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 Post subject: Cucumber vine training
PostPosted: Jun 30th, '07, 14:48 
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Cucumber is a vigorous plant and with training can be pushed to yield significantly more fruit. One of the methods of accomplishing this is to train it up a string to a horizontal wire. Another method is arc training (which I am not describing now), but this can take up significant space. Yield is significantly higher though.

Ideally the string should be about 2.5 meters high, but this will work with more or less. The horizontal wire should be a meter in length or slightly greater for each plant.
-Allow the string to be slightly loose, as slack will be required to wind the string around the vine as it climbs, but anchoring it somehow is a good idea (though not essential)

1. Starting with a seedling planted at the base of the string, gently wind the vine around the string. Try to get one full rotation of the string around each inter-node (space between leaf nodes).
Take care not to put excessive stress on the vine, but ensure that at least 5 inter-nodes are wound fully to support the weight of the cucumbers in -the beginning.
-On the journey up the string, leave every third fruit and remove the rest. This will allow enough leaves to be on the plant proportional to the number of fruit. A general rule is to ensure 3 leaves for every cucumber.
-Also remove any suckers (grow tips) on the way up except for the main leader. This gives all energy to the leader and it will climb quickly.

2. This is important: Once the vine reaches the wire ALLOW suckers to grow. Train the leader in one direction on the wire (whichever is not stressing the vine, and train one of the suckers in the other. Try to pick one closest to the T intersect, leaving the other ones to grow. If the one is damaged from training (they are fairly delicate) you have a backup on the leader.
-wrap both vines twice around the wire as they grow to give the vine support, then sending them down.
-Choose another sucker on each vine (at the top) and wind each of them twice around the wire.
-Remove unused suckers on first vine intersections

3. Once each of the first two vine reaches about 75cm from the ground (or less perhaps in a raised growbed), pinch off the growing tip.

4. Harvest cukes as they become desirable size; if there are several larger cukes growing at the bottom of a vine, remove younger fruit higher up to give more nutrition to where it's needed.
-Continue to remove emerging fruit and suckers from the first vertical vine up the center, you want all energy for the hanging vines.
-Also remove any suckers below the wire on the hanging vines to keep growth in the fruit.

5. Once fruit is picked from the first inner pair of vines, begin removing the vine, being considerate of how many leaves are on the plant compared to number of fruit (3 to 1), with the aim of removing the whole vine below the wire.
-Removing non-producing vines promotes new growth, but removing too many leaves at once will result in fruit abortion on newer vines.
-Also remove any necrotic leaves (usually from the older leaves on the base vine)

6. Continue this process until the plant is no longer productive (a fair while), you can loop back over the vine on the wire to keep horizontal reach down.

Here is some useful literature pertaining to cucumbers:

-Reading the Cucumber plant
http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department ... ll/opp4556

-Nutrient Disorders
http://www.agric.nsw.gov.au/reader/7388

-Early Crop management
http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department ... ll/opp4594
(Veggieboy) if you have not solved your stem splitting problem yet here is another potential reason on this page:
If the root zone goes above 21C-22C it can result in stem splitting.

A (very) basic image to show the layout visually (excluding leaves):


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Cuke stringing.jpg
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jun 30th, '07, 15:07 
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Thanks my friend .. I want to try cucumbers this spring and summer.

Kewl!


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PostPosted: Jun 30th, '07, 18:41 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Thanks for that Raimo, good to read those links


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(Veggieboy) if you have not solved your stem splitting problem yet here is another potential reason on this page:
If the root zone goes above 21C-22C it can result in stem splitting.


that could well be the problem with the fish water temp getting up to 30c in summer, must watch out for it when I put some cukes in


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PostPosted: Jun 30th, '07, 19:07 
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Excellent method Raimo, can’t wait to try it this summer.


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PostPosted: Jun 30th, '07, 19:11 
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Great stuff Hayden.

Quote:
(Veggieboy) if you have not solved your stem splitting problem yet here is another potential reason on this page:
If the root zone goes above 21C-22C it can result in stem splitting.


Ended up pulling the plant out because it got hit badly by catterpillers and stuff. Got a few cucumbers off it - but they were pretty pathetic. I may nto bother with cucumbers in my AP at all, given that normally I have a bush or 2 in the ground that when producing heavilly gives me literally hundreds of cucumbers. I used to take gags of 50+ to work and put one on every persons table.


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PostPosted: Jun 30th, '07, 19:15 
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David C wrote:
Excellent method Raimo, can’t wait to try it this summer.


Yeah im looking forward to trying this and the tomato pruning too, cheers


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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '07, 03:38 
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raimiuso,
If the arc training meathod you mentioned takes to long to explain, could you point us to something/someone where we could see how it works?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '07, 11:02 
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great stuff Ramiuso thanks for all your efforts :)


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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '07, 12:55 
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I am hoping to see some progress shots of everyone who is going to try this method. Sounds good.


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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '07, 16:25 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Fiz, I've got 3 tom plants which are flowering now, just waiting for the fruit and was gonna throw up some pics and get the experts to advise if I was following instructions correctly..."P"atience my man :lol:

:oops: stuffed that up, will give the cukes a go when they get growing....now if you would like to know about the toms......


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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '07, 18:37 
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bring it on LKB. I do remember seeing something in your 42 pages about some toms climbing up to your GH cross members. I recently spent a good couple of weeks going through your system thread.


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PostPosted: Jul 10th, '07, 15:17 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Tks Fizzy...controlled chaos in the GH at present :roll:


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PostPosted: May 19th, '08, 08:45 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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My experience with training cucumbers this last summer, is that they grow UP at every opportunity.
How is it exactly, you're meant to train them down to 75cm from the ground?
Am I meant to have strings from the top wire that I continually twist them around? I simply can't see how I'd make them 'hang' as described...
The idea looks like it'll work if only I can get over this hurdle.

I had great fruit, but I let it sucker whenever it wanted, and possibly had too many fruit for leaves. I had a number of fruit aborted, and also unfertilised, until I started doing it manually. Next summer... I guess...


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: May 19th, '08, 14:40 
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[quote="veggie boy"] I used to take gags of 50+ to work and put one on every persons table.[/quote]

haha.. I wonder if they thought the cucumber fairy had been


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PostPosted: May 19th, '08, 16:44 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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The way I interpret the drawing is that you let the main stem of the cucumber grow up until it reaches the height you want, then train it to grow laterally Kuda...never got around to trying this method yet, but will in the spring


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