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PostPosted: Jan 13th, '15, 20:43 
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I do like the idea of a window and led lights. I already feel like everything that can leak is trying... Murphy is slick with water! I know LED lights would be easy but the window would be a lot harder then an underwater camera.
heard :think:
I'm installing a window and LEDS as well, I keep returning to, I wish I bought a bigger piece. It is 12 inches by 24 inches three quarters of an inch thick. the shipping was like 25 bucks on a $50 acrylic panel. maybe even a little more. That was from US plastics.The one I pined for was 24x24 and of course cost more than twice as much both for shipping and the product. Thanks for helping keep me grounded in reality.
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PostPosted: Jan 14th, '15, 01:47 
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A few people here have done it very well. BCasey did an awesome job on his, but for excellent documentation check Tom's Greenhouse IBC which is the only reason at all I think I could maybe pull it off myself.

Leaks: 3 of 4 leaky spots have stopped. I'm trying another layer of epoxy. (Ron & Chris toilet ring wax is a product not an adhesive and only comes in 3"+ locally at least... did I misunderstand something?)

Flow testing: I let it all run over night and total water loss is unmeasurable! Visually, however, I can still see my one little drip continues.

Cycling: I looked at the local hardware store and found ammonia with lemon and only a single brand (did not purchase). I don't mind testing with goldfish, but I want to attempt at least some fishless cycling at first to understand how much ammonia is needed before fish, and how much it changes as we add our first few goldfish into the tank. Still trying to wrap my mind around it all we are creating the conditions for our bacteria with ammonia, but where do they (The bacteria) come from? The air? The IBC? Do they crawl up the sides? Do I have some in there already from exposure to my body and the ground when I put it all together? Meanwhile I need to find some fragrance free ammonia to get this started.


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PostPosted: Jan 14th, '15, 02:33 
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This lady, Janis, has my bacteria






And this guy, 2HRLunch, explains how this pertains to the fresh water master test kit. And perhaps why I can't find ammonia without lemon?





The other method, adding cheap fish expecting a possible die off, introduces bacteria through the fish decomposing, and their initial natural wastes.

Hummonia is looking more and more acceptable.

Also the idea that all of these types of ammonia could invite entirely different bacteria cultures into the system depending on the source of type of ammonia we use the create the initial environment seems to be a likely scenario.


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PostPosted: Jan 14th, '15, 02:58 
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Pond,

If you are holding off on building a MT. Then are you currently going to use the RFF "waste" to help supercharge your dirt gardens?


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PostPosted: Jan 14th, '15, 11:35 
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What about adding a fish emulsion. Will that not do the same thing?


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PostPosted: Jan 14th, '15, 20:47 
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My understanding is the bacteria are naturally occurring, but you can speed things along by inoculating with some water/gravel from an existing system. The wax ring is soft enough(may need to leave in the sun for a bit) that you could break off a small chunk and smash it into the leaking area. I've never used it for that, but it seems like it would work. I'm assuming Ron has?? In my aquarium experience, I always started the cycle with cheap fish, then after cycling, added the more expensive fish. I'll do the same on my RAS, add a few hundred goldies throughout and then monitor until it cycles before adding tilapia. I will keep stocking rates lowish until I'm sure everything is running smoothly. Hopefully, by the time the warm weather arrives, I'll be ready to go hard. I never used ammonia, but obviously, it's a legit option. To me, I'm always impatient, so even 1" feeder gold fish gave me a sense of accomplishment.lol


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PostPosted: Jan 14th, '15, 21:29 
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Leaks: 3 of 4 leaky spots have stopped. I'm trying another layer of epoxy.
I'm very impressed with Butyl tape http://www.myersrv.com/shop/rv-parts/38-1467/Dicor-Corp/Butyl-Tape-381467?gclid=CMXCs9XJk8MCFeY-MgodFFIARg It probably isn't precisely applicable in the circumstance you're working with, but the stuff sticks to anything and it never dries out, indeed it doesn't dry at all. The way it is applied is squishing it between two surfaces and bolting it together. The stuff is made for portholes on boats, weatherproofing RV windows, I used it on our new round face shower enclosure when I read other DIYers couldn't seal the chrome frame to the plastic shower base. No leaks.
Brian


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PostPosted: Jan 15th, '15, 04:25 
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Pond,

Try dollar general. 99c sent free ammonia.


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PostPosted: Jan 15th, '15, 06:38 
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Can vouch for the butyl tape. I used rolls of it on my fish house and it works well.


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PostPosted: Jan 15th, '15, 08:08 
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So there are no nasties to irritate the fish in it?


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PostPosted: Jan 15th, '15, 10:01 
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I'm not 100% sure, but if you were using it on the outside of pipes as a small leak stopper, I can't imagine it could do any harm.


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PostPosted: Jan 16th, '15, 00:23 
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I have used the toilet ring wax. It never dries out either, and is Waay cheaper than butyl tape. It can melt in the sun however. It was a trick I learned from long range cruisers. It will stop leaks on boats in an emergency, but still be easy to remove when real repairs can be made.


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PostPosted: Jan 16th, '15, 22:04 
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I have used the toilet ring wax. It never dries out either, and is Waay cheaper than butyl tape. It can melt in the sun however. It was a trick I learned from long range cruisers. It will stop leaks on boats in an emergency, but still be easy to remove when real repairs can be made.
smart. Me, I've made so many mistakes since I began McGivering at the early age of 13 nearly five decades ago, you'd think I'd be utterly brilliant by now :laughing3: In one of those situations I was cleaning my antique rifle on the workbench three decades ago when the gun came out of the leather lined vise which I put it in to "protect" it. The stock cracked much to my dismay, especially because of the Birdseye walnut grain was irreplaceable. I glued it with my favorite goo at the time: Hot glue, that was a mistake. Doh! I set the stock in the window and when I got home from work the stock was in two pieces again except for a fine coating of waxy goo. Doh! Now we use butyl tape on antennae cable connections on towers in extreme weather conditions. A new trick we figured out is not to put the butyl tape directly on the fittings or we'd never get it off. A layer of electricians tape first and last makes all the difference. Sorry Pond I didn't mean to hijack, sometimes I get going on one of my "stories" and can't stop.


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PostPosted: Jan 16th, '15, 22:36 
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Probably wouldn't work too well on my "hot tin roof" either. :D


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PostPosted: Jan 17th, '15, 02:13 
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Yea, toilet ring wax would be the wrong thing for your roof. It is great for sealing a pesky leak in an ap system. By the time it melts away, bioslime will have filled the area anyway.


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