Backyard Aquaponics
A place to discuss aquaponics

Well that's worrying, i shall re-check levels soon as im home tonight and start a gradual water change soon after.

Darren- the pond is filled with tap water and the API 5ml tubes are ised to take tests.

I shall slet you know how it goes tonight. Thanks for the info once again!

one of thise situations where a miss reading can be a better outcome
see what the readings are when you get home.

the links and background in that thead I pointed to at least help you be aware and prepare.

the tap water will be around 7.4-7.6 in most SOR areas.
I have dropped to pH 6 in systems that were struggling to meet efficient nitrification before.

water changes with our pretty good mains water is a better option than mucking around with additives.
and much more effective over shorter time period.

Have you cycled your system properly ?

can you double check your pH ? Are you using rainwater or scheme (mains) water ?


BTW - are you using the proper API test tubes ?





Hay mate

i have checked the levels again tonight. The PH is now at 6.5 which is a tad low but acceptable from what i understand. Phosphate and Nitrite are still at 0. while Ammonia is at 1.0

I have done a partial water change tonight and will monitor again tomorrow.

On a side note the fish seem more active as they swim away when i open the lid. Yet there was still food floating from this morning.

6.5 is definitely a better place to be than 5.
Ammonia and nitrites will tend to push pH readings down if you have a lot of it.
so it is going to be an indicator for you.

You are going to basically have to follow the process PQuigley went down.
so worth reading through his thread > viewtopic.php?f=1&t=28000

#1 - you need to cut back on the food and make sure your aeration etc is good.
if in doubt at any time you need to run your pump 24/7 to keep water circulating.
you also need to get you tank salted to at least 1ppt, and if fish look stressed may have to go to 2 or 3ppt.

the other thing is to be prepared to do water changes - as you are in Perth you just need to leave for 24 hours to gas off (best option), at a pinch and an emergency you can probably go direct from tap direct to pond as long as you use a spray to aerate the hose water.

I would start doing water changes now and try and get the pH back to around 7 with the tap water.
This will pull your ammonia down as well. May have to do it at around 50-100L/day.
So may be worth getting a blue drum or a couple plastic camping water drums/jerry cans etc.

hopefully you should be in the clear just after Xmas.

well today im back at 7.5-8 PH and Ammonia down to .25 and .5 so the water change and no food worked.

Is it un-usual for them not to be eating at all than?

also the pumps run 24/7 as it is due to my set up. if they turn off the pond has enough weight behind it that the water half empty's and over fills my sump.

i will add a touch more salt to be sure in the mean time

>> Is it unusual for them not to be eating at all than?

lot of pH change, probably some temp fluctuations and ammonia etc will stress them quite a bit.
so you just need to focus on trying to keep things steady for them and they will settle down.
may take couple days.

as things like ammonia and nitrites build up they get a bit of irritation in the gills etc.
that's where the salt comes in.

you just have to ride with it and do your best to keep system settings as stable as you can.
Try and avoid too many changes/variation in the water.

don't go too high with your pH because that is not so good either....
ammonia toxicity is worse at high pH and warm temperatures...

table here...viewtopic.php?f=12&t=17374

Barramundi possibly aren't the best starting fish especially when cycling with fish. Jump in the deep end why don't ya!
One of the big mistakes is fish feeding I've noticed. There should never be uneaten food in the tank. I'll chuck a couple of pellets into my tanks and if they don't smash them I put the feed away and do a level check. If alls ok I'll try again the next day. I've not fed the fish for weeks on end on occasions, let them burn off some fat. Having said that I can only share experience with rt's and sp's. I wouldn't expect much different with barra but I may be wrong.
What is the water temperature?

Yehh sink or swim on this one, nothing like a challenge though

The temp is at 23/24 (still waiting for perths summer to kick in)

Well tha ks for the info about feeding. Takes a load off my mind knowing they can easily go days without food if required.

Well, Perths summer kicked in, hope your're happy I've still got a tank of trout....

You mentioned on another thread that you have considered removing the barra and heating in an IBC seperately to the system during winter. Make sure you do your homework on that one.

Heating is very similar to cooling, any gains are mostly lost through the grow beds, tank walls, water surface etc etc. Not many have successfully achieved either in the past. But it can be done if set up correctly.

Id forget about trying to heat your AP system, so that leaves you with your idea of doing it separately to the system. If you choose an IBC for this you will need to turn it into a RAS - this will require additional drums, filtration, bio-media, piping, insulation, heating etc and this will all need to be indoors, whether its in your house or shed.

This will give you an idea what your up against viewtopic.php?f=10&t=27457

So it comes down to whether your prepared to spend more, have the space and have the time. RAS is also difficult to manage for even the more experienced people. I haven't seen or read of any that are not in continual battle with nitrites and ammonia levels.

Each to there own but if you want to take the easy/safe track eat your barra at the end of summer and get some trout or SP.

thanks for that ill read up on that topic.