complicating things TMO, guys
all pneumatic systems need electricity (especially if you want it timed or light sensor activated)
so you need electricity
and compressed air

electrical systems don't need compressed air
so you only need electricity

back to the window screen motor
or to the wiper motor

frank


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PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '08, 05:34 
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Frank - you are fogetting the Kool factor ;-)


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PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '08, 06:02 
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In all seriousness though - I've had a chance to have a good think about this overnight (while sleeping :lol:) and unless:

I can run the system 12volts, (from a 7AH battery), including having a suitable pump located at the chicken pen and running off the 12v, then it is not going to be viable for me to run this type of system. Otherwise it would cost me $100 just in air hoze from the shed, not to mention the fact that it would have to be buried and go the long way around to avoid the cocnrete (so maybe more than $100 worth). That's just the start.

Otherwise I may have to revert to the windscreen motor type system - and beg Dicko to still fix me up a door :blackeye: .

Having said this - still keen on the hydraulic if can operate viably on 12volts :D

The DCV sounds very cool Dicko.


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PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '08, 10:04 
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V.B.
Just a little something to help you think :lol:

As I have said in other threads, I'm not much of a drawer,
much easier to make it and post pics :roll:

this may help you see the big picture! :cheers:

Dicko.


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File comment: "The chicken chopper"
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