Tidy away...........i'm not much for tidy, happy for you to d it.
Nope, i have no reference bible, just google and very specific searches then a keen eye for results
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| Ants Attacking My Chillies http://byap.backyardmagazines.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1259 |
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| Author: | jtjf_1 [ Feb 28th, '07, 20:54 ] |
| Post subject: | Ants Attacking My Chillies |
Hey I have these red ants that keep attacking my chillie plants. They look to be harvesting aphids maybe. I have tried garlic wiht no effect what else can i try? JT |
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| Author: | janethesselberth [ Feb 28th, '07, 21:17 ] |
| Post subject: | |
The aphids will respond to Insecticidal soap or Diatomaceous Earth. If the ants are there for the aphids, they will abate when there are no more aphids. I have no success getting rid of ants completely. |
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| Author: | gnash06 [ Mar 1st, '07, 04:38 ] |
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If the ants are not attacking the actual plants( only the aphids ) why not leave them, they are doing a good job for you. |
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| Author: | Jaymie [ Mar 1st, '07, 04:55 ] |
| Post subject: | |
but ants Farm aphids, they only eat enough and keep the population going |
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| Author: | aquamad [ Mar 1st, '07, 05:29 ] |
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I had aphoids on chillis before too, and only got rid of most of the ants once the aphids had been delt with |
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| Author: | njh [ Mar 1st, '07, 05:40 ] |
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If your growbeds are off the ground you might use ant-tac or similar to form an anti-anty ante chamber. |
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| Author: | steve [ Mar 1st, '07, 15:11 ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: but ants Farm aphids, they only eat enough and keep the population going
Dang ants using sustainable practices. |
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| Author: | veggie boy [ Mar 1st, '07, 17:39 ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ants got into my grow-bed despite me putting grease around each of the legs (stuff dried up too much in the heat). I have heaps that live in there - but thankfully they have caused no problem as yet. The issue of ants stopping moisture getting to roots because of the burrows they dig taking soil away from the roots is not an issue with F&D gravel beds :-). One ant remedy that I have had some success with since Muzza posted about it early on in the piece is as follows: - crush some yeast into fine powder - mix yeast with honey until you get a stiff paste that can be rolled into balls between fingers - put some balls where ants are active The ants eat the past - when they then drink the yeast activates in their guts and they explode. This has worked very well inside the house and too my huge surprise also rid the ants from my worm farm (at which time I then put new grease around the worm farm legs). This recipe has not yet worked for my grow-bed - but the conditions may not have been favourable in that it has rained soon after I laid the bait. |
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| Author: | jtjf_1 [ Mar 1st, '07, 21:07 ] |
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Thanks For all your Imput. I will try to find some DE but might be a bit hard here as i don;t know what it is called in indonesian. The yeast and honey sounds like a good trick. And it will work around the house so i am off to try that. JT |
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| Author: | RupertofOZ [ Mar 1st, '07, 21:34 ] |
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From the Green Harvest site ..... Quote: Use boric acid/ sugar solution bait as a least-toxic control. To make the bait mix 3 cups of water, 1 cup sugar and 4 level teaspoons of boric acid. Half fill a small screw-topped jar with cotton wool, saturate with bait, screw the lids on tightly, seal with adhesive tape, pierce several small holes in the lid to allow the ants access but prevent removal by larger animals. Keep away from children and pets. This takes a few weeks to wipe out a colony but is more effective than using highly toxic pesticides that only kill the foraging ants, not the colony. Some ants will prefer a mint jelly or peanut butter bait.
Haven't tried it myself .... |
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| Author: | steve [ Mar 1st, '07, 21:44 ] |
| Post subject: | |
good one rupe! Looked up toxicity of boric acid to fish. was listed as practically non toxic LC50 is over 1000mg/lt (one ppt) This works out to 1kg per 1000L So no worreis if the ant munch on it and then go and die in the gravel. |
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| Author: | RupertofOZ [ Mar 1st, '07, 21:47 ] |
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Meant to ask before Steve.... Where is this Toxicity reference.... What is the "LC" |
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| Author: | steve [ Mar 1st, '07, 21:54 ] |
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http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/borictech.pdf LD50 stand for Lethal dose the 50 means that at this dose 50% of the test subjects died. Is usually stated in mg/kg body weight LC50 stands for lethal concentration, usually used for gases in air or in the case of fish concentration in water in ppm. Again the 50 represents a 50% mortality in test subjects. Jaymie, maybe you could include this in the glossary? |
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| Author: | RupertofOZ [ Mar 1st, '07, 22:04 ] |
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Quote: Jamie (sic), maybe you could include this in the glossary?
Good idea I reckon... So that site is the bible you use for reference Steve... Hope you don't mind ... I tidied up the Url for others .... Pesticide Fact Sheets |
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| Author: | steve [ Mar 1st, '07, 22:07 ] |
| Post subject: | |
Tidy away...........i'm not much for tidy, happy for you to d it. Nope, i have no reference bible, just google and very specific searches then a keen eye for results
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