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DrLuke
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Posted: Feb 6th, '13, 11:36 |
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| In need of a life |
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Joined: Oct 26th, '11, 10:29 Posts: 1708 Gender:
Are you human?: super
Location: Australia, NSW, Sydney
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It can take upto six weeks or more, depending on water temps.
But the rest is incorrect.
There are two main ways to cycle: fishless, or with fish
In the first case you add controlled amounts of ammonia source. E.g. Carlie carp, clear ammonia, humonia (aged urine), urea. And monitor your levels until you see the ammonia, then nitrite peak and drop, followed by "sky rocket" of nitrates. You then add fish.
This approach has advantage in that you don't risk the fish, and is highly controlled.
The second way is to add a couple of small or sacrificial fish, feed them lightly, then again watch your levels. This can be slightly more difficult to control and you may need to slowly ramp up ur fish numbers to get a good cycle.
Do a search for fishless cycling on the forum search.
As far as plants go....you can stick them in anytime and supplement with seasol (seaweed emulsion) etc until the fish are producing enough load to supply sufficient amounts on nitrates.
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RupertofOZ
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Posted: Feb 8th, '13, 10:25 |
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RupertofOZ
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Posted: Feb 8th, '13, 11:08 |
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As a general guide Anthony... we equate 20-25 fish for each 500L of media....
So your one grow bed of the dimensions you gave could support 20-25 fish...
I'd err on the side of caution with a new system.... and you jsut don't need a lot of fish to grow plants anyway...
I think I ended up with about 25 - 30 fish powering the system in the thread...
I've posted another system... that has 6 grow beds of the same size.... powered by 100 fish...
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RupertofOZ
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Posted: Feb 8th, '13, 21:33 |
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Essentially no... the NFT channels, or DWc rafts for that matter.... don't provide any significant nitrification...
But in fact DWC raft beds... and NFT... both require solids pre-filtering... otherwise any soilds adhere to the roots... and cause root rot....
Which means... in home, or small hobby farm systems... you must employ some solids removal filtration....
Most do so.. by using grow beds.... some by external soldis filtration... swirl filters... radial flow filters... or other filters...
As scale increases... particular with higher stocking densities.. you start to move into aquaculture style filters.. moving bed bio-filters... drum filters etc....
And so you should.. if progressing to a "commercial" system... particularly if optimising the fish part of the "aquaponics"...
The only other alternative... is to remain with low stocking densities... and the "friendlies" DWC raft model is one such...
Using media beds... "hybrid" systems... with raised stocking levels... is just a nonsense model... that defies all very well research aquaculture principles... and is potentially disasterous in my opinion...
You might get away with for a while... but eventually... it'll either compromise/kill your fish... or meddle with your water parameters... to the point where your plant stocks begin to have pthium and other issues... a commercial disaster...
The current "hybrid" model being hawked around... has been slapped together from backyard pieces.. and backyard knowledge... by a backyarder....
The idea that it represents a successful modular "model"... is IMO... unfounded... and unproven... to show any commercial value...
The idea that questions of scale... can be overcome... by duplicating an "unprofitable".. unproven module... is jsut as questionable...
If the module is unprofitable.. and/or flawed... duplicating it xxx times... just means you end up with xxx number of unprofitable/flawed modules...
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RupertofOZ
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Posted: Feb 9th, '13, 09:43 |
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Lettuce will take 4-6 weeks (from seedling)... depending on environment/season...
Temperature transfer from NFT can be issue... depending on channel length, number of channels, flow rates, temperature etc...
As most fish prefer warmer water for growth... the heat transfer can be beneficial....
Head height will determine your flow rate... as far as a sump goes, there's no optimum "height".... the sump needs to be below the height of the grow beds/NFT.... and be able to hold the volume of water that might drain to it if the pump(s) were off....
Shallower sumps/tanks... and/or smaller volumes of water.... heat and cool quicker...
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